Thread: The ongoing saga of the ML392

Originally Posted by BobL

MK,
I thought I'd also post a picture of the current bow of my fence. The maximum gap was about 0.5 mm but I removed the fence and then it was less than 0.1 mm. When I put it back on, The gap went back to 0.25mm - it must be the order I am tensioning the T-track bolts or something - I just think the fence is too flimsy or am I being too fussy?

Bob had the same problem and managed to sort by shiming the back of fence in between the bolts and then tightening. So far so good.

Originally Posted by Prisky

Bob had the same problem and managed to sort by shiming the back of fence in between the bolts and then tightening. So far so good.

Makes sense I'll give it a try.

Had a bit more of a go at straightening the 392 fence last weekend and although I sort of have it OK, I can't help thinking that the fence is still a bit flimsy and it also too short. Today wandering around the hardware store I happened to walk pass the racks holding conventional galvanized steel angle lintels and it dawned on me that a maybe a fence could be conjured up from one of these as they look reasonably straight enough.

I was thinking of using a 1m long lintel and slicing off 2/3rd's of one of the angle sides, and then drilling and tapping bracket holes to hold it onto the existing bracket, maybe beef up the bracket as well.

Apart from having to deal with fairly chunky bits of metal can anyone think of potential problems etc that might come up?

(reposted from http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...075#post471075 - thanks Meerkat for the suggestion)

My ML392 is way out of whack. What I'm doing to try and fix it is:

1. get the outfeed table right across the table measuring against the blades. The means changing the lower adjustment bolt up or down to get it OK across the table. I can't see any other point to reference against other than the blades - anyone?!
2. There seems to be no way of adjusting the outer end of the outfeed table up or down (pitch), hence it has to be left the way it is and so the pitch of the outfeed table is now the pitch that the infeed will have to be adjusted to (true?)
3. adjust the infeed table in the same way as 1 so that it's level across the table against the blades.
4. now, after 1-3 the near-blade part of the infeed right is correct against the outfeed and the blades, but the pitch of the outfeed is stuffed: putting a straight edge from the outer of the outfeed table to the outer of the infeed table shows the infeed is lower (at the outer end) by about 15mm! Now my problem is I can't see anyway to adjust the pitch (ie. raise the outer end only) of the infeed table. There's a couple of strange bolts with hex adjusters (?) on the outside/front of the infeed table and I thought these could be use to adjust. However, they're fairly far forward making it less clear they can adjust the outer while leaving the inner part of the table stationary, and besides, there's also two what look like lugs which seem to make these bolts & hex dudes impossible to use to adjust anything anyway. With the swing mechanism of the tables, there doesn't seem to be anywhere to shim either.

So I'm stumped - 15mm is a bit too much I reckon !

Can anyone assist?

Rob

Originally Posted by mcarthur

1. get the outfeed table right across the table measuring against the blades. The means changing the lower adjustment bolt up or down to get it OK across the table. I can't see any other point to reference against other than the blades - anyone?!

I take it that right across the table means from back to front ? If thats the case adjust the table using the 2 bolts on the backside. I used the flat tops in the middle of the frame as a reference. Obviously dont use the fence or blades because both could be out

Originally Posted by mcarthur

2. There seems to be no way of adjusting the outer end of the outfeed table up or down (pitch), hence it has to be left the way it is and so the pitch of the outfeed table is now the pitch that the infeed will have to be adjusted to (true?)

I have not been able to adjust the outer ends of the tables to any worthwhile amount. The outfeed appears fixed with a pin anyway.

Originally Posted by mcarthur

3. adjust the infeed table in the same way as 1 so that it's level across the table against the blades.

Use the outfeed as the reference with a straight edge not the blades. Reason being (what I have found) is that the outfeed is the reference point for the infeed table and blades.

