Questions, questions

**Sebastiaan56** · 22nd May 2007, 08:06 AM

First the story,

I bought a $55 Ozito drop saw a few weeks ago to cut chunks of timer for the lathe. The first one broke its guard on its maiden cut. Returned to Bunnings, pleading looks from the kids and it was replaced. Last weekend try to cut a piece of roadside gum and the blade locks in the saw, breaks a shaft, an attractive plume of smoke issues from the motor and saw No2 goes to machinery heaven. Sweating and using colourful language, rueful observations about "you get what you pay for..." finish cutting hardwood with a handsaw.

Here are the questions before I spend an inordinate sum. What do others use? My budget is really limited (note to self "ask SWMBO for advance on pocket money"). Ive considered a more heavy duty drop saw but getting one that will cut through 300mm is not so easy to find or cheap.

An electric chainsaw might fill the need but there are safety issues around holding the timber and there would be a learning curve involved. Also the thought of cutting expensive bits from merchants and buggering them is ever present.

Emergency cuts from a fellow club member nearby may be possible for a short time but the welcome will get thin. I dont have room for a bandsaw or table saw.

Ideas please,

Sebastiaan

**rsser** · 22nd May 2007, 09:46 AM

Hmm, drop saw's prob not the best for preparing lathe blanks. You might consider a cheap bandsaw - with a min of 6" depth of cut. Or if you're fit, a bowsaw with a fresh blade ... just takes time. But overall, an electric chainsaw is prob the most cost effective option - if you take your time and/or rig up a jig to hold the piece it's safe enough. Make sure you buy one with plenty of grunt though.

**joe greiner** · 22nd May 2007, 01:33 PM

A lot depends on the kinds of blanks you're after, as well as your comfort level in turning seriously non-round originals. For found wood/firewood, I use an electric chainsaw to cut to length, and split the log with a wedge if needed for something smaller. If you like or need to, you can then trim the shape to more round with a hatchet, i.e. for spindle work.

One or more of your fellow club members can probably give you some tutoring in chain saw use - highly recommended. At minimum, lash smaller chunks of wood to something heavier for safety; do NOT hold it in position with your own or anybody else's body parts. There's a couple recent threads (past month or two) on chain saw use - search the woodturning forum for "chain saw use". Includes some holding arrangements for bowl blanks.

Joe

**Sebastiaan56** · 22nd May 2007, 02:26 PM

Thank you for the replies. I will follow up the chainsaw idea, seems the most logical. Ive also found some posts on mills that use chainsaws in the home made machinery section of the site.

Point taken on safety. When I was younger I did spend time in tassie chopping up timber with a chainsaw. They can be mean.

Sebastiaan

**HappyHammer** · 22nd May 2007, 02:34 PM

What about a combo of electric chainsaw and Triton superjaws...cheaper than a bandsaw.

HH.

**Andy Mac** · 22nd May 2007, 02:40 PM

Originally Posted by Sebastiaan56

cut a piece of roadside gum and the blade locks in the saw. Sebastiaan

Hi Sebastian,
I reckon you're using the wrong tool for the job, as SCMS or drop saws don't really work on natural edged or round timber. Any movement or twist of the stock during the cut will likely jam the blade or something worse...as you discovered. They're really only suitable for square, milled stock. Electric chainsaw and a Triton Superjaw would be the ideal combination, but a good bow saw could be a cheaper option!

Cheers

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