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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Bob
    The table was posted on the metalwork forum which is why I missed it. It came up very well. Although I don't think I will need to take any special precautions for my plate, being stainless steel,
    This is a really good move. FWIW my experience is that not all stainless is completely rust proof and there are several things I have made in my shed out of stainless that eventually have rusted. Two examples are the steel straps I used to hold up some of my DC ducting and some stainless sheet that I used to make a mini-metal cutting table saw. Anyway lets see what happens. I think some wood resins don't play all that well with some types of stainless.

    I am interested by your bluing process. I had always thought this was achieved by heating boiled linseed oil onto a surface.
    There are a zillion methods. Dipping hot workpieces into various oils is technically called "oil blackening" and is not a bluing process. Bluing process range from the very slow "doing everything from first principles" of "fume bluing" thru to almost instant, but quite expensive, "paint it on" solutions. The best bluing commercial solutions are not available here in Oz and they are considered as dangerous goods so cannot be sent through regular mail - I have tried multiple times to do this.

    I had thought it was used on the splines for back saws. Have I got this wrong or are there two processes which have a similar description? I get the impression your bluing (nothing to do with intense discussions with SWMBO) could also be described as fuming (still nothing to do with domestic disputes ).
    I have tried several methods. The one I like is called "fume bluing" and involves deliberately rusting the pieces in a mixed vapour of water, nitric and HCl. It origins are medieval and was used by armourers and producers of early firearms. It produces a fine red rust which is then converted to black oxide - see WIP link below. If multiple layers are used the colours change with each successive layer from gunmetal grey, thru to black-brown, then deep black, and then if you squint hard enough it supposedly develops a hint of deep blue? (I have yet to see this). This process is slooooooooooow, and mainly used by purists but the results can be very satisfying especially off there is fine detail involved.

    This is the brake handle I made for my De Prony Horsepower measuring rig. The handle is just mild steel.
    As its handle it gets handled but it shows how little has work off after about 4 years use.
    Brake-handle.jpg

    Have also used the much quicker Hydrogen peroxide and salt method but I don't think the results are as good as the fume bluing. Its OK for basic stuff.
    There's WIP for that further along in the same thread I've linked to below.

    I have posted a detailed recipe of the fume method in the MW forums here
    More metal bluing

    Were the hold downs a proprietary device? They look a little too "cast" to be shop made.
    They are sourced from Timbecom - not the best, as the screw to plastic handle "bond" is a tad weak.

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  3. #17
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    Nov 2004
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    Thanks Bob for such a comprehensive reply. I will look into all of your suggestions as it is an interesting subject.

    Stainless steel is an interesting material. Generally it is regarded as non magnetic and this is the big giveaway until you start cutting and grinding and can see the different style of sparks and experience some difficulty with the likes of drilling. However, a little like, carbon steels, there are a multitude of types and I have no idea what I have.

    The chromium content of stainless gives the resistance to rusting. I believe it varies between 11% and 18%, which would explain why some stainless steel can develope mild rusting.

    The one that intrigues me is stainless cutlery. The knives are magnetic but forks are not. I think the level of nickel influences the degree of magnetism. Also some stainless is magnetic in the annealed state but not once pressed or formed.

    It is a big subject, which I should not delve too far into here. Suffice to say the metal I am working with is stainless steel.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Hi Paul; I’m enjoying the build!

    I used to have a Triton router table and bought the upside down jigsaw mounting kit with the intention of using it as a bandsaw substitute, however it really didn’t work very well . I found that when using the thinner blades needed for tight internal curves (such as the inside of a saw handle) the blade would deflect alarmingly and start cutting at an angle. The support arm was pretty much useless as it was pressed steel with plastic fittings, it provided very little in the way of lateral support unless you were cutting something soft like Kraft cheese slices (warm, not straight out of the fridge).

    I can definitely endorse Handyjack’s suggestion of a scrollsaw! On Sunday I finally found the right Round Tuit to do some more work on The Great American crosscut saw and cut the hand hole out in the handle. I considered using the jigsaw for this but decided to use my crappy old GMC scrollsaw with a cheap-arsed pinned blade; it had no issues coping with the thick oak. As I have a bandsaw the outside profile will be cut using that but I would have reached for the scroll saw again rather than the jigsaw. It is a lot slower... but you do get to sit down and concentrate!
    Chief

    As I mentioned to Handyjack I will come back on the scroll saw aspect as I have considered that.

    I was enjoyingthe build until a few moments ago when I had a major hiccup,but will have to get back on that one later.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  5. #19
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    Well, as I hinted in the previous post, the day did not go according to plan. In fact it was very frustrating. It started off well as I realised the aluminium table had a threaded hole in just about the right place for a piece of flat bar to mount the support arm. Initially I thought it was metric but this was not the case. It was 3/8" imperial and as luck would have it I had a set of three taps for that thread. I drilled the hole and inserted the first tap. Initially it went well but the shallow tap was not threading cleanly. I sped up the drill, it started to bite in and then jammed: No matter. Pull up the drill so reverse is automatically selected which I did and it snapped off the tap at plate level.

