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Thread: What type of drill bit?
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28th July 2004, 10:01 PM #1
What type of drill bit?
I am nearing the fun part of making my self a bench, and just have a few quick questions.
What type of drill bit would you use to drill the dog holes?
I'm so far leaning in the direction of a saw tooth forstner bit or an auger bit from bunnings.
Things to consider are:
Quality of hole.
Depth of hole (up to 90mm)
Amount of holes, there will be at least 48 of them in f17 grade hardwood. :eek:
I note that a forstner bit has two cutting faces, which should stay sharper, longer.
I have a forstner bit (32mm) which I used for the M&T's for the frame of the bench, and I'm not real impressed with it. It got hot very quick (low RPM) and then blunt very quick. It was a cheepie from Carba Tec ($13).
It did cut OK.
Would I have more luck with a better quality bit?
And how far apart would you space the holes?
Thanks.
Ben.
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28th July 2004, 10:50 PM #2
A spade bit will do it quite well provided you keep it sharp. But they only need a light rub with a file to do that.
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29th July 2004, 04:00 AM #3
Ben
If you wish to use the Veritas range of accessories (recommended) then you need 3/4" holes.
You will get the cleanest and most accurate cut from a plunge router.
After this use a Forstner bit in a portable drill press or a homemade jig.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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29th July 2004, 02:59 PM #4
A bit from left field here but...........
My bench is a a few sheets of MDF on to of a welded steel frame.
I used a decent Sutton spade bit to drill the dog holes. The holes arent exactly accurate but the upshot is that the standard dowel I sue for bench dogs fits nice and snug-tight. I can set it at any level (even 3mm above the benchtop) and it sits there nice and firm. Lucky to be sure, but perfect.Cheers,
Adam
------------------------------------------
I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia
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29th July 2004, 11:13 PM #5
Heya Ben
Funny old world - I'm at exactly the same stage as you with my workbench. Based it loosely on Bob Key's "ultimate', but using the Veritas bench dog with 3/4" holes.
I'm going to do it like I have the rest of the bench; by hand, with a Good 'ol Stanley brace, with a honed modern auger - sandvik and a few others do a good double cutting job. When I hogged out the mortices (from very dense old h/wood from the Supply River Bridge) I found it HEAPS easier to have an oil pad handy. Used Yates White Oil - a pure petroleum oil. A wee wipe and she's apples. Very good when planing too.
www.terraclavis.com/bws/benches.htm - 30k
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29th July 2004, 11:43 PM #6
Thanks for the replys guys.
I do have a 3/4 inch spade drill bit (irwin) but it's cuts a little ruff, to many torn fibers for this job.
I did like the nice smooth cut left by the Forstner bit, and I'm told that these leave the cleanest hole, I'm mainly concerned about cuttin edge life and depth of hole (my forstner bit has about 70mm max before the chuck gets to timber level).
I do have a Z-vise and can use that as a bit of a drill press jig, So that aspect shouldn't be a problem.
I don't have a plunge router or a 3/4 inch plunge bit, so that's not really going to work.
TassieKiwi, using a brace? you'll look like Popeye when you done.
Ben.
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30th July 2004, 10:28 AM #7
Ben,
If you are worried about the cutting edge life of a forstner bit, go for a High Speed Steel bit because they last longer (HSS v. HCS ).
You can also get a Forstener Bit Extension Bar that will give you a deeper hole.
SlavoIf I do not clearly express what I mean, it is either for the reason that having no conversational powers, I cannot express what I mean, or that having no meaning, I do not mean what I fail to express. Which, to the best of my belief, is not the case.
Mr. Grewgious, The Mystery of Edwin Drood - Charles Dickens
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30th July 2004, 10:46 AM #8
No sweat - only a few minutes each hole. The bits I use are an auger type with a wide machined flute, a lead screw, and most importantly a cutter which scribes the circumfrence of the hole before the auger bites. Using a brace, one can 'lean' the auger over slightly to cut all of the fibers as the centre lead screw bores in, so that when the main cutter bites there is no side tearout of the wood.
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...Type=BM1000002
Last edited by RETIRED; 2nd December 2004 at 12:44 PM.
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30th July 2004, 11:19 AM #9
Thanks again guys.
TassieKiwi.
I do like hand tools, and My father has a brace, but I'll use a power drill this time.
Slavo.
I wish I'd read that info about HCS forstners before I bought the other one. It's useless. It went blunt far to quickly, I got impatient and the result is not pretty.
The entire bit has darkened a few shades from the heat (except for about the last 35mm of the shaft) and I think it might be a throw away.
HSS forstner it is.
Ben.
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1st December 2004, 02:57 PM #10
Holes wot i drilled wiv auger.
The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde
.....so go4it people!
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1st December 2004, 03:06 PM #11
Oh what a lovely pair of holes. I do like the way they are nice and round and sit so nicely in the bench top.
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1st December 2004, 03:30 PM #12
You could use both. The Forstner to start with and an auger to get the last bit of depth.
Bob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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2nd December 2004, 09:00 AM #13Originally Posted by TermiteThe only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde
.....so go4it people!
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2nd December 2004, 12:39 PM #14Senior Member
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Woodworkers Supply sells carbide forstner bits in conventional lengths. Bulldog sells longer ones that will drill a 6" hole but I did have some problems with the first set I bought (quality control issues).
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2nd December 2004, 11:38 PM #15
Gday Dennis, I suspect Termite was just muckin' about.
Those holes look like my eyes after a big night
This thread is giving me the brace and bits
Cheers..........Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.