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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    United States Of America
    Posts
    194

    Default

    Hello everyone.

    I hope these photos & information help on this nut splitter topic.
    I chose a rusty bolt & nut for my photos so any damage to the threads & nut would show up shiny. My other hobby is photography.
    New food for thought in this post... preferably use a 6 point socket/flex handle or ratchet even a good wrench with the nut splitter rather than using an impact wrench on the nut splitter.
    I dont know what size fastener your dealing with...I have used & bench tested at home a new imported 2 pc nut splitter set I bought for $8.99 on a bolt mounted in a vice with success. I found that an open end wrench placed on the nutsplitter body helps prevent nutsplitter movement & twisting when tightening & using it. Get a good one with flat spots on its body preferably. If I recall correctly one nut made a cool CRACKING noise others did not this is due to hardness differences in my test nuts when it failed & split wide open before the built in chisel reached the threads. other nuts were softer & required using the nut splitter twice if needed I finished prying it open with a mini pry bar or junk screwdriver. I was very impressed with the ease of use after trying it a few times it was actually fun & required little strength or experience or expensive fire. LOL If needed or preferred when you see the nutsplitter chisel nearing the bolt threads then stop cranking the splitter. If you can only split only one side of the nut carefully & accurately strike different parts of the nut freehand with a metal cold chisel to stress the nut more & finish cracking & prying it off/ loose. I agree... if youre using an air chisel or metal cold chisel alone freehand for nut splitting it will probably be more stressful on the bolt depending on diameter, length size ect. possibly bending a soft metal bolt or breaking/snapping a harder bolt compared to a nutsplitter. Bolt size & bolts quality metal temper vary & added to this age & rusty metal dust filling the threads grooves/pitch, influencing what you can do with your fastener in terms of applying torque to remove it normally without the old bolt twisting, bending or snapping off if using a wrench ect. Some fastener Mfg websites provide torque charts for fasteners online. Of course these are reccomendations for new fasteners. If you dont have shaky hands an angle or dremel might do the trick as a last resort to weaken a couple spots on the nut. You can grind a small shallow groove on the nut place a chisel in the groove & whack it loose if youre missing corners on the nut. I agree...I personally would not cut/grind comepletely through the nut unless I didnt care about bolt damage.
    Some tap/die cutting oil with a stiff wire brush & goggles might help if you have some already, having cleaner threads should help theoretically reduce the torque needed for nut removal.
    I personally would first experiment practice dremeling / grinding on some junk frozen nuts/bolts fist if youre not sure which method to use.
    I hope this helps.
    Last edited by woodhog; 28th January 2006 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Add a picture

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    On the Downs, Darling SEQld
    Posts
    1,167

    Talking

    If I'm not using it with BUNDY,
    Coke is good for cleaning and also freeing Metal pieces.

    When we do up older Bikes [MOTOGUZZI]
    it seems to work. Doesn't have to be OLD Coke, though

    It might Surprise/SHOCK
    what it'll do to metals/ your Stomach

    That's what the Bundy is for:confused:
    To 'KILL' the Coke

    For those OS,
    Bundy is Bundaberg RUM,
    now also owned by Foreigners:mad:

    http://www.bundabergrum.com.au/
    Navvi

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Guluguba Queensland
    Age
    52
    Posts
    171

    Default

    If things are bad I sometimes cut them off with the oxy. most times the bolt wont be damaged.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    United States Of America
    Posts
    194

    Default



    Here's an additional photo of the nut splitter in use.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Townsville. Tropical Nth Qld.
    Posts
    1,244

    Default Rusty anything

    Up here we use a product called BOLTOFF, it smells like sh-t but it is the best, spray it on the nut ,wait a couple of minutes and undo with a spanner, dont know if its available in Mexico though.
    Croccy

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    kyogle N.S.W
    Age
    50
    Posts
    4,844

    Default

    Woodhog.. good photo. Impressive tool. Are they expensive ?

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    United States Of America
    Posts
    194

    Default nutsplitter comparison

    The nutsplitters in the USA cost somewhere $8.99 $12.99 at most auto or hardware stores. Its all personal preference they both work. I prefer the 2pcset with flat spots see photo to put a wrench to prevent excessive movement / twisting during use when tightening.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    kyogle N.S.W
    Age
    50
    Posts
    4,844

    Default

    Thanks for your trouble Woodhog. I must remember to get one next time I'm in town. They look like a reliable and quick method to remove a stuburn nut.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Nuts are off ! Did't have to go the cut and burn path, soaking with oil and tapping plus a bit of paitence did the trick. Thanks for all the tips.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    317

    Default

    I usually use a nut splitter and I haven't had a problem damaging the threads. When dealing with very large nuts, I've taken a small drill bit and first drill a hole through the nut parallel to the threads. That helps control the break and makes it a little easier on the nut splitter.

    My 2 cents.

    Paul

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