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Thread: Master/slave switch
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22nd May 2012, 09:03 PM #1
Master/slave switch
I am looking at designing and building a proper master slave switch, and was wondering if anyone is interested in a product like this since there don't seem to be any 240V models available in Australia for a reasonable price.
Firstly, I am an electrical engineer and electrician, as well as a wood and metal worker, so there will be no issues with safe design and robust construction. Basic design is for a controller with 2x 10A inputs and outputs (to be supplied from separate circuits), one for the master device and one for the slave. Any current flow from the master device (above a certain amount like 200W) will operate a relay to connect supply to the secondary device (such as a dust extractor). Secondary device will have a re-settable thermal circuit breaker (like the ones in power boards). The separate supplies ensures both devices can operate up to 10A (2300W) each. There will also be a time delay on the slave device switching off. From a quick look around, components alone are looking at being about $70. I know remote control outlets are available for about $30, but I reckon these are a PITA, because they need you to be able to find the remote, and feed it with batteries etc.
Design will be able to accommodate tool ratings up to 20A, but 15 and 20 circuitry is a LOT more expensive than 10A.
I have a few questions for potential users.
1/ What load would you want to connect to each device (master/slave)? Amps/watts/HP is fine.
2/ What time delay would be suitable? Would you like it to be variable?
3/ Would you like standard 10A (or 15, or 20) plugs and sockets, or something with adapters from the device to the appliance?
4/ How much cable would be good? Inputs (from 2 supplies), master, slave. WOuld you prefer a custom built version made to your requirements (custom price would apply somewhat, depending on cable lengths)
5/ Would you like to be able to control more than 1 device, or trigger from more than one via a selector switch on the switch?
6/ How much would you be willing to pay? Realistically.
I will keep working on the design, look forward to hearing some responses.
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22nd May 2012, 09:36 PM #2
$36ish at Jaycar, ready made unit, cat. AA0212
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22nd May 2012, 10:54 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Readily available on Ebay and elsewhere as well. Usually a search for " smart power board" will give you a range of choices
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23rd May 2012, 06:11 PM #4
Not really the same thing. Both the suggested alternatives are rated for resistive load only. While the power board is self contained, once you connect a 2000W primary tool, you can only connect a 3-400W secondary, and they are not rated for industrial/commercial use. The Jaycar module still requires fitting and wiring (by a licenced sparky) and again is only rated for a single 6A (1400W) secondary device. Plus the input is hardwired based on the input load sensitivity, so it's pretty useless across a wide range of tools.
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23rd May 2012, 06:43 PM #5.
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One thing that I think all the commercial units lack is the ability to set a delay between the "off operation" of any units that are connected to it
A lot of people are using these things to auto switch dust extractors, and dust makers like routers and table saws.
While the principle of switching the dust maker and the dust collector on at the same time makes sense, switching them off at the same time is basically nonsense. The dust maker chucks a heap of invisible dust into a shed and the dust collector should be left ON for at least 10 or maybe twenty minutes after the dust maker is turned off so that the invisible dust can be collected. Even a delay of 5 minutes is worth having for small power tools.
So a really useful feature would be a timer that can be adjusted so that after the dust maker is turned off the dust collector stays on for the preset time. The timer should go for at least 30 minutes. something like a clothes dryer timer should be OK.
Since dust makers are liable to be up to 15A and decent dust extractors are also in the same ball park I don't know how you would cope with this.
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23rd May 2012, 08:19 PM #6
Thanks BobL
Delay timer should be easy, probably add $10 to the parts list, and can have anything from 0-60 minutes in increments no worries. Maybe not on the basic model, but a certainty on the platinum!
The issue with 15A devices is fine, the design is universal for loads up to 20A, but will require different parts such as relay and in/outputs (more expensive obviously- have you priced a 20A plug/socket lately??) and 2 separate supplies.
Thanks for the feedback though, the more ideas the better at this stage.
Cheers
Benja
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23rd May 2012, 08:30 PM #7
How clever are you prepared to make it?
I'm guessing the major use here would be say 3 items where either on turns on one item.
thicknesser, bandsaw and lathe with a dust collector as the item turned on.
If you went clever inside the power board style unit you could have jumpers that set the units to be either master or slave item. Maybe some people only have 2 input items and 2 output items to be turned on when either of the inputs are used.
But a one to one unit would be a pain. I understand that the device has 2 power leads (say 1 metre long). Would not be of use to anyone who has mutiple master devices, no-one wants to unplug and plug in another master device.
But for a multi input and possibly more than one output device I'm interested.
What about a timer style thing that I plug my lathe into and another for the dust collector gets its own receiving timer, Wireless transmitter and receiver units. You then buy senders and receivers to plug items into with say up to 3 channels.
Peter
EDIT: second thought you only need one output to plug in a normal powerboard. But multi inputs would be nice.
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23rd May 2012, 08:38 PM #8
[QUOTE=_fly_;1493236]How clever are you prepared to make it?
Clever = expensive. Up to you really.
I'm guessing the major use here would be say 3 items where either on turns on one item.
thicknesser, bandsaw and lathe with a dust collector as the item turned on.
Easily done, the master socket could just have a powerboard attached and providing the output rating isnt exceeded, it will be fine. Will probably install a circuit breaker to be sure.
If you went clever inside the power board style unit you could have jumpers that set the units to be either master or slave item. Maybe some people only have 2 input items and 2 output items to be turned on when either of the inputs are used.
Again, powerboard/double adapter on the output is easiest, and the output is limited by a CB.
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23rd May 2012, 08:51 PM #9.
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I forgot to add that even though the timer is a good idea I probably would use something like this. When I turn on my dust extractor it basically stays on till I leave the shed and I cannot usually predict when that will be.
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23rd May 2012, 09:01 PM #10
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23rd May 2012, 09:29 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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I'm not sure that we are talking about the same devices. The one in the link below allows one appliance to consume up to 4000 watts and it will switch on a further 2400 watt (10A) load.
Master/Slave Switcher 230V - Jaycar Electronics
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23rd May 2012, 10:48 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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There is also this unit sold by a Swedish woodwork tooling company.
Master/Slave Switch, 230V, 1-Phase
The Jaycar unit is made in Germany and is used by woodworkers in Germany and the UK for the purpose described. Does need wiring though.
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23rd May 2012, 11:47 PM #13
Sorry, incorrect, the full specs are here
http://shop.aaaa-electronic.de/WebRo.../M103/m103.pdf
and they clearly state the input switch can sense from a 250W to 4000W (250-1000, 1000-2000 and 2000-4000 hardwired) input load, and can drive 10A at 24V or 6A at 230V. That's why I am not planning on using one.
Besides, a 4000W input device would need to be supplied from a 20A outlet.
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23rd May 2012, 11:53 PM #14
Astrodog, it is going to run off 2 separate circuits, the cables will marshal into the the one controller, but be fed from different supplies and also drive different devices.
Wireless is an option, but the modules require separate ELV power supplies, and additional circuitry, probably in the vicinity of another $50. Cheap 433MHz wireless modules are susceptible to RF interference, bluetooth is not good over long distances, and 2.4MHz and better modules are pricey, when a cable can do it for a lot better price and reliability.
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23rd May 2012, 11:59 PM #15
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