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30th January 2007, 04:33 PM #1
Is Timber Sap and Resin bad for my tools
After even a short period of time my hands and my tools become covered in a sticky mixture of Sap and Resin. This sap stains my hands and it can takes days to remove it from my hands.
My question is however regarding the effect this Sap and Resin will have on my tools long term. Will it rust, or degrade my tools prematurely if the Sap and Resin is not removed asap?
I personally do not like the look of dirty tools, so I make up a bath of metholated spirits and sock my tools fully dismantled followed by a scrub with some 0000 steel-wool, and a toothbrush. Then a dry it with a clean cloth an apply liberally with camellia oil. Is this overkill or is this or am I doing more harm then good?
Can you use to much camellia oil? I always wipe away excess before I use the tool, but it should do it no harm to cover ever little part of the tool.
Also are their other ways to clean the Sap and Resin of my tools?
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30th January 2007, 09:39 PM #2
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30th January 2007, 11:05 PM #3
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30th January 2007, 11:10 PM #4.
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Sap and resin deposits increases friction and reduces cutting efficiency which means you have to force tools more to do the same cutting. This wears out hand tools and overheats powertools.
I use Simple Green for my TS blades - lay the blade down in a plastic flower pot drip tray - spray both sides with SG and leave to soak for 10-15 mins - wash with water. Mr Muscle works OK too. However, I find it needs a couple of goes with sheoak resin. It's also a bit messier and maybe a bit more expensive ?
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30th January 2007, 11:27 PM #5
Thumbs my man. I have read that Lonnie Bird - famous American woodworker detests Camelia oil, although I have not had any problems with it. I have recently obtained a blade/cutter cleaner from Carbide Tool Industries. Forget the name but they only sell one brand. I have found it to be extremely effective when when cleaning router bits and saw blades.
Les
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31st January 2007, 12:07 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Use fresh lemon juice to clean your hands, it dissolves it right away.
An old chippy told me this one and it works really well.
Warning though, you will find out if you have any small cuts or grazes very quickly.
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31st January 2007, 12:50 AM #7
Lemon juice huh?
I have some citric acid, I might just give it a shot.
Might work on the crudded up stove bits we got here too...
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31st January 2007, 12:08 PM #8
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31st January 2007, 12:36 PM #9
Thank you for your feedback.
I will try turps next time with steel whool. turps has not given me any bad vibes yet.
The next question do you do it?
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31st January 2007, 12:40 PM #10
Thank you for your feedback.
I will try turps next time with steel wool. turps has not given me any bad vibes yet.
The next question is how often do you do it? Since it takes only a few hours for your tools to gum up. So do you think spending an hour cleaning your tool's every time you work in the shed, to be to excessive. Or is once a week, month, a better choice depended on use.
I think is better to clean up after every shed time because that way you its all ready for next time.
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1st February 2007, 11:50 AM #11
I've tried meths, turps, oven cleaner, eucalyptus oil and simple green. By far the most effective and least odourous is Simple Green. (It even comes in a Lemon Scented version.) I soak my sawblades for a couple of hours/overnight in a shallow bath (plastic bucket lid), and it turns the pitch into a residues that comes off with a few swipes of a toothbrush. I also soak router bits, drill bits, etc, in it to achieve sparkly newness
My interval between sawblade cleanings is about a year, but it would depend a lot on the type of wood you're cutting.
Wouldn't steel wool dull the blades?Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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1st February 2007, 12:12 PM #12
I forgot to mention that I am Neanderthal - that the gunk is mostly from the body of my planes, spokeshave, and handsaws. Generally water does not o with such tools.
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1st February 2007, 11:43 PM #13.
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Just thought I'd post that I just finished cleaning the filthiest gummed up chain from a chainsaw that I have ever seen using Simple Green. The chain was completely black , baked on resin that had been sitting on the chain for about 10 years when I last got it back from BIL and I threw it in the junk box. I was cleaning up and almost just threw the chain out. Anyway, 2 soaks x 2 hours with a vigorous scrubing using a nylon brih and it looks nice and shiny and it looks like it has plenty of metal left on the teeth.
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2nd February 2007, 01:15 AM #14
Where do you buy Simple Green?
I found this - Simple Green website but no AUS info
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2nd February 2007, 07:22 AM #15
I tried my locals Bunnings about a year ago, and they'd never heard of it. Then I saw it there a couple of weeks ago. I think Bunnings in the eastern states have been carrying it for a while.
Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.