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  1. #31
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    I always find long shank (150mm) bits better because you can see what you are doing without having the impact driver in your way.

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  3. #32
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    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Having worked quite a bit with Ironbark and indeed other Aussie hardwoods, I would not even contemplate anything other than a pilot hole before attempting to screw and a clearance hole in the flooring material too. The pilot hole only has to be a fraction smaller than the thread diameter as the Ironbark will have huge holding power. A lubricant is another good additions. In addition to the suggestions already made you can consider all purpose type grease too. I keep a jar of old grease handy for this and just dip the tip of the screw only.

    I recently put down a deck and had three cordless drills on hand. One for pilot hole, two for the clearance hole and three for the impact driver and go go go (apologies to Elvis). I am not saying it is not time consuming. It is.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Newcastle
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    1,014

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    I did some pre-drilling for the last section and it was better. On my last axminster bit, and not quite enough screws to kill it, but I still felt it was going by the end.

    I have the Dewalt drill with a countersink and clearance drill combo, festool with one of Brett's amazing colt drill group buys for the pilot, and a Dewalt impact driver - so at least I don't have to play bit-swap.

    Cheap Dewalt impact bits on order, and I'm trying to find a decent supplier for Wera - the LV site doesn't allow you to select P2 bits - their solution currently is 'we'll let the web team know, in the meantime give us a call...in Canada or the US'. So far Amazon au looks like the easiest but I'll trawl through some European sites to see if I can find one that delivers internationally to compare.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
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    64
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    1,357

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    Bernmc , what sort of bit holder are you using with those screw tips?

    I am not recommending this brand as don’t think I have used them before but I find this style of bit handles the torque jolts better to preserve the tip and screws head
    Sydney Tools

    you can get bit holders made in the same fashion

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Soldiers Point, NSW
    Age
    60
    Posts
    185

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    75mm screws minus the 22mm flooring equals 53mm driven into the ironbark - without pre-drilling!!! I'm impressed. I wouldn't have even attempted that. No wonder you have gone through so many bits. Seems the quality of the Zenith wood screws is somewhat better than what most people expect, myself included.

    My 2c worth
    Twosheds

    PS How are your hands Bernmc, mine would be positively tingling after all that impact driving into ironbark?

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,757

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    Another lube for screws is hard bar soap, it's cheaper than wax and easier to handle than grease. When I was a builders labourer an old school form work carpenter showed me how dragging screw threads across a groove in a bar of soap so that the threads picked up some soap made them much easier to drive even when a pilot hole is used in hard timber. It works on nails too.

    This trick came in real handy when I built our loft/attic in the roof cavity. The framing was made from recycled jarrah and the floor was recycled Wandoo, which is about as hard as Iron bark. For part of the time when I was building this my son was on night shift and his bedroom was right next to the attic so had to use screws to do quite a bit of the fixing. When the house is eventually demolished the demo team will be surprised at the rigidity of the frame surrounding that space.

    Loft2s.jpg

  8. #37
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    May 2009
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    melb
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    1,125

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    Are the zenith screws self tapping type?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

  9. #38
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    Jun 2005
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    Helensburgh
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  10. #39
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    Nov 2018
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Quote Originally Posted by twosheds View Post
    PS How are your hands Bernmc, mine would be positively tingling after all that impact driving into ironbark?
    Fortunately I am Strong Like Bull and father only boychilds. Actually, I'm impressed at how comfortable the Dewalt is to use. All I have to show for my efforts are a couple of bleeding knuckles where they drag on the new floor.

    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    Are the zenith screws self tapping type?
    Just standard chipboard screws:

    Screenshot 2020-01-02 13.32.02.jpg

    Good ebay find Chris - they have some things that Amazon au doesn't (like those 50mm P2's). Prices slightly higher than Amazon where they both stock.

  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernmc View Post
    Fortunately I am Strong Like Bull and father only boychilds. Actually, I'm impressed at how comfortable the Dewalt is to use. All I have to show for my efforts are a couple of bleeding knuckles where they drag on the new floor.




    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    In between houses
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    1,784

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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Hi Riverbuilder

    Agree that lubrication of screws is almost always a good idea, but I do not like silicone spray as you have to be so careful. Get a smidgeon on your work surfaces and it may impact adversely on future finishes.

    Usually I use lanolin, but almost any lubricant will work - softened candlewax, softened beeswax, parafin, butter, margerine, cooking oil, light machine oil - haven't tried sump oil!


    Cheers

    Graeme
    Yes I did consider the contamination however as he said it’s a deck, most of ours get left raw to go grey. I agree with the fellow talking about the Wera bits, they are german snd very good. Another brand that was excellent was ABW, german made also, but I can’t find them any more anywhere. The other thing I’ve found is to use a driver drill rather than an impact driver. My protool driver is great because you can shift from impact to low drive or high with the flick of a button, and then adjust the clutch to suit whatever you’re driving, it’s a unique feature which I’ve found really useful, I think the bigger Festool units may have it too.

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    10,810

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    I recommended the Wera bits. They are the Best.

    If you are looking for a combination screwdriver, the Wera Compact 20 is superb. Not only can you use the bits in the handle, but they can be used in a drill-driver.



    I suspect RB’s Protool driver is the forerunner of the Festool DRC 18/4, which is amazing for its power, torque and speed range. I picked up a little used one on gumtree as my “big” drill, and just love it.



    On a train to Berlin ...

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    2,622

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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Another lube for screws is hard bar soap, it's cheaper than wax and easier to handle than grease.
    I've read many times that you shouldn't use soap to lube screws. Apparently it attracts moisture and can cause premature corrosion of the screws. Paraffin wax is the go. I use one of these:

    Goss Dry Lube 27G - Autobarn

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    2,622

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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    I suspect RB’s Protool driver is the forerunner of the Festool DRC 18/4, which is amazing for its power, torque and speed range. I picked up a little used one on gumtree as my “big” drill, and just love it.
    How's the gear change on it Derek? I have the Protool and it's a b*tch to change gears on.

    Enjoy Berlin- it's great.

  16. #45
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    Jun 2010
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    Bundaberg
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    I use one of these: Goss Dry Lube 27G - Autobarn
    So did I when I lived in Victoria but I got fed up with them melting when I moved somewhere nicer .

    I have a block of a really rock-hard pale beeswax; we used to use it for lubricating whipping twine on ship’s ropework. I use it for lubricating plane soles and screws; it has a few channels cut into it from dragging screws through it.

    I’ve never heard of soap attracting moisture; if anything it tends to get drier as it ages but in any case you are only talking about a very thin film trapped in the screw threads and buried in hardwood. Soap is an alkali and many screws are zinc plated so maybe if the wood got really wet for a long time then possibly there could be a reaction but I wouldn’t expect anything more than mild discolouration. Be interested though to hear if anyone has experienced corrosion from a soaped-up screw.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

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