Thread: Best value mitre saw up to around $1000 (give or take)

As a Carpenter by trade, when I was self employed I had a job of fixing out a couple of rooms in a house (architraves and skirtings). . I have an ELU "Flip Saw" which is still very accurate even though its 30 plus years old. The material I had to use was 90mm wide so cutting mitres was too wide for the ELU This saw is so handy for fix outs but I needed to be a bit quicker with the cutting process so I bought a Chinese copy of a Hitachi Compound Mitre Saw. I knew I was taking a gamble with this saw but it turned out that it gave a consistently accurate result.

That was over 20 years ago. I often wander through Hammer Barn and check out the latest power tools that are on offer. None of them give me the idea that I should take one home. To me they seem plasticky and feable in their look and in their operation. Some have a nice feel when pulling the saw out for a cut but most of them don't give me a lot of confidence that they will not break.

I know this is not giving you any idea of what to buy, its just a few thoughts on what is on offer.

Oh by the way the Chinese Hitachi is still giving me good cuts even though we are both in retirement
Good luck I will be watching to see how your searching turns out

First up do you mean "Mitre" saw or "Sliding Compound Mitre" saw - there is quite a difference, especially in the price.

I had the similar decision to make 2 years ago and one of my requirements was it had to be stored under a bench so a compact sliding mechanism was essential.
After experiences using a Metabo, Makita and Ryobi at various places I settled on a Bosch Glide saw
Have found it to live up to everything its claimed to be.

The only other contender at the time was the Makita LS1219 (about the same price as the Bosch glider) also can be kept up against a wall.
It got great reviews by a couple of critical and pro woodies on Youtube.
It has a slightly greater width of cut capacity, and a greater angle cutting capacity on one side than the Bosch (the other side is same as the Bosch) but to me the Bosch just seemed sturdier so I went for that one.

Some members here questioned the need for a SCMS but I mill a lot of timber and generate boards >150mm wide so the extra cutting width is useful.
Yes wideboards can be flipped and if there were only a few then that's what I would do.
I've only used the compound angle feature a couple of times but I use the extra width of cut relatively often.

The very annoying thing with any MS or SCMS is the dust collection
I played around with mine for ages (SEE SCMS extraction.) but scroll trough to post 32 to see what I eventually settled on
BTW found using a 3D printed dust ramp just behind the workpiece improves things considerably and this applies whether you use a surrounding duct collectio0n shroud or not.

Originally Posted by chambezio

As a Carpenter by trade, when I was self employed I had a job of fixing out a couple of rooms in a house (architraves and skirtings). . I have an ELU "Flip Saw" which is still very accurate even though its 30 plus years old. The material I had to use was 90mm wide so cutting mitres was too wide for the ELU This saw is so handy for fix outs but I needed to be a bit quicker with the cutting process so I bought a Chinese copy of a Hitachi Compound Mitre Saw. I knew I was taking a gamble with this saw but it turned out that it gave a consistently accurate result.

That was over 20 years ago. I often wander through Hammer Barn and check out the latest power tools that are on offer. None of them give me the idea that I should take one home. To me they seem plasticky and feable in their look and in their operation. Some have a nice feel when pulling the saw out for a cut but most of them don't give me a lot of confidence that they will not break.

I know this is not giving you any idea of what to buy, its just a few thoughts on what is on offer.

Oh by the way the Chinese Hitachi is still giving me good cuts even though we are both in retirement
Good luck I will be watching to see how your searching turns out

Thanks. I know what you're getting at. I'm hoping if I spend $1200 or whatever that it will be for something that will last me for 20 years too. I just need a few reccomendations on these newer models to give the confidence to pick one over another.

Originally Posted by BobL

First up do you mean "Mitre" saw or "Sliding Compound Mitre" saw - there is quite a difference, especially in the price.

I had the similar decision to make 2 years ago and one of my requirements was it had to be stored under a bench so a compact sliding mechanism was essential.
After experiences using a Metabo, Makita and Ryobi at various places I settled on a Bosch Glide saw
Have found it to live up to everything its claimed to be.

The only other contender at the time was the Makita LS1219 (about the same price as the Bosch glider) also can be kept up against a wall.
It got great reviews by a couple of critical and pro woodies on Youtube.
It has a slightly greater width of cut capacity, and a greater angle cutting capacity on one side than the Bosch (the other side is same as the Bosch) but to me the Bosch just seemed sturdier so I went for that one.

Some members here questioned the need for a SCMS but I mill a lot of timber and generate boards >150mm wide so the extra cutting width is useful.
Yes wideboards can be flipped and if there were only a few then that's what I would do.
I've only used the compound angle feature a couple of times but I use the extra width of cut relatively often.

The very annoying thing with any MS or SCMS is the dust collection
I played around with mine for ages (SEE SCMS extraction.) but scroll trough to post 32 to see what I eventually settled on
BTW found using a 3D printed dust ramp just behind the workpiece improves things considerably and this applies whether you use a surrounding duct collectio0n shroud or not.

Sliding compund mitre saw. I don't necessarily need the sliding part just yet but I don't want to be limited in the future. Hoping this is a one time purchase and I can get quite a few years out of it. Thanks for the info. The Makita and the Bosch (both the ones you've mentioned) are the front runners.

Is yours the 305mm? sounds like you're very happy with it. The Bosch I think is the one I'm leaning towards. You would have payed about $1200 or so?

My current Ryobi makes a mess of the garage too but I've been able to limit it to a small area after boxing it within the current bench set up and hooking up dust extraction.

