Thread: Multimeter - Which One Would You Recommend

Like all tools, you get what you pay for...

I buggered up my old good Fluke & bought a cheaper Fluke.
It is a piece of junk & I hate it, it never works when I need it to.

I have several meters in various tool kits, there is an $80 one I got from Dick Smith about 6 years ago that has been the best of the lot.
I can't remember the model number & it is still in the workshop in my Cairns house so I can't check straight away.
On the strenght of it being not to bad for the price, I bought another one from Dick Smith, (different model) & it was piece of junk too.

Take 150 bucks down to Jaycar or Altronics and go from there. Granted, they're not going to stand up to a Fluke, but you'll get something reasonable for about that mark. :brew:

I just have replaced mine as some toe -rag made of with the old one, I bought a real cheapy digital.
I don't know if its because its digital and I'm not used to it or its just a POS but I hate it.
With a meter at least I could see whats going on even when its flickering a bit but with digital the readout doesn't stabilise enough to read properly A PITA.

After some extensive testing we moved from Flukes to Proteks about 5 years in our undergraduate labs and they have been just as accurate and reliable as the Flukes, despite the monotonous thrashing they get from students.

I have my own Protek 506 (only just now out of date) which is great as a data logger - ie can hook to a computer and monitor stuff. The RRP on these is about $200 but you can pick these up for about $150 if you shop around and expect the price to drop even more as the replacement 6500 fills it's shoes.

I still have my old moving coil meter, it is 31 years old this year.
Good meter but too big to cart around.

Originally Posted by BobL

..we moved from Flukes to Proteks
....I have my own Protek 506 ...RRP on these is about $200 but you can pick these up for about $150 ....

Thanks for that info Bob, I'm going to have a look around for one.

Protec, as Bob said. Tough and accurate... good value for $.

I don't think you can get a quality mm under the $150 - 200 mark.... unfortunately.

Originally Posted by Clinton1

...I don't think you can get a quality mm under the $150 - 200 mark.... unfortunately.

I paid $165 for a small Fluke about 12 years ago, had HEAPs of problems with the contacts on the buttons & to the LCD.
It still works, if I take it apart & clean it about every 2 weeks.

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

I still have my old moving coil meter, it is 31 years old this year.
Good meter but too big to cart around.

Cliff, I still have a number of moving coil meters, including an 80 year old one from work that has exposed gizzards and terminals and weighs about the same as brick - but can read 5A without any problems. Like you said - not exactly portable. The additional circuitry built into the newer DVMs also makes them very useful for other things.

Like the 506's that come with a thermcouple which I have used for all sorts of temperature checks, like measuring the real temp of ovens/BBQs for tempering tools etc and not relying on the crappy temp readouts that one usually has to put up with.

Logging Multimeters are even more useful because you can do things like;
combine with thermocouple to measure heating and cooling rates for heat treatment of metals. Add a $30 current clamp and measure the current draw/power usage of machines/appliances.

Cheers

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

Like all tools, you get what you pay for...

I buggered up my old good Fluke & bought a cheaper Fluke.
It is a piece of junk & I hate it, it never works when I need it to.

I have several meters in various tool kits, there is an $80 one I got from Dick Smith about 6 years ago that has been the best of the lot.
I can't remember the model number & it is still in the workshop in my Cairns house so I can't check straight away. On the strenght of it being not to bad for the price, I bought another one from Dick Smith, (different model) & it was piece of junk too.

Thank you to everyone who has so far responded to my questions - much appreciated.

Cliff I was wondering if you would mind elaborating on your remark of having bought a cheaper Fluke - I assume you mean one that was further down the range than the old one. I had a look on EBay earlier and noticed that various Fluke models can be purchased from Hong Kong and they especially mention they are built in China - does this mean it is an inferior one compared to others made elsewhere?.

Which country were they (and may still) originally made?.

Is a Fluke the same standard irrespective of where it is made I wonder?

I went into the local Power House (Dick Smiths Superstore) on the way home tonight and saw a brand called Meterman - has anyone here used or even bought one who can comment about it?.

The Proteck brand appears to get some favourable comments here, I will have to check them out later.

Btw, is there a need to have a multimeter that gives readings from 600 to 1000 volts (both Ac & Dc) for electrical work?. If not, who (trade) would generally need one that covers that range?.

Once again thanks to all those who replied and may yet again given all the questions I have asked in this post.

Cheers
MH

I dunno what mine is, but it takes a licking and keeps on ticking. Might even be one of them Protek ones since the price is about right. Simple DMM with the optical datalogging in it and a sensor in the head for current. Sparky model and all that. When I find it I'll let you know what it is.

The 600-1000V is because anything that gets hooked up to mains power (or might happen to do so) has the have insulation rated to 1000V to protect the worker/nitwit who happens to hit the mains wires with their widget. So if the insulation is right, but the meter is not, it might go pop and let some smoke out.

Not a garanteed reason, but I'd suggest it's prolly the most likely.


(I have been happy that the pliers and screwdrivers I used had good insulation more than once. A bit hard to tighten a screw when your hand is buzzing...)

Metal Head
Just what do you want to use it for
As a professional engineer if I was working on a project as an electrician then fluke is the way to go , if I was to work on high voltage switch boards I preffer a unit I can see both probes and when press a button on one of the probes to record the result I wish to see rather that look away at the meter
If I am at home then the $14 Dick Smith Special two for one is the way to go
Mate do you realy know how to use a meter , and if you only want to test voltage or if theres electricity etc at a particular point then go with the Dick Smith Option
There is no point using good dollars on a meter that you don't need when you could buy a better router etc for the shed

Rgds

Originally Posted by Ashore

Metal Head

Hi Ashore thanx for your reply.

