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4th March 2006, 03:14 PM #1
Recent hand saw purchases and questions
These are some recent hand saw purchases
1 st picture shows a J Taylor and Sons Sheffield Tenon saw larger one 11TPI smaller one 13 TPI
2 nd picture shows blade fixture on tenon saws question is how do I get these undone without burring the crap out of the brass not a sandard screw driver but slotted either side of thread which comes all the way through
3 Spear and Jackson 7 TPI c/c
4 2 misc unidentified
5 2 diston one 6 TPI and the other 8 TPI
other questions to follow"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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4th March 2006, 03:27 PM #2
2nd and 3 rd images show a Disston on which I was removing the handle and ran into issues with the screws rotating freely thus being unable unscrew the fixture to remove the slotted one side inset and round the other. Ideas please on how to remove without damage
no 4 rounded over both sides how do I remove without damage
Thanks
Andrew"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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4th March 2006, 03:48 PM #3
On the saw screw that has a split slot, you will have to grind out the center from a cheap* screwdriver, or try a cat's paw if you have one (small, handled nail puller used by upholsterers).
*obviously make sure it fits first though, and beware of the cheap screwdriver's appetite for nice brass screws
The round headed screws are really a threaded insert that has flutes to grab the wood in the handle, thus preventing turning. Can you try jamming something in the bore to prevent the turning that you are getting?
I don't know about the saw with round headed fasteners on both sides. Are they rivets? Is there any way for you to cut a slot in one with a hacksaw or motor tool?
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4th March 2006, 06:10 PM #4
Two problems, two [hopeful] solutions.
For the split nuts, an easy way to make a driver for them is to purchase a hex-drive spade bit, say a 12 mm or 1/2". Grind or file the point down and use a common round file for a chainsaw, perhaps a 7/32" round file and file a depression deep enough to span the bolt. This will work well, assuming you have a hex-drive handle to sttach it into.
For saw nuts that spins, I place the bolt head side onto a piece of hard rubber and while pressing the handle down firmly onto the rubber, turn the nut off.
Chance are the wood has shrunk over time and the saw nuts have been tightened until they have bottomed out and are jammed. If this is the case, find a die to cut the threads a little deeper on the bolt.
Take care, Mike
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4th March 2006, 06:11 PM #5
Oh--nice saws! Mike
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4th March 2006, 06:29 PM #6
G'Day Kiwioutdoors!
For the special slotted screws, used on many saws and the like, see
the second from the left. These are from Lie Nielsens, so the price is, naturally (!) a bit more than normal at around US$25 for that one alone.
If you were a bit closer I could lend you mine, but do a Google and look for a split nut screwdriver.
Cheers!
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16th March 2006, 09:57 AM #7
I have modified a screwdriver and it worked perfectly for the job. Am trying to epoxy a nail onto on the stuck screw so I have somethin to grip on to. Still not sure what to do with the three saws with fastners that are rounded over. Is it kosher so to speak to replace the fastners with new hardware.
"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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16th March 2006, 10:29 AM #8
At the risk of being a tad cheeky--and I don't mean to be--they are your saws. I personally would do whatever I could to make them useful again.
If you cannot find new saw bolts/nuts, a good source are old saws that are otherwise sharpened out in order to rob the bolts/nuts off of.
Take care, Mike
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16th March 2006, 07:51 PM #9
The epoxied nail worked a treat at allowing me to turn the screw.
"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)