Thread: Table Mounted Jigsaw

Hi Paul. Have you tried some of the reverse toothed blades (cuts on the down stroke in normal application, so upstroke for you)? I wonder if they would make any difference. I am also assuming that you can't use the plunge function to help with ripping.

Bohdan and Mountain Ash

Thank you for your comments. The fundamental problem is the depth of cut. Some cutting depth is lost with the plate insert (aout 12mm) and the curved cutting blade is then just too short. I need 25mm clearance beneath the bearing arm. It also means the bearings cannot protrude below the bearing arm and the larger the bearing the higher the potential contact point goes. I say "potential" becase they do not have to be in contact when the blade is straght: Only if it is forced off to one side by cutting pressure. I will look at placing the side bearings below the back bearing.

If I was cutting 10mm ply none of this would be an issue. 24mm hardwood is a very different proposition. I will look at the possibility of perhaps round head brass bolts rather than screws as they have to be adjustable for position. Teeth reversed would tend to force the timber up and away and I think make control awkward. Teeth pointing to the table will hold the work down and at least remove one of the control issues.

Regards
Paul

It’s not too late to reconsider the scroll saw idea....

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

It’s not too late to reconsider the scroll saw idea....

Agreed Chief!!

I am also considering a narrow blade on my bandsaw.

Keeping all options open.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Agreed Chief!!

I am also considering a narrow blade on my bandsaw.

Keeping all options open.

Regards
Paul

Just a quick one, I’m doing a team meeting of one[emoji6].
Grind the back off ,one of blades you already have!.

Cheers Matt.

Matt

An idea that is not without merit, but also not without an issue. I think this is what you mean

P1060181 (Medium).JPG

The shadow and poor photography makes the blade look wider than they are. However the "step" is now on the other side, which means the blade is further away from the back bearing. This is not really an issue. I can either live with it or I can remove the spacer washer from behind the bearing support which will take it further back. You will also note there is not only a difference in length but also a difference in ppi: 14ppi for the curve cut blade and 7.5ppi for the modified blade.

P1060182 (Medium).JPG

There is a huge difference in thickness too at 1.7mm for the modified blade and .9mm for the curved cutter.

P1060183 (Medium).JPG

However, that may all be in my favour as I do not need a fine cut and I do need a bit more rigidity for the work I am doing. I have not been able to test this modification yet as I have another job to do with the router and I am short of time for the moment. I also need to sharpen this modified blade as I overheated it while cutting before so I think it is fairly blunt. That is also why it is a little blackened, but smoke damage!! It is not from the grinding.

"I'll be back." (Apologies to Arnie)

Regards
Paul