Slop in table saw track.

CT · 18th May 2006, 05:38 PM

I have a DeWalt 744XP table saw and it came with a mitre sled. The only thing I notice about it is that the sled seems a little sloppy in the track and has a slight, but noticeable movement laterally across the track. The mitre sled just slides in the track and there are no mechanical aids to help it run true. A while back I found a US site that makes a mitre sled that has spring tensioned ball-bearings in the bar. The idea being that the bearings help to align the bar in the track to take up the slack.

Does anyone know what I'm referring to? I'd like to spend a bit more on a decent mitre sled if it gives me accurate mitre cuts. With the standard unit I got with the saw I can get 'varying' 45deg cuts depending on how I hold the sled when running it through. I guess my concern is more purist than practical perhaps.

For sure I use my chop saw for small mitre cuts but for larger pieces I'd like to get the best accuracy from my saw. Any tips or recommendations?

**Auld Bassoon** · 18th May 2006, 05:43 PM

Have a look at the Incra mitre guides here http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/ps...:user::1,0,0,1::

**outback** · 18th May 2006, 05:49 PM

Steve has the best solution. After market units will beat the stock standards ones most times.

BUT

If you use a centre punch judiciously you can belt a small dimple in the mite guage, near the edges, which will take up the slack.

**Auld Bassoon** · 18th May 2006, 07:14 PM

Originally Posted by outback

Steve has the best solution. After market units will beat the stock standards ones most times.

BUT

If you use a centre punch judiciously you can belt a small dimple in the mite guage, near the edges, which will take up the slack.

Yes, BUT! In my humble experience, most mitre slots aren't exactly parallel sided, which means the dimpling/planishing effect will only be effective for a portion of the mitre slot's length whereas the wheel system can make allowances for minor deviations. Having said that, putting in a couple of dimples in the standard gauge may work, and if it doesn't it's only a minor nuisance.

**numbat** · 18th May 2006, 08:12 PM

Originally Posted by outback

If you use a centre punch judiciously you can belt a small dimple in the mite guage, near the edges, which will take up the slack.

The Taunton DVD I saw recommended putting dimples in a very elongated "S" shape on both sides of the mitre track - the aim being to not have all the dimples in a line.

Cheers

**Jock_Jock** · 18th May 2006, 08:32 PM

I had the same problem with carbatec 10 inch saw and the standard mitre gauge track. While i was waiting for my incea to arrive I drilled 4 holes in the side of the bar , tapped the holes and inserted 4 nylon screws. I could then adjust the screws to take up the slack. It worked a treat but the mitre tracks were parallel and uniform in lwidth
Cheers
Jock

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