Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 29 of 29
Thread: Which Tablesaw again
-
11th May 2005, 02:00 AM #16
Obviously haven't met a faulty safety switch...
Plus, last time I checked you didn't 'need' to use an earth leakage circuit breaker on heavy inductive loads, like refrigerators and large motors due to nuisance tripping from said breakers, provided the circuit was used only for that purpose and not for general usage.
I'm not sure how much further to go on, as you are right in that it's getting pretty technical and if yer not careful the highway will catch fire. But the earth is still a very important part of the pie, and it's dumb technology in that it always does it job, provided it's up to the task. It's also why you can run normal sized cables, but need a huge earth in some cases, simply to make sure the breaker can do what it's supposed to when it's needed. It's also why they say to always use a licensed electrician, because of funny things like that.
It's unusual to get funny stuff, and besides, more than a few guys I know who have licenses probably shouldn't.
-
11th May 2005 02:00 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
11th May 2005, 02:20 AM #17Originally Posted by craigb
(Just being picky)
CheersSquizzy
"It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" {screamed by maths teacher in Year 8}
-
11th May 2005, 09:52 AM #18Originally Posted by vsquizz
BTW I think that the SS is a fine machine, but for mine, I just thought the 10HB was better value.
-
11th May 2005, 08:55 PM #19
any supersaw users here had problems with broken belts, or poor dust collection? I read a few bad reports from people OS on these items. Jet salesman doesnt exactly instill cofidence with his sales technique (I am a full commission salesrep myself), but he tried to assure me that hp doesnt matter if i use the right blade. Im also not impressed with the fence, but otherwise quality seems excellent. Im a believer in always buying the best you can afford and the budget does allow. Also im running power to my rented workshop via extension lead, so 3hp machine may be an issue at 15amp (didnt read that on timbecon or carbatec site).
-
12th May 2005, 12:14 AM #20
I read quite a bit on the Jet SS but it was all ancient history in machinery terms and the few probs (mostly the fence) are "supposed" to have been fixed.
AWR had a bit of a review on the Jet SS last month I think.
It is hard to justify the extra grand if you don't need a slider and are not obsessed with the white paint job like some of the annoying insects up in QLD
CheersSquizzy
"It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" {screamed by maths teacher in Year 8}
-
15th May 2005, 08:53 AM #21New Member
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Indiana USA
- Posts
- 7
Hi, I finally joined this site after enjoying reading everyone's posts. These discussions are much better than any I've found so far on the US sites. I just saw a Delta 36-675 reduced to $317 US at Home Depot. I realize it isn't one of the cabinet saws which seem to be preferred but it's a really big step up from my Sears benchtop. I was thinking that it's too good to pass up, at least that's what I plan to tell my better half and use the money saved on a sliding table.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
rob
-
15th May 2005, 02:26 PM #22Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 73
- Posts
- 195
which saw again????
Welcome aboard Docwood,
You have a greater range to choose from over there - prices are a lot more competitive with your market size. Delta appear to be the "Rolls Royce" marque for table saws. but with everything competitors try a little bet harder - with and without success.
This board usually advises to buy the best you can afford and when you see an offer that is too good to pass up - take it.
regardsSmithy
-
15th May 2005, 09:20 PM #23
G'day Rob welcome,
and I'll just say "what Smithy said"Bruce C.
catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .
-
16th May 2005, 10:51 AM #24New Member
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Indiana USA
- Posts
- 7
thanks for the welcome Smithy and Bruce C. I plan on going to the store in the am and getting the saw. I figure I can always blame you 2 as bad influences and you'll be safe from my wife.
rob
-
27th May 2005, 04:51 PM #25
Getting back to question...
Im also tossing up the virtues of the TSC-10-HB // MJ-2325 10" saw's. It appears to me that the sliding table on the MJ looks good enough for my applications, and its cheaper. I made a table saw for my last project from a large piece of chipbaord, makita 10" a piece of 5mm 30x30 angle iron(fence) and a few saw horses. D O D G E Y!! but highly adjustable in every sense. My tapered table legs looked a treat, and I could not believe my success. Time to get serious though.
Im edging toward the MJ however I hadnt really thought to much about the fact that it cant take dados. If I wanted to slot, whats stopping me from nudging the fence over and passing my stock through to make the slot? Do I need to swap my normal blade with a dado outer blade or chipper to improve or acheive reasonable results?
I guess what Im getting at is, can I remove large amounts of material to create a slot with the MJ at the expense of time? Deans review of the dadonator set makes me want to buy the delta just to use those blades.... once again Im not making clear decisons... Also what are the implications of a 1" arbour? Do all or most blades still come in a 1" option? Is that like buying a betamax tape?
And as far as dust extraction goes, I dont mind doing a bit of "tinkering" to add extra ports, or plugging up holes / regions where the air is leaking in. Is this feasible?
-
27th May 2005, 05:10 PM #26
If it means anything, I've just had excellent service from Leda in Adelaide when ordering some spare parts. The price of the parts was very cheap as well so they don't try to get at you like they do in the car game.
If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
-
29th May 2005, 08:09 AM #27Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2004
- Location
- California USA
- Age
- 73
- Posts
- 133
Hp
There are different ways to rate horse power. Don't be fooled the Jet is a better motor all the way around. Better windings, berrings etc.
You can only run so much horse power on a 110 line or a 220 line. HP is rate by amps and volts that is what counts. You can rate a peak hp not under load which in the end means nothing. You have high torque motors and low ones. When they rate it high in horse power you know it is just to get your eye. you can not run more than a 3 hp on 110 voltes. 220 v motors take half the amps of a 110 line. If you have 30 amp motor on a 110 line you will only need 15 amps to run the same horse power on 220 v. It cost less to run 220v
There are a lot of motors that have the same rating but do not be fooled. They are not the same. Even the starters make a difference.
-
29th May 2005, 03:59 PM #28
Ok
-
4th June 2005, 11:28 AM #29
The 15 amp wiring will be a good investment because if you are thinking of buying more big machines you will need more 15 amp powerpoints.
I have a 15 inch thicknesser and a 17 inch bandsaw which both need 15 amp points as well as the tsc-10hb.:eek:If it goes against the grain, it's being rubbed the wrong way!