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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    West Wodonga
    Posts
    114

    Default Pin Nailer or Brad Nailer

    Looking to purchase a Pin Nailer or Brad Nailer. The terminology is a little confusing about what I actually want. Which should I get. Some appear also to able to fire staples. Is this good to have. I already have a air compressor and delivery plumbed to my workshop, so pneumatic units look the way to go.

    My intended uses would be for decorative trim, base board, crown molding, base molding, door and window casing, door installation, chair rail, hand railing and other projects that a DIY would get caught up in. Small bits of renovation coming up. What size nails should I be looking at.

    Air pin nailers run from $62 no name to $169 Makita to $250 for a Bostich. A Freeman PBR50 (Amazon) for $72 seems a reasonable buy. And of course there are green shed units.

    Would forum members have any recommendations. I don't have a lot of work for one, so a cheaper unit might be the way to go, but could be handy at the right time.

    Nifty.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    423

    Default

    Sydney tools or total tools is always a good start.
    Sydney tools for one of these Sydney Tools
    I bought an eBay no name 15 years ago and it gave up the ghost i had spent about $200. My general rule is buy a/the cheapest version of a tool to do the job-when it dies buy a good one if you need it. I walked into Sydney tools fully intent on spending the money on a bostich as I use it a lot for a hobbyist. But when I saw the Chicago for $100 and had a look I can see another 15 years use and the extra cash goes into another toy.

    I have used it for furniture making light concrete box making, retaining wall brace positioning fence repairs, door architrave, skirting boards, chook house. The list goes on I also bought a long hose for my compressor for when the retractable hose reel won’t get me there. The long hose only comes out rarely as moisture becomes a problem on long lengths.
    cheers

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    304

    Default

    I have been told the units that do staples & nails always leave a stable size indent in the wood even when firing nails. Not something I would like. Hopefully someone that has one will reply & clarify.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
    Posts
    4,677

    Default

    A Pin Nailer is used mainly for holding timber in place when no load is applied as not having a head there is nothing to stop the timber from being pulled off the nail, but a bit of friction and the glue on the pin. I have the Pin Nailer and a Brad Nailer and the Brad gun gets used a lot more. One of my Brad Nailers is just a Ryobi and it takes up to 32mm nails and it works perfectly. I know someone who brought the Ryobi Pin Nailer and it jambs a lot but I don't know if he damaged it earlier on by firing pins into the face side of thick MDF which is very hard.
    I agree with what Pete57 says, the combination units do leave a very visible mark from the staple plunger. I would never consider buying one. I do have a staple gun that I got in a set with a Nail gun and I don't think I have ever fired a staple, but that's just me and the work I do and you might have different needs.
    Dallas

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Redlands area, Brisbane
    Posts
    1,489

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    A Pin Nailer is used mainly for holding timber in place when no load is applied as not having a head there is nothing to stop the timber from being pulled off the nail, but a bit of friction and the glue on the pin. I have the Pin Nailer and a Brad Nailer and the Brad gun gets used a lot more. One of my Brad Nailers is just a Ryobi and it takes up to 32mm nails and it works perfectly. I know someone who brought the Ryobi Pin Nailer and it jambs a lot but I don't know if he damaged it earlier on by firing pins into the face side of thick MDF which is very hard.
    I have a Ryobi pin nailer. The inexpensive pneumatic one. Works fine for me, every time and I use it quite a bit.

    Way better than the Porter-Cable unit it replaced which jammed every single time, and far cheaper.

    I have a Porter-Cable brad nailer (max 50mm) and crown stapler and they are good units. Hell if I know what the story with the pin nailer was.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,866

    Default

    Hi NN. I use a Hitachi C1 bradder and a Makita DA bradder on a daily basis and would recommend both. C brads are thin, have small heads and max out at around 45mm long. DA brads are thicker, have D shaped heads and max out around 67mm long. I think the DA is more robust, easier to load and I use it for fix nailing (archs, skirts jambs, etc). I think both are essential for me

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Hobart
    Age
    77
    Posts
    647

    Default

    Wrongwayfirst,

    What sort of long lengths are we talking about?