    P1060118 (Medium).JPG

    Try as I might I could not budge that tap. I drilled around it, I tried to grab it with vice grips, I tried to turn it anti-clockwise using a punch, I drilled out the hole larger from the underside and tried punching it though. I broke three small twist bits, bent two punches and broke one punch. Got nowhere. Time to drill another hole. I did that and tapped it easily with the hand tap. That was after about two hours of cursing.

    P1060119 (Medium).JPG

    Then I bent up the beam that will extend out to the jigsaw blade and give support via bearings. I ground a small bevel on the edges for a weld profile.

    P1060120 (Medium).JPG

    I mentioned earlier that the welding was going to create an awful mess. It did and when the plastic catches fire it stinks too. The additional problem was that my auto darkening welding helmet, which was admittedly on the blink (almost literally), decided it was not going to play ball. It would only go to dark mode. Without a flip up front lens I could not see what I was doing. That really makes welding difficult!

    P1060121 (Medium).JPGP1060123 (Medium).JPG
    The weld will probably clean up well enough, but the plastic cannot be smoothed with power tools as it heats up and "curdles. " Sorry to show both sides. I just thought you would like to see that they are equally ugly, for the moment at any rate!

    I have also cut some timber to use as an infil, but I am still working on that. I also will have to buy some small bearings as the smallish bearings I have are going to be too large. It really needs bearings the size that are commonly associated with router bits. About 12mm OD should be about right for the bearings either side of the blade. A slightly larger bearing can be used for the one behind the blade.

    I won't be getting too much done for a few days now as I am back at work. Hopefully next week will be better.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  6. #20
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    The new welding helmet arrived today and I was able to secure the support arm to a piece of flat bar that in turn is screwed to the table:

    P1060127 (Medium).JPG

    The previous welding was cleaned up and you can see the extra hole where I broke off the tap. That will have to be filled either with weld or maybe bog .

    P1060128 (Medium).JPG

    and this timber will be used to infil the chanel and also provide something easy to fix the adjustable bearings.

    P1060129 (Medium).JPG

    Apologies. It's a slow job. Other stuff keeps getting in the way.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  7. #21
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    Paul some progress,is better than no progress,
    How will the top of the blade be held,guided.
    Will you be able to insert the blade easily?.

    Looking forward to hearing it roar.
    Or maybe just a nice light machine noise would be nice.

    Cheers Matt

  8. #22
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    Are you going to build a guide assembly similar to that used on a bandsaw? And just as rigid? That would certainly help reduce the blade wandering off at an angle like my old Triton jigsaw attachment thingy was prone to doing.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  9. #23
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    The quick answer to both Simplicity and The Chief is "yes." Similar to guide bearings on a bandsaw. I have just got home from a wild night Friday night party: Actually Friday is the only real part of that statement and have received a notification that my bearings from China have been cancelled as they are "out of stock."

    If I was a cynical person I would say I was a casualty of the Aussie/Chinese conflict. Consequently I will go down in the anals of history with the demise of the beef trade, the cessation of the barley exports, the execution of an Aussie citizen for political purpose and the embargo on small quantities (5) of bearings.



    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  10. #24
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    If I was a cynical person I would say I was a casualty of the Aussie/Chinese conflict. Consequently I will go down in the anals of history with the demise of the beef trade, the cessation of the barley exports, the execution of an Aussie citizen for political purpose and the embargo on small quantities (5) of bearings.




    Welcome to the Brave new world brought too you by the Chinese communist party.

    Maybe a review of 1984 an Animal farm.

    Cheers Matt
    Surely you can get some bearing closer to home Paul.

    Regards
    Paul[/QUOTE]




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Consequently I will go down in the anals of history
    Please be a typo... please be a typo... please be a typo...
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Please be a typo... please be a typo... please be a typo...




    "Annals." (get it right stupid ).

    Phew! That could have been unpleasant.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  13. #27
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    ...
    Originally Posted by Bushmiller
    Consequently I will go down in the anals of history.......


    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Please be a typo... please be a typo... please be a typo...

    No, you are a little wide of the mark, CT. Bushie is obviously an innocent victim of the deviant autocorrect "service".

    Annal is defined in the Oxford English Dictionary as a "concise historial record in chronological order...". That word probably does not appear in Mr Webster's abomination, which is so anal about so many topics.

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post

    Annal is defined in the Oxford English Dictionary as a "concise historial record in chronological order...". That word probably does not appear in Mr Webster's abomination, which is so anal about so many topics.


    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Surely you can get some bearing closer to home Paul.

    Regards
    Paul



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro[/QUOTE]

    Matt

    I was being lazy. I guess it serves me right for not buying locally. I will call in at one of the bearing specialists in Toowoomba next time I go there. On the subject of China what did we expect? Taunt a tiger and be prepared to be scratched! Only a problem if you mind being scratched.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Matt

    I was being lazy. I guess it serves me right for not buying locally. I will call in at one of the bearing specialists in Toowoomba next time I go there. On the subject of China what did we expect? Taunt a tiger and be prepared to be scratched! Only a problem if you mind being scratched.

    Regards
    Paul[/QUOTE]

    An remember Paul,
    All saws are equal and some are more equal than others,
    I think that’s true for bearings too [emoji6].


    Cheers Matt

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