Thread: What Tool would be best to Mortise into Extruded Aluminium Ribs?...

If it was me I would make a template out of MDF and some how clamp it to the door frame and then with a router with a template guides route it out. You would need to have the MDF thick enough to be just above that out side flange.

Couldn't see your second photo. However, I would use a Dremel (or similar) with cut-off disc and a power file.

Dear Barry & Hop,

Barry - that's quite a novel approach; a little complex, heavy, and "juggly", but I guess that would sort of be the best (or perhaps the only...) way to do it from a Mortising approach (and that's what I asked...). So I'll certainly keep it on board, because Beggars can't be Choosers. I'd have to get some sort of long-shank cylindrical Silicon Carbide disc with a smallish diameter to make it work...

Hop - there's only 13mm at best between the 2nd and 3rd ribs from the left (which is the wider side from which I'd have to cut sideways with a Dremel-type disc of some sort...) Most of the Discs are over 20mm in diameter, and a worn one that was only 1/2" in diameter would get me nowhere (& very slowly at that...) A Power File would be too thick too. But thanks for replying all the same, and welcome to the Forums . As a matter of fact you've inspired me to pop over to the Dremel website and see if they've got some sort of small-diameter toothed metal "flush"-cutting disc.

Guys, I'm also starting to think about maybe some sort of Alligator-type Snips - hopefully setup along the levered-style of a pair of Wiss or Bolt-Cutters so that I've got some real leverage with them. They'll have to have thin (as in height) jaws, though...

I might also pop over to the Renovate Forum and see if there's any Locksmiths hanging around over there...

Many Thanks,
Batpig.

Thanks for the welcome.
Perhaps I misunderstood - and I managed to see your second pic somehow this timet. Often you can slot the rib in sections and then snap off each section with a small pair of vise grips or multi grips or shifter (ie work it back and forth and it will come away). Then you can put the nose of the power file in and clean up any dags.
Oh...... and...... I am a locksmith!

Dear Hop,

Originally Posted by Hop

Oh...... and...... I am a locksmith!

Sweeeet...

Originally Posted by Hop

Often you can slot the rib in sections and then snap off each section with a small pair of vise grips or multi grips or shifter (ie work it back and forth and it will come away).

Makes sense, but the big question is - how to cut the said slots in the ribs? I guess you're figuring to do it with the Dremel (well, Ozito...). I'd have to hold it at some funny angles (since I broke the flexible shaft for it just last week...), but I suppose it's sort of "do-able". I might have to get myself a 5-pack of those rediculously overpriced slightly-larger Reinforced Discs that they do, in order to tackle the little Flanges that are sticking out sideways off the 4th rib from the left...

Originally Posted by Hop

Then you can put the nose of the power file in and clean up any dags.

Hey, I look for excuses to buy tools just as much as the next man, but that's a pretty small excuse for a pretty big sticker-priced tool! I could probably just have a bit of a grind away at the dags with a Silicon Carbide bit on the Dremzito...

Thanks for wading in Hop! It's reassuring to know that there's no secret little "Magic Tradies' Trick" way to do it before you start doing it the hard way...

Best Wishes,
Batpig.

Originally Posted by Batpig

Makes sense, but the big question is - how to cut the said slots in the ribs? I guess you're figuring to do it with the Dremel (well, Ozito...). I'd have to hold it at some funny angles (since I broke the flexible shaft for it just last week...), but I suppose it's sort of "do-able".

you could always try cutting the flanges with one of the grinding or engraving bits


ian

Dear Gentlemen,

Fat Lady has sung. Didn't buy the Power File... (Would have been better off if I did, though...)

First photo shows roughly about 2/3rds of the little Cutting Disks for the Dremzito that I wore down or broke in the course of the exercise... (Had to use Cutting Disks to grind dags etc. with because proper Grinding Disks proved to be worse than useless on the aluminium...)

Second photo shows new Catch in place.

Best Wishes,
Batpig.

