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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
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    356

    Default Ozito 12 Volt DC 1/2 Inch Impact Wrench Model #IWA-2100

    Hi
    I recently had problems removing the 22mm AF pulley nut from a vehicle alternator.
    Difficulty is in holding the pulley whilst the nut is removed with a socket wrench, and applying approx 100 ft lbs.
    Yes, I tried most methods.

    In some desperation, I bought an Ozito !2 Volt DC half inch drive Impact Wrench from Bunnings at $55, and intended for use with vehicle wheel nuts.
    I bought a matching quality single (six flats) 22mm impact socket from Supercheap at $2 each.

    I had the nut off in two seconds!
    I was amazed!
    I knew an air rattle gun would have worked, but, ... this economy thing!

    I was curious how this thing works, as when you pull the trigger, it spins up for two seconds then gives a single "clack", and this cycle is repeated.
    It goes "whirrrrrrrrr - clack, whirrrrrrrrr - clack".
    It is not like the repeated clack - clack of an air tool.

    I was going to replace the 2 x 0.5mm2 thin power cable anyway, and remove the supplied cigarette lighter plug, ...and ...curiosity intervened, and I pulled the tool apart to see how it works, blowing the warranty (At $55, it is almost throwaway).

    I thought someone else might like to see how it works.

    The rotary steel mass is mechanically connected (via a sliding and loose hex shaft coupling) to the motor at all times, and the front 1/2 inch drive shaft is not connected, but runs in a bush and rotates on a round shaft attached to the front of the mass, and on the same axis.
    The required inertia from the steel mass dictates a largish tool diameter; it is 75mm dia.
    When the trigger is pulled, the DC motor spins up the rotary mass, and at some revs (200 RPM ?), a centrifugal mechanical switch activates and projects a round steel pin from the spinning mass and connects with, and drives, an arm on the front drive-shaft.
    Clever, and cheap to manufacture.
    Slow in actual operation due revs run-up time.
    Also, there are some pin dis-engagement design issues, but, overall, impressive and simple.

    The tool mechanical quality is just OK for occasional use, not for repetitive wheel nuts.
    Never tried it on wheel nuts.
    The switch is a little flimsy and probably underrated, and uses a system of thin wire and push-in style electrical connection, and not screw type connections; this is a real downer and cannot be easily fixed or replaced.
    I fitted a shorter length of twin 2.5mm2 cable to mine, straight to newer and largish alligator clips ex Altronics.

    The wrench measured current draw is about 12 amps at start, falling to about 6 amps on run.
    Claimed torque is 260NM, approx 190 ft lbs. Feels about 80 ft lb on a 22mm socket to me, but it is an impact.

    A very useful tool for very occasional use.

    No associations with either company.

    mike

    DSC01748lo.jpgDSC01750lo.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    330

    Default

    Mike they are a great invention for the cheap sales market, i just came across this thread and thought i'd post

    when u need to undo a alternator nut u do it while u have the alternator on the car and with the drive belt attached the drive belt gives it friction and stops the alternator spindle from spinning u ideally only need to crack the nut after this u disassemble than continue to remove the nut

    i have the KCI Easy Impact Wrench i bought mine from a big 4 wheel drive outlet in sydney mines a little different to you's i think but same principle where it whines up than impacts i havent pulled mine apart but i think they work on a centrifugal force with a spring holding in the hammering mechanism untill its reach full spinning speed than the impact slides outwards due to the force of spinning than the hammer locks into the spindle and turns the 1/2" driveshaft with your desired socket attached

    these tools really are incredible, u can wire one up to an old computer power supply and have it run from your 240v/12volt power point at home on an extension lead it works out good if your doing mechanical repairs on your car because for these tools to work they were designed to be connected to a cars cigaret lighter socket or directly to the battery and u need the car running for the tool to reach maximum performance which it needs 13-14volts not a generally charged car battery at 12.5volts

    i used mine just the other day i was in the process of rebuilding my Nissan X-Trail car engine and i needed to whizzzz of the crankshaft/transmission flywheel and i was having air compressor drama's plus the engine was hoisted up on the engine crane outside of the car so i couldnt spin a socket on the bolts plus had no flywheel holder tool, so i pulled out the tool in my videos below and hooked her up and it never failed me

    ive taking a couple of videos of these cheap 12 volt impact wrenches working check out the videos, gone are the days of expensive air compressors and pneumatic tools

    first video is showing a 30mm nut removal i previously torqued to 158 newton meters second video shows the same tool removing a cars driveshaft 32mm nut torqued some where around 150-200 newton meters

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0SQ6E2xrT0

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-pYx1rRjRE

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
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    356

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post

    when u need to undo a alternator nut u do it while u have the alternator on the car and with the drive belt attached the drive belt gives it friction and stops the alternator spindle from spinning u ideally only need to crack the nut after this u disassemble than continue to remove the nut
    Hi Gazza

    thanks.

    I did try your suggestion, and even with a multi-ribbed belt and lots of belt friction "in car", the pulley kept slipping.
    Also tried using a spare belt and a bench vice unsuccessfully.
    It's certainly the impact which does the trick, and so quickly too!

    I don't like the idea of using one of these on wheel nuts though, (and in most cases there is no real need to use it).
    I prefer the feel of a manual tool, and the feedback of any other possible problems such as binding threads.

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