Originally Posted by mcarthur

4. now, after 1-3 the near-blade part of the infeed right is correct against the outfeed and the blades, but the pitch of the outfeed is stuffed: putting a straight edge from the outer of the outfeed table to the outer of the infeed table shows the infeed is lower (at the outer end) by about 15mm! Now my problem is I can't see anyway to adjust the pitch (ie. raise the outer end only) of the infeed table. There's a couple of strange bolts with hex adjusters (?) on the outside/front of the infeed table and I thought these could be use to adjust. However, they're fairly far forward making it less clear they can adjust the outer while leaving the inner part of the table stationary, and besides, there's also two what look like lugs which seem to make these bolts & hex dudes impossible to use to adjust anything anyway. With the swing mechanism of the tables, there doesn't seem to be anywhere to shim either.

That sounds a bit too much, have you wound the infeed and outfeed to their "proper" positions ? I got caught with that. Maybe a piccie will help ?

Also just check with some of the other posts to see if I missed anything or got it wrong

Originally Posted by meerkat

I take it that right across the table means from back to front ? If thats the case adjust the table using the 2 bolts on the backside. I used the flat tops in the middle of the frame as a reference. Obviously dont use the fence or blades because both could be out

Hmm, yep, I see now that using the blade as a reference point isn't perhaps the best idea. I don't know which "flattops" you're talking about though...

Originally Posted by meerkat

I have not been able to adjust the outer ends of the tables to any worthwhile amount. The outfeed appears fixed with a pin anyway.

Use the outfeed as the reference with a straight edge not the blades. Reason being (what I have found) is that the outfeed is the reference point for the infeed table and blades.

OK, so set the outfeed by reference to these "flattops", then set the infeed and the blade with reference to the outfeed? That's what I sortof tried except I was using the existing blades as reference. It's probably just as easy to use the circular blade carrier instead of the blade - that's a stable location.

Originally Posted by meerkat

That sounds a bit too much, have you wound the infeed and outfeed to their "proper" positions ? I got caught with that. Maybe a piccie will help ?

Also just check with some of the other posts to see if I missed anything or got it wrong

You're right - It just looked like 15mm . It's actually about 3-4mm, which is much more that I think it should be (<1mm I would think would be acceptable over the length of the infeed). Problem seems to be that the outer ends of the infeed and outfeed tables are not coplanar and it seems impossible to make them so! I can make them level across the table (front-back) near the blades but the ends simply don't seem to be able to be moved, yet are out by 3-4mm.

What are their "proper positions"?

Thanks for the help,
Rob

Hi Rob never thought of using the blade holder as a reference, what do you think there Gumby ? That would ensure the blades are square for the thicknesser.

I cannot get my infeed level with my outfeed, so I've left that alone. I've taken it that once it gets onto the outfeed table and held down on that the infeed is not so important.

Originally Posted by meerkat

Hi Rob never thought of using the blade holder as a reference, what do you think there Gumby ? .

My brain hurts

It seems to me that if the machine isn't sitting square on the floor, it would throw the whole thing out of whack. Maybe that's the place to start? Adjust the feet and see what differences you get up on the tables.

I haven't tried referencing off the cutter block. I spent a long time trying to get it adjusted as I mentioned in earlier posts but it doesn't adjust easily. The cutter block option is worth a go and would mean the thicknesser mode will remain true as you said. i can't see a problem with it...yet.

2 years now guys.....ebay the damn things

I thought about just letting it be, but 3-4mm seems inordinate and definitely force rocking into anything longer than the table lengths (which, given this is a combo machine, is pretty much anything over 1m!). If I can get it to 1mm or so then I'll stop cursing

Thanks Gumby for the idea. It's sitting on a mobile base which could be forcing it out a bit I suppose. I'm not too keen on heaving around such a weight though . I'll see what some judicious jacking up will do. At least I can see whether it has any effect and, if some, go the whole hog.

Rob

Originally Posted by dazzler

2 years now guys.....ebay the damn things

I recently put the 392 through its paces straightening and thicknessing the tas oak I'm using for a couple of king size single beds and I gotta say that I cant complain (unlike the timber that was supposed to be pretty straight etc).

Oh and Rob, keep perservering, it's worth it.

I won't be selling mine in a hurry. there isn't a replacement which comes close to it for value. I'm happy enough.

Question for all you owners:
has anyone tried different, (as in better quality), blades in these things. I think the standard blades are pretty crappy.
Are they a standard size, meaning better manufactured blades would drop right in ?