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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Sydney
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    5

    Default orbital sander GRABS and pulls sideways hard, won't stay flat to surface

    I got hold of a fairly powerful used 1/2 sheet orbital sander off the net, 280 watt and revs fast

    thing is it grabs and pulls left or right pretty hard ( a foot at least) I want to use it now as i'm renovating / painting a 70y.o. deco flat

    Otherwise it seems 'low kilometres' and not in bad condition, rubber pad a bit worn at the edges

    H.E.L.P , what gives? how to fix?

    same as this one (its a U.K model)
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wickes-280...p2047675.l2557

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
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    3,260

    Default

    My suggestion would be to place it carefully on the kitchen bench with a tea towel under it, and gently slide it across the bench till it falls in the rubbish bin. Then put the tea towel away.

    Then go and buy a random orbital sander (something like a 400w Bosch 150mm ROS for $200-ish) and get a much better level of finish.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sydney
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    5

    Default

    If the rubber pad were unworn and square edged might that be a solution ?
    Last edited by Big Shed; 29th April 2014 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Please don't confuse this forum with the front bar of your local pub

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,315

    Default

    One of my first jobs was sanding wooden doors for a kitchen manufacturer. For the back of the doors where these were flat, I would turn on the sander with the lock it place gently holding on to it and let it travel to one side. Then spin and allow it to travel to the other side. I think they are made to wonder.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    it's not wandering, its grabbing hard & tilting, this doesn't happen with less powerful 1/3 sheet generic sanders

    my hunch is that the worn pad edges may be causing the problem ( allowing the initial tilt)

    I was asking bods with experience with this actual scenario, not for advice to use another sander/type, so that would also mean ( unlike poste #2) bods that can comprehend my initial post
    Last edited by gybey; 29th April 2014 at 09:46 PM. Reason: spelling

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
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    3,260

    Default

    It's a possibility, BUT by the time you find a suitable replacement (assuming one is available) you'll have already spent $30 odd. I've used a ratty old 1/3 sheet Makita where the pad was best described as banana-shaped and bare at the corners, and it was quite controllable.

    If it's pulling that violently, I'd be more inclined to suspect the bearings, as good bearings cost money, even in bulk orders. For a badge engineered power tool, bearings are an obvious place to cut costs. (that UK one sold for $5, so I don't think it's a top of the line brand!)

    I don't mind using el-cheapo power tools for some jobs, but if my Ozito Rotary Hammer ($69) bites the dust, all I'd do would be salvage any useful bits and toss the rest without a second thought, and then go buy a new one.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
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    3,260

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    Quote Originally Posted by gybey View Post
    ....not for advice to use another sander/type, so that would also mean ( unlike poste #2) bods that can comprehend my initial post
    Ok. Since comprehension is a problem, here's shorter sentence and smaller word version:

    It's a UK house brand.
    Of an old type of sander.
    Spare parts will be hard or impossible to get.
    There are better sanders in the shops now.
    These will do the job faster.
    They will give a better finish.
    With less effort.
    280 watts is not very much power for a half-sheet sander.
    Fast is not necessarily good.
    I assume it is a single speed.
    Anything but a simple fix will be good money after bad.

    About the only thing I'd try would be scraping off the old (I'm presuming neoprene) pad and trying a cheap replacement. If you've got an old 6mm thick neoprene mousepad, I'd use that, or maybe a similar thickness cork trivet from the Reject Shop or similar place. Contact cement would work as a glue for testing.

    If that doesn't work, know when to cut your losses and bin it.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale, Victoria Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    3,896

    Default

    As others have indicated it will be a seized bearing

    Bearings are a cheap and easy fix as only standard bearings will be used.

    The bad side is that it may have bronze bushes., if so while you have it apart dump in the bin as it will be hard to get the original bushes.
    Jim Carroll
    One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gybey View Post
    I was asking bods with experience with this actual scenario, not for advice to use another sander/type, so that would also mean ( unlike poste #2) bods that can comprehend my initial post
    The 'bod' in post 2 has dished out a lot of good advice over his 2,400 posts, this is probably on the list of good advice.

    Courtesy will get you a lot further than trash-talk.

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