Just what do you want to use it for?.

I am an electrical "D" licence holder. So in my line of work I sometimes have to take various electrical items (which are operated via a plug - no fixed wiring) apart to repair this sometimes involve 3 phase items.

I am also going to start a basic electronics course mid year (evening school) at TAFE. Thus, do you (or anyone else) think that anything that is over 600V both AC/DC is overkill?

I suppose a multimeter that tests resistance, diodes & continuity would be worth while?. Is it general practice (or even law) that when electrical items have been repaired or installed that they are insullated tested with a mega or even multimeters that have that process on them?.

Now that I have given you a better idea of what I need what would you suggest?.

Thanking you and anyone else in advance of your reply.

MH

As a professional engineer if I was working on a project as an electrician then fluke is the way to go , if I was to work on high voltage switch boards I preffer a unit I can see both probes and when press a button on one of the probes to record the result I wish to see rather that look away at the meter.

If I am at home then the $14 Dick Smith Special two for one is the way to go Mate do you realy know how to use a meter, and if you only want to test voltage or if theres electricity etc at a particular point then go with the Dick Smith Option. There is no point using good dollars on a meter that you don't need when you could buy a better router etc for the shed

Rgds

Hi,

I just saw this advertised @ $169. Given that a few members said previously that Protek were good value maybe it is one worth considering. Btw does anyone have this model and would like to comment on it?.

ProtekTM True RMS Multimeter

3.75 digits, 4000 count display, auto ranging with analogue bar graph, 10MHz frequency counter. These are undoubtedly the finest multimeters we have ever evaluated. They feature a range of functions that until recently were only found on models costing 2-3 times more. With proper care these multimeters will last a lifetime, and they are perfect for research and development, service work and general scientific measurement applications. Both models are supplied complete with high quality silicon rubber leads and durable protective carry case.

<TABLE cellPadding=2 width="100&#37;" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=PageTextCond align=left>

Minimum PC Requirements

</TD></TR><TR><TD class=PageTextCond align=left>IBM Compatible 486 or greater 100Mhz processor Requires RS232 COM port with 9 pin plug (or adaptor to suit) Software provided for Windows 95/98 indows 2000 software can be set to run as Windows98 Software is NOT compatible with Windows XP


</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


<TABLE cellPadding=2 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=PageTextCond align=left>

Features

</TD></TR><TR><TD class=PageTextCond align=left>• True RMS mode

• Q 1098 features RS-232 interface to PC computer (software supplied for DOS and Windows)
• Dual display for frequency, AC voltage and temperature
• 10 Location memory
• Time mode with alarm, clock and stop watch
• MIN, MAX, AVG and relative modes
• Decibel measurement
• Capacitance and inductance measurement
• Temperature mode (&#176;C/&#176;F)
• Pulse signal injection function for logic and audible testing, etc
• Continuity and diode test
• Logic test
• Auto power “off” and “keep on” mode
• Fused 20A input
• Warning buzzer sounds when leads are incorrectly inserted in the 20A current mode
• Back lit display
• Data hold and run mode
• Low battery indication mode
• Overload protection and safety design in compliance with UL 1244 and VDE0411

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>




<TABLE cellPadding=2 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=PageTextCond align=left>Specifications




</TD></TR><TR><TD class=PageTextCond align=left>DC Voltage

Range 400mV, 4V, 40V, 400V, 1000V

Resolution 0.1mV, 1mV, 10mV, 100mV, 1V
Accuracy 0.5% +2 digits
AC Voltage
Range 400mV, 4V, 40V, 400V, 750V
Resolution 0.1mV, 1mV, 10mV, 100mV, 1V
Accuracy 1.5% +2 digits
DC Current
Range 400&#181;A, 400mA, 20A
Resolution 0.1&#181;A, 0.1mA, 0.01A
Accuracy 1% +2 digits
AC Current
Range 400&#181;A, 400mA, 20A
Resolution 0.1&#181;A, 0.1mA, 0.01A
Accuracy 1.5% +3 digits
Resistance
Range 400 Ohm, 4k Ohm, 40k Ohm, 400k Ohm, 4M Ohm, 40M Ohm
Resolution 0.1 Ohm, 1 Ohm, 10 Ohm, 100 Ohm
Accuracy 0.5% +2 digits
Frequency
Range 10kHz, 100kHz, 1MHz, 10MHz
Resolution 1Hz, 10Hz, 100Hz, 1kHz
Accuracy 0.01% +2 digits
Capacitance
Range 100&#181;F
Resolution 0.01&#181;F
Accuracy 3% +5 digits
Inductance
Range 0-20H, 20-50H, 50-100H
Resolution 0.01H all ranges
Accuracy 3% +5d, 5% +5d, 10% +5d
Temperature
Range -20&#176;C - 1200&#176;C (0&#176;F - 2000&#176;F)
Resolution 1&#176;C /&#176;F
Accuracy 3% +3d (10 - 350&#176;C), 3% +5d(-20 - 10&#176;C)
Decibels dBm
Range -25 dBm - +59 dBm
Resolution 0.01 dBm
Accuracy &#177;0.5 dBm
Logic Test 0.8V- 2.0V
Diode Test Test Voltage 3.3V Max
Continuity Test Less Than 100 Ohm
Signal Out (4.5V Sq Wave)2048Hz, 4096Hz, 8192Hz
Protection 250V/20A Fused
Dimensions 88W x 37D x 199H

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