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  1. #16
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    You could but my preference is for the psychic sensor, concentrate and on it goes, problem is though, a lapse in concentration and all sorts of things go wrong
    Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by beejay1
    So I can run my slasher and rotary hoe as well
    Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iain
    You could but my preference is for the psychic sensor, concentrate and on it goes, problem is though, a lapse in concentration and all sorts of things go wrong
    That would never work for me On; Off; On; Off; On-Off; Off, Off, On, Off - On

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon
    That would never work for me On; Off; On; Off; On-Off; Off, Off, On, Off - On
    Breath in, breath out, breath...................erhhh what was it again? :eek:

    Al

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozwinner
    Breath in, breath out, breath...................erhhh what was it again? :eek:

    Al
    Croakkkk....

  7. #21
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    Again, at the risk of getting back on topic, FWW had a couple of articles on building your own current detector operated switch, which is probably what everyone REALLY needs.

    I think the dust sucker manufacturers are basically butt covering, if the combined vac & tool wattage is too high & you've used a bit of fencing wire in the fuse box, then you -could- manage to set fire to the house (on a hot day, with the wind in the right quarter). Remember that the wattage quoted in most appliances is the peak demand, either startup current or just-before-it-stalls demand, while running current may be half or a quarter of this.

    Hmmm - maybe I should suggest this gadget to GMC - a box with 2 input leads & 2 outlet leads/sockets that has a current detector switch that turns on line 2 power when a load is detected on line 1. Could even include an ELD too.

  8. #22
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    My vac has the same limitations
    Wouldn't be too hard to fit a relay to plug into the slave socket of the vac. The relay could be used to switch any size load within its contact ratings. Not hard to do, just basic electrical stuff.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  9. #23
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    Perhaps we should rename this thread "How to make a simple problem complicated"
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gumby
    Perhaps we should rename this thread "How to make a simple problem complicated"
    Nah, don't do that. Just answer the bleeding question

  11. #25
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    Craig...check the industrial aUctions for a Nilfisk if you don't want to pop for a Festool or Protool. Sometimes you can get them cheap because they are not as well known. They are serious units.

    Greg

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsrlee
    Hmmm - maybe I should suggest this gadget to GMC - a box with 2 input leads & 2 outlet leads/sockets that has a current detector switch that turns on line 2 power when a load is detected on line 1. Could even include an ELD too.
    I'm sorry...tell me again where the laser would go?

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigb
    Nah, don't do that. Just answer the bleeding question
    OK, get a $99 shop vac and stick it in a different power point. Turn it on just before you turn on the tool. Simple.

    OOOps, I almost forgot the most important part.
    Build a crosscut sled.
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  14. #28
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    I have found it relatively easy to walk over and use the foot switch to turn on the vacuum and then start the sander/router/whatever, however this all stopped on monday with some interesting noise and funny burnt smell eminating from the circa 1960's hoover (spent 35 years doing household duties and only took 3 years in my workshop to destroy it)so i'll be following these 2 threads with interest.
    And Gumby I already have 2 crosscut sleds, what else do you recommend building sans dust extraction?
    Bruce C.
    catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .

  15. #29
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    If you build a separate switch to hook into an existing auto-on thing, check with the manufacturer that their auto-switch in the vac can handle a contactor. It is possible that the less than sturdy units will cook instantly if they switch a contactor. Nothing to do with power consumption, everything to do with inrush current.

    On the more pricy units, the auto-switch is probably solid-state, meaning no contacts, just a bunch of electronic gimmickery. My Makita is electronic, and only rated to 500W or so.

    Pity the router it was packaged with is 1000W...


    The infrared switch is prolly the simplest and cheapest option, and no need to fiddle with the vac to make it work.


    Now, if I can make my vac work while the sander is off, I'll be happy. When it stops, jut stick the thing to the wall/ceiling/whatever within easy reach.

  16. #30
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    All this could easily be solved with an Aludium B49 Explosive Space Modulator. There should be a Kaboom, Where's the Kaboom????????

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