Thread: tablesaw query - slag in casting ???

Hi Tony,

I had the exact same problem with the t-track, in 3 places on my 12" saw. I complained to the retailer on the basis that sawdust and chips might fall into the cracks and block the mitre. The retailer showed me the saw on the showroom floors and said that most of the contract saws would have these "cosmetic problems". He said I could dig out the slag and see how far through the holes went. If they did not go all the way I could bog up them up and they would be OK. I was a tad annoyed, why should I be the one doing this I kept saying to him? I thought about it for a weekend and the thought of dismantling the saw and packing it up and getting him to bog it up and then bringing it back and re-assembling it convinced me to try the bogging method. To ease my pain I asked the retailer what else he could do for me and he did offer me a hefty discount on their dust collector kit which I took up.

It still leaves a little sourness in my mouth, I can't understand why they can't unpack the saws, bogem up and sell them as bogged up saws?

Desite the above and the fact that one of the Al turn handles is a touch sloppy the saw runs true and handles some hard work without any problems. I added a router extension wing and a router fence to the saw fence and it all works good.

thanks for the reply, go to agree with you BobL, disappointing to say the least
very shoddy. might have a word and see what they say

i'll have a dig and see how far it goes

no-one else seems to have the problem ?

cheers
tonysa

Fck bogging it up. Send the thing back. It's not right and should be repaired or replaced. You should not have to undertake repair work on a brand new item. :mad:

Dan

Originally Posted by tonysa

Finally had the readies available and picked up a 2325B tablesaw at weekend - little ripper after the triton. so quiet !
mother of a thing to assemble, good thing i have some beefy cousins LOL

anyway having got the beast assembled and cleaned up found that the casting is a bit crook in that the bottom of part of one of the the T track (50mm by 1/2 width and half way up edge of track) has fair amount of what looks like unrecovered slag, very pitted and black. The mitre runs through it ok.

There's also a small bulge in the casting 10mm diameter, 2 mm high halfway between edge and saw aperture and in line with saw. Can't see cause but someone at the factory had given it a once over with some emery paper.

Should I be concerned or leave it as it is ?
Perhaps I'm being too picky ???
Anyone else had this experience ?
Bit disappointed in the standard of workmanship/ quality control.

Apart from that very pleased with it.

I'll try a photo in daylight, flash doesn't pick it up so good.

thanks
tonysa

G'day Tonysa,
I also recently purchased a MJ2325B from C/Tec in Brisbane - the only slag bits I have are indeed cosmetic and the tracks are fine. A bit hard to see when they are in a box. I can understand your annoyance and why it is difficult to solve -that being said - why can't just the top of your machine be replaced -let's face it - it's not a feature it is a fault - perhaps you should mention that it is a potential safety problem. eg pushing mitre gauge through slot, catches due to buildup in a faulty track and.........


My only problems [so far and hopefully no further - in my case 200+kg of machine and the place I bought it is 275km south of where I live.] have been
1. I had to adjust the stop block on the tilt as when at 90 degrees it was only at about 88-89 degrees - only took a couple of minutes and now is fine.
2. Perhaps the most annoying and took a little head scratching to solve - the red throat plate was 0.6mm below the surface of the table - appears to be very minor but a real PITA when small bits get caught when going past the blade. To cut a long story short an alum beer can is 0.1mm thick - possibly use 6 layers, how to hold the shims in place... etc etc...... - I finally cracked the answer by using a large fridge magnet which was 200 x 100mm - I cut it into strips and it held itself to the tabletop while I screwed the plate back - the magnet was 0.7mm but had enough give in it to compress down to ensure a level surface.
I have also replaced the saw guard hose with an old vacuum cleaner hose - the original was not long enough and would get in the way when sawing a small sheet - it is now long enough to come in from the side and over the top of the fence rather than hang down the back.
Hope this helps you out and you get your problem solved.
Regards,
Bob

thanks bob and danp, had a closer look and found out its more cosmetic than a problem

my saw blade though is 1mm off square at the rear compared to front against mitre track.
talked to the supplier and in all fairness offered to come out and align, but i'll have a go first. there's a plate that forms the pivot which is fastened to to with 4 bolts. Its these bolts that adjust the blade. Sat job - looks like it could be a real PITA.

my throat plate also sits lower than table top and apparently there should be 4 adjustment hex screws - they obviously forget them in my case, so I'm going to use your idea and get some magnetic strips. thanks for the suggestions. later on, i'll drill and tap some holes and put some adjusting screws in. for now will have to make zero clerance inserts 3.5 mm thick

the dealer also suggested chamfering ALL edges (1 -2 mm), including the throat plate edges and mitre track. stops any odd burrs etc scratching what your sawing

and now to bed, just come back from AAMI Stadium watching crows give essendon a good thrashing, sad part is my boy is mad keen essendon supporter - mad fool LOL


cheers
tony

Originally Posted by tonysa

....

my throat plate also sits lower than table top and apparently there should be 4 adjustment hex screws - they obviously forget them in my case, so I'm going to use your idea and get some magnetic strips. thanks for the suggestions. later on, i'll drill and tap some holes and put some adjusting screws in. for now will have to make zero clerance inserts 3.5 mm thick

cheers
tony

"There should be 4 adjustment hex screws..."
- mine obviously comes from the same factory as yours as I don't have them either. Not really into metal work and having done very little of it before I will probably require some assistance re the drill & tap bit if I want to go this way.
Re the fridge magnet mat material - I have modified it a little further as I was not totally happy with the 0.1mm compression - I found a set of magnets which were exactly 0.6mm and have since replaced the 0.7mm - the material is now also "stuck" to the plate rather than the thin recess in the throat plate hole - so check around as I have found that various types/shapes of mat magnets come in a variety of thicknesses - I also remove the advert/blurb on the front of the magnet by soaking briefly in shellite - the label basically slides off.
Keep us posted,
Regards,
Bob

Forget the standard throat plate. Wipe it with oil, put it in a plastic bag and put it away in a cupboard for when you sell your saw(will make your saw look like new).

Then build a few zero clearance throat plates, one for each blade, Dado's etc. Also one for bevel cutting. Search for Sturdee Jigs in the forum for some excellent examples.

Once you've made and used a zero clearance plate you'll never use anything else.

cheers greg, i;ll have a hunt
the standard plate has one helluva gap, lost all sorts of things down it already, and some things went shooting across the shed at high velocity

i sure need zero clearance plates, it'll be interesting to see what sturdee has come up with, especially the bevel cut.

can't fit dado in this model, no great sweat, have the router

thanks for the heads up

i have the saw parallel to mitre track, wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. The 90 degree mitre setting was way out by 2 mm over 30 - that was easy to remedy.

cheers
tonysa