Thread: Which Ozito?

G'Day Zelk,
The more punch you have the easier the job as the tool is doing all the work for you.
http://www.ozito.com.au/10-kg-demolition-breaker-
Cheers, Crowie

I'll second crowie's decision.

You'll be battling to hire one for the price you can buy one. I bought an Ozito hammer drill about 6 years ago and it has done many tasks and is still going strong.

Just a thought.
Are you going to re-tile the floor.
If yes, then removing the existing surface is not necessary if it is solid and sound.
We have faced the same reno and were advised by the tiler to leave the old tiles - he tiled over them. The glues they have these days are so good that the lifting is not necessary. We have been very pleased with the result and it saved hours of dirty labour.
Cheers
SG

Thanks guy,
As mentioned, I started removing the render and tiles with hammer and chisel (60 mm wide) on a section of wall that was to the double-brick wall cavity and so there was no render on the opposite side. This section of wall was subject to seasonal movement and the mortar between the bricks had cracked. I noted displacing the bricks while removing the render. I was wondering how many joules of impact energy I was producing. I will probably have to re-brick this section.

Is there a certain chisel width to use with the powertool, I have note 15 or 30 mm wide bits.

I was also considering using an angle grinder with a diamond blade to score the full depth of the render in a grid fashion, to allow the render to come off in sections. I know it will slow the process, but I want to disturb the brickwork as little as possible, any comments about this?

Zelk

Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum

Just a thought.
Are you going to re-tile the floor.
If yes, then removing the existing surface is not necessary if it is solid and sound.
We have faced the same reno and were advised by the tiler to leave the old tiles - he tiled over them. The glues they have these days are so good that the lifting is not necessary. We have been very pleased with the result and it saved hours of dirty labour.
Cheers
SG

Sadly, the screeding will have to be redone as everything in the bathroom will have to be reorienated, so the floor waste will be in a different position.

Zelk

Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum

Just a thought.
Are you going to re-tile the floor.
If yes, then removing the existing surface is not necessary if it is solid and sound.

We did this in our bathroom and have somewhat regretted it because it created a small step at the door. In the daytime it's not a big deal but staggering to the toilet half asleep at night I sometimes worry about tripping on it.

Originally Posted by BobL

We did this in our bathroom and have somewhat regretted it because it created a small step at the door. In the daytime it's not a big deal but staggering to the toilet half asleep at night I sometimes worry about tripping on it.

I agree, we already have a 20mm step, adding another 17 mm would be too much.

Well, I ended up buying the 1500 watt Ozito version. I found it perfect in terms of power to weight ratio particularly for removing 25 mm hard render of the bathroom walls. As mentioned before, the mortar between the bricks was soft, apparently the Ozito did not disturb it.

For knocking of bricks and removing 60 mm thick screeding, you are definitely better off with a jack hammer. When working around pipes you have more control with the rotary hammer drill.

It was great purchase, especially as they are now on special at $109.

I also purchased a curved 30 mm wide Bosch chisel which was ideal for the application.

Interestingly, a few forumites has suggested tiling over the existing floor tiles, in my case, it appears that it has already been done.

regards,
Zelk