Thread: Router buying....

Originally Posted by abitfishy

Hey all,

..........I also assume a plunge router 'locks' if you don't want it to plunge (which might answer my previous question).

Also, are there size differences in threads .....

Thanks

Yep, they lock and they have presets for depth

Usually you get 1/4" and 1/2" bits. If you get a half-inch router it will come with a collet to allow use of 1/4 bits. I think there are 3/8" models - maybe rare. 1/2" will have a bigger motor - important/useful.

My view: I bought a non-plunge because the price difference was just tooooo much at the time. I never regretted it though I have since bought a plunge - both of these are 1/2".

These days, I guess I'd buy a plunge model first-up - can't think of any disadvantages - maybe weight. Others can advise better.

If you are going to put it upside down in a table, I think plunge.

Originally Posted by abitfishy

May I ask why I should/shouldn't buy a plunge router - I assume a plunge router is considered advantageous, however are there situations where a plunge router is a disadvantage?

If all you want to do is to mill edge profiles, follow external templates or cut housing joints (dados) which are open at both ends, then a fixed-base router will do that. However, in order to start a cut in a place other than at an edge, you would need to tilt the bit down into the work whilst running, or pre-drill a start hole, neither of which are as safe or accurate as being able to plunge the bit from above.

Originally Posted by abitfishy

Also, are there size differences in threads one should get or are most adaptable? I just don't want to buy something that I think is a bargain when it might not be ideal practical wise.

The major flexibility and usefulness of routers lies in the vast number of bits that can be used with them. Some users have a separate 1/4" router to their 1/2" router (the sizes refer to the collets and consequently, the bit shafts). Others have a single 1/2" machine with either a separate (interchangeable) collet, or a reducing sleeve, so that the bigger machine can accept both 1/2" and 1/4" bits. The choice here will be governed by the type of work you expect to be doing and the sort of bits you'll be using. Small jobs, small bits, small machine - sounds obvious, but it's true. Bigger jobs, bigger bits, see where that's going? You can see the difference in size of a couple of plunge routers in a page I did a while ago on router basics and safety. It's here if you get the time.

Originally Posted by abitfishy

Ideally, there would be a handy buyers guide to power tools somewhere that would explain whats essential/handy/not desirable when one is buying different power tools.....

How true, but then you would still get a squillion different opinions of actual users. I reviewed a couple of routers of different power, both plunge, both 1/2" and 1/4" capable and both Triton. They're here if you're interested.

I would never buy a fixed-base router, especially as a first machine. It's too limiting and inflexible, compared with a plunging router around the same price. That said, many N. American woodworkers will have started with one and have totally different opinions. HTH

Ray.

Thanks guys. I don't know what I will be doing with them yet, but don't particular want to get one when something really needs the other (ie a plunge router). So looks like I need a plunge router with both 1/2 and 1/4 capable. Will put it on my 'list'.