Thread: Stihl 076 Chainsaw rebuild (WIP).....

Should be a ripper once you get her going, these old girls just putt along once they been serviced and tuned

Originally Posted by martrix

....Take a look at pic of the starter hub. I have the service manual and from those pics it seems the hub is supposed to be ribbed for the fingers to grab and spin the flywheel (makes sense). Mine is super smooth .

So is the problem the smooth hub?
I can get a new one pretty easily....I think.

It looks like they have been worn away.
I think you need a new hub for sure but you also need to find out what did it.
What does the part that engages it look like?

Also noticed that the cooling fins seem to be an odd shape, is there something inside the cover that has been touching them to make them that shape?
Is there a pic of them in the manual?
What does it show?

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

It looks like they have been worn away.
I think you need a new hub for sure but you also need to find out what did it.
What does the part that engages it look like?

Also noticed that the cooling fins seem to be an odd shape, is there something inside the cover that has been touching them to make them that shape?
Is there a pic of them in the manual?
What does it show?

Hi Cliff, according to the manual, these fingers do eventually wear away (the edges round over). Had a close look at the edges of the fingers and they are well rounded over. Guess the ribbed hub suffered the same fate, as the pic in the manual shows it well ribbed. Like this.



Manual also says that as the fingers are symmetrical, they can be flipped over once to get nice sharp edges again. These ones haven't been flipped yet...Cool.

So, I will get a new hub a flip around the fingers.

As for the cooling fins, there is one broken off which shouldn't make much difference? There is also some wear on the cover from the fins touching which you can see in pic. Maybe it was dropped?

I think the fins are meant to be that shape, as I measured the diameters and they correspond with the cover.

How old would this saw be?

I would say your saw would have been made around the late 70's or early 80's

That 'missing' cooling fan fin might be a small concern.

If it's supposed to be missing, then all is fine. If not, the fan might be out of balance and when spinning when the motor is running might throw it out enough to chew up bearings quicker than normal. Maybe not, and I wouldn't be overly concerned, but if the bearings die quickly you might be able to point to that as the culprit.

I wouldn't worry about it. Not much is 'missing' and I doubt it's going to cause trouble.

Good saw, at least you can work with this one unlike the newer ones...

Looks like you might be on a winner.
I have an old 08S & it has been dropped & patched up a coulpe of times.
Mine is a bit hard to start from cold but a bit of aerostart wakes it up.

The old saws are fairly easy to work on & as simple as anything.
The new ones are nicer to use 'cos they run much smoother.
If I put mine down to use 2 hands to move a log into a better position, it vibrates that much that it walks away from me.

How old would this saw be?

They were first made in 1980, so some time after that.
The serial number can usually be used to work out the year of manufacture.

Look like an ideal beast for milling

Cheers

Ian

thanks for the replies.

Seems my saw is heading into middle age......should get another 30 years out of it then.

Have ordered a new starter hub for $15 and should have it before the weekend. Found another prob though.

Take a look at the clutch. There are 3 shoes, but one is completely missing the lining. Maybe when that lining self-destructed some of it worked its way into the flywheel housing and thats what broke off a cooling fin?

So am I up for a set of new clutch shoes?

It would probably still work ok, but for milling work I would be replacing it.

Could slip with a slabbing jig on her

Martrix,

I assume you know this link? I summarizes a bunch of facts about that saw. Says these were first made in 1980.

Carry on - I'm watching you with a lot of interest! I spoke to that local owner of that 76AV I told you about that was 4sale. It sounds real good, maybe too good!

BobL

Originally Posted by djstimber

It would probably still work ok, but for milling work I would be replacing it.

Could slip with a slabbing jig on her

Why do you say this dj?

Different cutting forces are applied when cutting endgrain or across the grain and endgrain is can really bog the saw down.

When your normally cutting a log you're constantly resetting the pivot point of the saw and the load is not as great, but with slabbing the pressure is constant therfore the load is fairly hard on the clutch

Originally Posted by djstimber

Different cutting forces are applied when cutting endgrain or across the grain and endgrain is can really bog the saw down.

When your normally cutting a log you're constantly resetting the pivot point of the saw and the load is not as great, but with slabbing the pressure is constant therfore the load is fairly hard on the clutch

Yeah that makes sense. But , ( hey, ! I have only cut half a dozen logs so what do I know - ) after blowing up the baby Mac I found the Homelite CS cut easier in the mill by continually rotating the mill/CS left and right on the milling rails - I think this reproduces the pivot thingo you talk about.

Or maybe I was dreaming.

It does help to pivot if you can, instead of cutting the full width you are only cutting half to 2/3thirds