Yeow! That was quite a few cutting disks! Can I ask: were they brand-name disks or just the cheap generic bundles? You don't have any small grey stones for the Dremzito?

The result looks good though.

(Oh... and there is a secret Tradies' trick to making this sort of job easier. It's called "give it to the Apprentice." )

Dear Skew,

Yes, they were the "cheapies" alright . Straight out of that 2-million-pce Rotary-Tool Accessory Kit that the BigB flogs off for about $20! I bought the thing a couple of years ago just to get the dozen or so green Silicon-Carbide Grinding-Stones that are in it, in order to be able to grind aluminium with them, but I've never had any luck with them whatsoever...

Anyway, putting the Lock Catch in was the last straw, because as I said in the previous post, I actually had to do all the grinding with the Cutting-Disks due to the uselessness of the Kit's Grinding-Stones. I actually started another thread just recently in this same sub-forum on the subject. There's a photo in it of an AlOx, and two SiC Grinding-Stones - but all three of them are smeared with aluminium... (as in very "non-plussed"...)
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=94078

Best Wishes,
Batpig.

I know the ones... bought one or six over the years myself. When one wanders in to buy a pack of wheels and sees that bundle sitting there for practically the same price...

They're a false economy though. The AlOx stones seem to be made of clay! I went to profile a HSS tool with one and in the blink of an eye it was down to the arbour. I'm pretty sure the orange and green wheels are just the same stuff, with a touch of food dye.

A case of I should know better... (but I'll probably still buy another pack. )

Originally Posted by Batpig

Dear Skew,

Yes, they were the "cheapies" alright . Straight out of that 2-million-pce Rotary-Tool Accessory Kit that the BigB flogs off for about $20! I bought the thing a couple of years ago just to get the dozen or so green Silicon-Carbide Grinding-Stones that are in it, in order to be able to grind aluminium with them, but I've never had any luck with them whatsoever...

There's a photo in it of an AlOx, and two SiC Grinding-Stones - but all three of them are smeared with aluminium... (as in very "non-plussed"...)
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=94078

Best Wishes,
Batpig.

That's because aluminium oxide and silicon carbide wheels aren't meant for grinding aluminium , the wheel loads up with aluminium rendering the wheel useless.Can cause overheating and in balance in the wheel which can cause a wheel to fracture.
There is a special wheel for aluminium with a soft bond , seen them used in a foundry for fettling aluminium castings .Cant remember the wheel type at this time .
Silicon carbide wheels were designed to grind tungsten carbide tool bits.

May find some info on the Norton website.

Kev

Dear Kev,

Originally Posted by Woodlee

There is a special wheel for aluminium with a soft bond , seen them used in a foundry for fettling aluminium castings

That is a very handy bit of info to store away in the back of my mind. The only problem is - even if we could come up with the proper name for it, nobody's going to be doing one the size of a Dremel disk, hey? (and it's always the Rotary-Tool that one seems to reach for when playing with aluminium...)

Still, the Cutting-Wheels seemed to grind the stuff well enough. I bought a Flexovit "Aluminium" Cutting-Wheel for my 5" Grinder last week, and it didn't look all that different to the normal metal-cutting variety (just a little bit more dark burgundy-ish... )

Thanks Kev and Best Wishes,
Batpig.

this info is too late i know...but might put in back of head for some other time..
just use a sharp every day common stanly chisel. it works fine.. the only trick is keep the chisel as flat to the surface as possible. ...and yes if you take a series if chop like shapes , just like a traditional lumber jack would a tree. it take about 5 minutes only to to the whole job...then 5 minutes to resharpen the chisel... just one more trick that i do... my site chisels that do 70% of our work are sharpened with an oil stone and a much steeper angle than you would a fine joiners chisel. this is because it gives us a robust sharp blade.. not to cut the hairs off your arm. but will cut fj pine, maple and even alloy all day just nicely. it is also quick and easy to bring back to sharp. as a bonus it is also far less lighty to chip and tooth.
glen boulton