    Cheers,
    Yvan

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,099

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Hi NN. I use a Hitachi C1 bradder and a Makita DA bradder on a daily basis and would recommend both. C brads are thin, have small heads and max out at around 45mm long. DA brads are thicker, have D shaped heads and max out around 67mm long. I think the DA is more robust, easier to load and I use it for fix nailing (archs, skirts jambs, etc). I think both are essential for me
    +1 for the Hitachi DA nailer. Brads 25mm to 67mm as MA has said. Now goes under the brand name Hikoki. Mine is a pneumatic tool but I see they are available as a cordless, battery driven model as well. It is an all purpose tool so far as nailing is concerned: It won't plane wood .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    423

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yvan View Post
    Wrongwayfirst,

    What sort of long lengths are we talking about?

    Cheers,
    Yvan
    I have a 20 mtr retractable hose reel mounted right up next to the ceiling in the garage, I have the hose end dangling just above head height, a quick easy grab and the hose is less of a trip hazard.
    when needed I have a 30mtr roll of hose that extends me into the yard and I have borrowed a mates 15mtr to get me closer to the back fence. I never had a problem it was only light use at that length but I heard many years ago that long lines will draw the water out of suspension- could be an old wives tale. That said when I am pinging away on my 50 mtr length I shoot less frequently

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    I've bought TWO of these... Freeman PP123 Amazon.com

    First was for a job and I loved it so much that I use it all the time. Bought the second Just In Case (still BNIB!)


    812FGcxR2sL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

    I also have the Paslode T250S-F16, but unless you are doing something industrial its like using a sledgehammer.

    The little Freeman is especially nice. It is controllable and put the pin just under the surface every time. I'm terribly impresed with it.

    I also bought a variety of pins (off Amazon) in 1/2, 3/4" and 1".... both Paslodes own brand and the GREX (Green box). They both operate beautifully and I've only had one jam in many thousands of firings.

    Care needs to be taken, there is no safety mechanism, other than a little blocking/toggle switch. It has never accidentally fired... but I have been James Bond on a few occasions... pew pew!!

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    I have the Freeman 23g and 18g. Not used much, but I am impressed by their quality ... especially at the price. For the amount of use they will get, I really could not justify spending more, but call me a satisfied customer.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,464

    Default

    I have three units..
    The first one I bought was an Ozito brad and staple unit and as others have said it leaves a very visible line when firing brads so it doesn’t get used for anything else but staples now.

    When I was restoring my 1860 Dutch clock I wanted to be able to align awkward fitting trims in place and align warped timber while the glue dried but leave almost no trace of the fastener. I bought a Makita cordless pin nailer. I didn’t have a compressor. Fantastic bit of kit. As the name suggests it fires pin thin “nails” with no head. The hole is almost invisible - wipe over with a wax stick and you can’t see it.
    They are not really a good unit for holding something in place as there is no head. I used mine more for alignment then clamps to hold while the glue dried.
    If you are after a pin nailer and have a compressor, go for the air driven - waaaay cheaper than the cordless.

    The third unit is an el cheapo brad air nailer coupled to a el cheapo Aldi Ferrex compressor. Works fine and takes 15-32mm brads.

    I have purchased spare “drivers” for both the pin and brad nailer as they don’t like hitting larger nails hidden below the surface - DAMHIK!

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    .I have purchased spare “drivers” for both the pin and brad nailer as they don’t like hitting larger nails hidden below the surface - DAMHIK!
    So it cant drive nails THROUGH other nails?

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,464

    Default

    Unfortunately no.
    Before and after shots of the attempt to try and do so

    FF8497D9-BBE2-41CA-AA7E-1265F24E2D24.jpeg

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wrongwayfirst View Post
    I have a 20 mtr retractable hose reel mounted right up next to the ceiling in the garage, I have the hose end dangling just above head height, a quick easy grab and the hose is less of a trip hazard.
    when needed I have a 30mtr roll of hose that extends me into the yard and I have borrowed a mates 15mtr to get me closer to the back fence. I never had a problem it was only light use at that length but I heard many years ago that long lines will draw the water out of suspension- could be an old wives tale. That said when I am pinging away on my 50 mtr length I shoot less frequently
    I 1/2" run rattle guns, air drills & air ratchets at around the same hose lengths. A lot of reels have 1/4" inlet into the reel which kills the flow, I pulled mine apart and drilled out the inlet to 3/8" which made a huge difference. You need to shop very carefully if you want a high flow air reel. The moisture drop out happens because the air will cool down while it is not flowing and also slow air speeds will leave moisture behind in the line.
    CHRIS

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