This is a really good move. FWIW my experience is that not all stainless is completely rust proof and there are several things I have made in my shed out of stainless that eventually have rusted. Two examples are the steel straps I used to hold up some of my DC ducting and some stainless sheet that I used to make a mini-metal cutting table saw. Anyway lets see what happens. I think some wood resins don't play all that well with some types of stainless.
There are a zillion methods. Dipping hot workpieces into various oils is technically called "oil blackening" and is not a bluing process. Bluing process range from the very slow "doing everything from first principles" of "fume bluing" thru to almost instant, but quite expensive, "paint it on" solutions. The best bluing commercial solutions are not available here in Oz and they are considered as dangerous goods so cannot be sent through regular mail - I have tried multiple times to do this.Quote:
I am interested by your bluing process. I had always thought this was achieved by heating boiled linseed oil onto a surface.
I have tried several methods. The one I like is called "fume bluing" and involves deliberately rusting the pieces in a mixed vapour of water, nitric and HCl. It origins are medieval and was used by armourers and producers of early firearms. It produces a fine red rust which is then converted to black oxide - see WIP link below. If multiple layers are used the colours change with each successive layer from gunmetal grey, thru to black-brown, then deep black, and then if you squint hard enough it supposedly develops a hint of deep blue? (I have yet to see this). This process is slooooooooooow, and mainly used by purists but the results can be very satisfying especially off there is fine detail involved.Quote:
I had thought it was used on the splines for back saws. Have I got this wrong or are there two processes which have a similar description? I get the impression your bluing (nothing to do with intense discussions with SWMBO) could also be described as fuming (still nothing to do with domestic disputes :wink: ).
This is the brake handle I made for my De Prony Horsepower measuring rig. The handle is just mild steel.
As its handle it gets handled but it shows how little has work off after about 4 years use.
Attachment 475235
Have also used the much quicker Hydrogen peroxide and salt method but I don't think the results are as good as the fume bluing. Its OK for basic stuff.
There's WIP for that further along in the same thread I've linked to below.
I have posted a detailed recipe of the fume method in the MW forums here
More metal bluing
They are sourced from Timbecom - not the best, as the screw to plastic handle "bond" is a tad weak.Quote:
Were the hold downs a proprietary device? They look a little too "cast" to be shop made.