Thread: Master/slave switch

If I bought one of these controllers from you:
. Which Electrical Testing Authority would test it and certify it for use in Australia?
. What guarantees would you offer?
. How would I and my insurers know that you have the wherewithal to cover any claims or liabilities that might arise from its use or failure?

Originally Posted by woodie one

If I bought one of these controllers from you:
. Which Electrical Testing Authority would test it and certify it for use in Australia?
. What guarantees would you offer?
. How would I and my insurers know that you have the wherewithal to cover any claims or liabilities that might arise from its use or failure?
.

1/ None would be required, it is a non-declared article under Electricity (Consumer Safety) Act 2004 and its Regulations.
2/ Probably standard 12 month warranty, if i ever manufactured and sold them. Given the interest so far, it's totally a non starter.
3/ Now you're being no fun at all.

Originally Posted by TP1

Hi Benja, I was contemplating the Jaycar Unit and for my benefit ( and others I'm sure) could you please explain the problem with this unit a little more? Are you saying that 10 amps at 240V is not enough? By way of explanation, I previously found this thread and posts #6 and 7 described how it would be wired. Will that work?

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f13/sa...tching-123425/

OK, the master input is 'stepped' for different sensitivities, so you need to select which one you will use, and it's pretty much fixed (without extra parts and work involved in fitting a selector switch). To me that in itself is a limitation.
Standard flex cables (1.5mm2) are rated to 15A maximum, or 3450W. If you want to use it for a 4000W input device, you need to go to 20A, and bigger cabling. The cabling on the jaycar unit is only 1mm2, so i have no idea how they got it certified.
The Jaycar unit is only rated to switch 6A at 230V, or 1380W for the slave device. Using it to switch any more than that will require a relay. These ratings are for purely resistive loads only, not motor starts (inductive), which may be several times higher.

Basically, the Jaycar unit is good if you want a limited input range, and are only going to slave a unit under 6A. If you want more options, or characteristics outside this range, you will need more parts, and more skills to connect it all up.
The wiring instructions you refer to in the previous post are correct, however somewhere along the line, people have misread the specifications of this device. The slave device can switch 10A, but only at 24V. At 230V, it's only good for 6A. Pretty much useless for any kind of dust extraction, even a small vacuum cleaner.

Hi Benjamin

Did you ever go ahead with this? I'm certainly interested in a remote switching option.

Cheers David A


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

Hi,
interested to follow this discussion. First, Jaycar's 2013 catalogue starts at part AA-0214 so I believe they've discontinued the 230v master/slave device. Where these devices can be found is now on power plug boards for computers - so when the main computer unit is powered on/off, the other things like screens, printers, etc are powered on/off

My own history with these devices is that I have a WAP (now Nilfisk) workshop vacuum cleaner with an inbuilt 230v power outlet for light tools (e.g. sanders, jigsaw, router) and this works well - makes indoor sanding easy with v.little dust so I don't bother with dustsheets. Max power tool size is 1400W and there is a timer so when I turn off the tool, the vacuum cleaner runs for another 6 seconds before shutting off. This feature is on other workshop cleaners, e.g. Festool, large size Ryobi, large size Makita.

Paul

Looks like most of these are now targeted at audio visual and PCs. There is a Kambrook remote that has three outlets but limited capacity. So it would be good to have something more purpose built.

been looking at doing the same thing.

even though the jaycar one is unavailable, there is this one from germany with a 16a rating.
Kemo M103N Master Slave Switch 230 V AC 400 V AC Made IN Germany | eBay

there's also diy schematics and more info here for a 2 circuit plan (ie lee valley and ivac equivalent products)... not sure if the parts have the same numbers in australia? can anyone confirm if this would work for au?

https://wiki.jasig.org/display/~edalquist/Vacuum+Toggle

Screen Shot 2014-01-03 at 8.00.29 am.png