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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Newcastle
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    1,014

    Default Screwdriver bit recommendations

    I'm after recommendations for high quality screwdriver bits. General use and impact driver.

    I've chewed through almost everything I've got driving screws into my new shed floor. pre-drilled 22mm red-tongue particle board into ironbark sleepers.

    For the record, these Axminster bits are utterly useless. And the depth-adjustable holder is more worser! Whoever came up with putting a rubber o-ring in between the lock nut and the depth adjuster, and thought that it wouldn't move?

    The best so far have been a set of 'gold' bits I got from Screwfix in the UK many years ago, but they don't seem to stock them any more. They've lasted a very long time, but I need to replace them as they slowly exit this life.

    What do you recommend. I really don't care what they cost if they're quality and don't shatter when you look at them funny.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    These are the best ...

    Diamond-Tipped Screwdriver Bits - Lee Valley Tools

    The are diamond tipped for non-slip.

    19J3008-2-pozidriv-bit-f-84.jpg

    Regards from Prague

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    Consider changing to square drive screws. The positive lock into the head solves a lot of the problems with the more traditional head screws. In my experience anyway.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Soldiers Point, NSW
    Age
    60
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Hi Bernmc

    Have you pre-drilled the ironbark sleepers as well? You say the red tongue flooring is pre-drilled but don't mention the ironbark.

    If you have pre-drilled it, is the depth of the hole able to accommodate the length of the screw embedded into it? Or maybe consider a larger drill bit so a tad less of the screw thread bites into the ironbark. That would enable you to back off the driver clutch to a lower torque setting.

    Regards
    Twosheds

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    54
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    3,402

    Default

    Those Axminster bits and the one in the photo in Derek’s post are POZIDRIVE bits; very popular in Europe and the UK but almost unheard of in Australia. The don’t fit PHILIPS headed screws that are 99.9% all you find in Australia; unless you are a sparkie who regularly comes across European equipment (like Tecalimit, ABB and Schneider).

    It’s all down to geometry; the flanks on a Philips bit are tapered so that it will “cam out” if over-torqued whereas PZ bits have parallel flanks. In Derek’s photo you can see clearly the way the bit has been ground to give the parallel flanks leaving those peculiar pointy webs which are an easy identification. They are usually stamped “PZ1/2/3”, whereas Philips are stamped “PH1/2/3”.

    You can force the two together, a bit like you can force NPT and BSPT threaded fittings together. If you use a PZ bit in a Philips head (which I’ll almost bet a pod is what you are doing) only the very end of the bit is actually in metal to metal contact with the flanks until enough torque is generated to deform the screw head slightly. You’ll never get full contact though.

    Sparkies have the opposite problem; I’ve lost count of the number of contactors and relays I’ve had to replace because the knuckle-draggers keep trying to tighten terminals with PZ heads using a Philips screwdriver; in this case the bit is only in contact with the very top edges of the screw head and it fornicates the screw head.

    Treat all bits as throw-aways; they are cheap. Buy them in handy boxes of 20 or so and toss them as soon as they start to show rounding off at the edges.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    I bought a 50 odd cheap set of security driver bits on ebay and it included both PZ and PH bits and using the right bit makes a difference.

    BTW Pozidrive is incorrect spelling for PZ bits, the correct name is "Posidriv" see List of screw drives - Wikipedia
    That Wikipedia entry has a good summary of most driver bits.

    I agree with CT that bits have become throw away items.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mexico. Actual Mexico not Victoria.
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Irwin impact rated driver bits. They're the ones with the blue/silver banding. They're the only bits I use. Never seen seen one shatter or chip and that includes flogging them in an impact driver.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
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    65
    Posts
    4,677

    Default

    The link that Derek put up has the option to select Phillips bits when you go to the site.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    There's actually some merit in having a few driver bits slightly softer than the screw.
    If the bit shreds itself on a screw head the bit can be easily replaced it but the other way around can be a bastard to deal with especially on a machine when the bit snaps the head off.
    OTOH I suppose that's what driver clutches are for.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    ACT
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    Posts
    2,578

    Default

    You are asking to get screwed when you play with screws.
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    64
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    1,357

    Default

    You really need better screws and not Phillips head.
    The best I have used are the Wurth branded ones, I fitted a lot of ironbark cladding and used 15,000 screws and they were great. They have a proprietary torque style head
    I am just about to lay a black butt deck and have just bought 2000 of the heavier gauge Wurth screws for the job. They sell a countersink bit as well that is much better than the standard ones

    They are not cheap but are worth it

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    1,014

    Default

    Both the Axminster bit set and Derek's LV link have Philips as well as posidriv. The screws I'm using are philips #2, and I've been using philips #2 bits. So geometry is covered - and I think the fact that the bits are shattering as well as stripping/wearing suggests they're in good contact.

    I've had a couple of bits shatter inside the screw, so they're going to be a barsteward if I ever need to get them out. I may move house instead.

    I do prefer posidriv, but the screws I'm using are from the Big Green Place, and they don't seem to have much (if anything) in PZ.

    The ironbark isn't pre-drilled, so I guess that's an option. Just adds to the time the job will take.

    I found a protool review on impact bits - DeWalt fared quite well, and they're only $38 for a 40-bit set through amazon prime au so I have some of them on the way.

    I will get some of Derek's LV recommendation to try, and as suggested, buy a bloody big box of something so I can just sigh, roll my eyes, and reach for another. I've levelled an re-floored about 25 sq meters, with another 10 to do in phase 3 of my Major Shed Development (MSD).

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    I recall one of the forum's advertisers sell Pz screws almost exclusively, Phillips were designed to cam out whereas Pz was designed to prevent it. As for the spelling, it is an British v's American thing and I am sure the Europeans developed it so I go with the z.
    CHRIS

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Philips heads were the result of very stiff lobbying to government. The better Canadian Robertson design was dropped.
    Still the preferred wood screw here. The Chinese built 8 factories to produce wood screws. All Robertson.

    I can use #8 in various lengths for most indoor things. Outdoors = fence frames, vine trellises, etc, I use #10 and #12.
    Hardened driver bits are sold here in color coded packs of a dozen.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    SE Melb
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    Default

    It is widely speculated that Phillips's head was designed to slip to prevent over-tightening. Apparently, it was mentioned in the 1949 refinement to the original design in the US patent. Whether this is true or not, Phillips head will slip if too much torque is applied, particularly from an impact driver. So pre-drilling will help to reduce the torque required. I also always press down quite hard with my left palm while driving the trigger of my impact driver with my right.

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