Thread: Multi tool

I have been having the same problem. When the sanding disk/pad gets hot the glue then melts and separation then occurs. I have found that it does not happen when I use the white aluminium oxide disks/pads it only seems to happen with the brown silicon carbide pads.

In my opinion the silicon carbide seems to generate more heat than the aluminium oxide and this is what melts the glue holding the two pieces together.

Try using a different pad.

I have found that the aluminium oxide gives a good cut when used.

All the best.

Router

I wouldn't have thought these tools particularly suited to sanding, especially finishing. I don't own one but have had the use of one (Fein Multimaster) on numerous occasions in a variety of guises.

The action of the tool is radial: it oscillates in a circular fashion a couple of degrees or so each way from centre. This would surely allow abrasive grits to gouge semicircular grooves in the substrate, in the same manner as an orbital makes circular grooves, and a Festo Duplex sander makes linear grooves. Where I've found the tool best suited was in fine flush cutting, grooving in ceramics and shallow plunge cutting. These actions use the edge of the cutting tool, at maximum moment of the arc described. With a flat abrasive pad surely the outer rim only does the work, with diminishing effectiveness the closer one is to the axis of rotation: conversely, the further away from the axis the greater the arc, the greater the abrasion and the greater the friction and heat generated.

By its very (orbital) action, a standard delta sander is compromised in evenly and effectively accessing corners and angles, but it should nevertheless be more effective than a radial (or semi-radial) multi-tool, which would surely want to continually "kick away" from concave edges and corners. I've often found it necessary to actually angle the pad away from flush in order to avoid internal corner rounding. This obviously created intense localised frictional heating of the paper's corners & edges. A delicate touch is usually required here: is it the same for a radial tool?

In all other instances a random orbit sander is a much more forgiving and effective finishing tool.

Originally Posted by Ratbag

I wouldn't have thought these tools particularly suited to sanding, especially finishing. I don't own one but have had the use of one (Fein Multimaster) on numerous occasions in a variety of guises.

The action of the tool is radial: it oscillates in a circular fashion a couple of degrees or so each way from centre. This would surely allow abrasive grits to gouge semicircular grooves in the substrate, in the same manner as an orbital makes circular grooves, and a Festo Duplex sander makes linear grooves. Where I've found the tool best suited was in fine flush cutting, grooving in ceramics and shallow plunge cutting. These actions use the edge of the cutting tool, at maximum moment of the arc described. With a flat abrasive pad surely the outer rim only does the work, with diminishing effectiveness the closer one is to the axis of rotation: conversely, the further away from the axis the greater the arc, the greater the abrasion and the greater the friction and heat generated.

By its very (orbital) action, a standard delta sander is compromised in evenly and effectively accessing corners and angles, but it should nevertheless be more effective than a radial (or semi-radial) multi-tool, which would surely want to continually "kick away" from concave edges and corners. I've often found it necessary to actually angle the pad away from flush in order to avoid internal corner rounding. This obviously created intense localised frictional heating of the paper's corners & edges. A delicate touch is usually required here: is it the same for a radial tool?

In all other instances a random orbit sander is a much more forgiving and effective finishing tool.

I use mine exclusively for sanding and get no gouge semicircular grooves what so ever but I do start at 400 grit then move onto 600 grit. Best finishing sander I've got or ever used, I even use it with Danish oil at 400 grit with no probs.

SB

I use mine for sanding too.. goes nicely into corners and hard to reach places... and also have same problem with brown sanding paper delaminating.. It seems like sanding same small area generates a lot of heat as I've managed to pretty much melt the pad as well .. (blame myself for that one.. was too stubborn and in a bit of rush trying to take off fair bit of epoxy from one spot...)
I actually never had swirl marks...regardless of how much pressure i apply...

Originally Posted by Prle77

I use mine for sanding too.. goes nicely into corners and hard to reach places... and also have same problem with brown sanding paper delaminating.. It seems like sanding same small area generates a lot of heat as I've managed to pretty much melt the pad as well .. (blame myself for that one.. was too stubborn and in a bit of rush trying to take off fair bit of epoxy from one spot...)
I actually never had swirl marks...regardless of how much pressure i apply...

Perhaps it' she fact I use the Fein sanding disk plate that makes the difference as it's circular at 100mm diameter with dust holes. I use either Bosh or the sandman's sanding disks and never had a problem. Maybe it is run at too high a speed?

SB