Hi Mark,

Before i got my own saw I used my dad's 30 year old Ryobi that has had a savage life ie dad used it to cut bricks when he paved 300 sqm of back/front yard etc to build a picket fence at my place.

My point is this:
- Almost any mitre saw can serve you for years to come they just need bit of care now and then
- Tools are serviceable, if you're not getting the accuracy you're chasing spend the time checking the tool is doing what its supposed to be doing
- Check your tools that you're using for square, yes a square can be out of square.
- A mitre/SCMS has a certain technique if you want accurate cuts
- You can throw money at a tool, but a brand new tool out of the box can be out of square so you'll need to know how to set it up correctly. Don't just trust the numbers on the stickers.
- I know this one point is bit controversial, but mitre/scms IMO are roughing cut machines. ie used to break down longer material. If you want dead on accuracy use a table saw sled or shooting board afterwards
- Not all cuts need to be square, so if you're fussing over accuracy, but its a board that is being butt joined to another with nails its doesn't need dead on accuracy

In answering your question I've got a Makita LS1016 thats about 7 years old and i see no reason to replace it in the foreseeable future. If i were to replace mine i'll go with whatever fits the bill from the major players ie bosch, makita, dewalt, milwaukee. Unless you're a professional using it daily you'll be hard pressed to notice any difference between their performance once set up correctly. Especially at your price point any machine will satisfy your requirements.

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

Hi Mark,

Before i got my own saw I used my dad's 30 year old Ryobi that has had a savage life ie dad used it to cut bricks when he paved 300 sqm of back/front yard etc to build a picket fence at my place.

My point is this:
- Almost any mitre saw can serve you for years to come they just need bit of care now and then
- Tools are serviceable, if you're not getting the accuracy you're chasing spend the time checking the tool is doing what its supposed to be doing
- Check your tools that you're using for square, yes a square can be out of square.
- A mitre/SCMS has a certain technique if you want accurate cuts
- You can throw money at a tool, but a brand new tool out of the box can be out of square so you'll need to know how to set it up correctly. Don't just trust the numbers on the stickers.
- I know this one point is bit controversial, but mitre/scms IMO are roughing cut machines. ie used to break down longer material. If you want dead on accuracy use a table saw sled or shooting board afterwards
- Not all cuts need to be square, so if you're fussing over accuracy, but its a board that is being butt joined to another with nails its doesn't need dead on accuracy

In answering your question I've got a Makita LS1016 thats about 7 years old and i see no reason to replace it in the foreseeable future. If i were to replace mine i'll go with whatever fits the bill from the major players ie bosch, makita, dewalt, milwaukee. Unless you're a professional using it daily you'll be hard pressed to notice any difference between their performance once set up correctly. Especially at your price point any machine will satisfy your requirements.

Excellent points, thanks.

I've read good, bad, and even great reviews for the saw I own. As a somewhat beginner it can be difficult to explain the problems I've encountred with it. One of the main issues is the blade almost seems to sway during a cut. I can't feel it doing this but the way the cuts turn out makes me think theres some blade movement. It happened with the original blade and its happening with my new blade. The other issue is that if i somehow manage to get a cut bang on 90degrees it's very difficult to return to this position after moving it. Maybe this is common with other saws as well but I'm not sure.

I don't mind if the errors are with me and what I'm doing because I'll figure it out eventually... I just don't want my struggles to be due to poorly made equipment (not saying it is, I'm not quite experienced enough to know yet)

- - - Updated - - -

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

I've got a Makita LS1016 thats about 7 years old and i see no reason to replace it in the foreseeable future. .

Is this the 260mm?

I know what you mean re the ryobi, I had the same beast, it was always going off square,
sometimes I'd check and adjust it and it would still be out

anyway its gone, the nightmare is over

I replaced it with a Metabo 216mm sliding compound mitre saw which I'm more than happy with
old habits with the ryobi often have me checking the new one for square, its always square

Originally Posted by Hodgo

I know what you mean re the ryobi, I had the same beast, it was always going off square,
sometimes I'd check and adjust it and it would still be out

anyway its gone, the nightmare is over

I replaced it with a Metabo 216mm sliding compound mitre saw which I'm more than happy with
old habits with the ryobi often have me checking the new one for square, its always square

Relieving to know it's not just me haha. What did that saw set you back if you don't mind me asking?

Originally Posted by MarkvH

Relieving to know it's not just me haha. What did that saw set you back if you don't mind me asking?

mine was $370, now $410, the 254mm is $559 and the 305mm is $849
Tools Warehouse stock them and have free shipping currently

I might lean toward the makita ls 1019 or ls 1219 for the same reason one might buy a Toyota over a European car - availability of parts. Especially since you want to use yours for 20 years.

Another consideration is a second hand radial arm saw. A scms wont beat a good old wadkin or omga for accuracy, speed or width of cut. Like the sums, they are dust monsters.

Cheers, Zac

Originally Posted by Fergiz01

I might lean toward the makita ls 1019 or ls 1219 for the same reason one might buy a Toyota over a European car - availability of parts. Especially since you want to use yours for 20 years.

Another consideration is a second hand radial arm saw. A scms wont beat a good old wadkin or omga for accuracy, speed or width of cut. Like the sums, they are dust monsters.

Cheers, Zac

I like that the LS1219 has mitre angle locks.

The Bosch GCM 12 GDl doesn't mention whether thats a feature.

I'm thinking my decision is between these two brands. I'll likely get the 305mm as I don't want to regret it down the track (even though I don't need something that big right away)

Originally Posted by MarkvH

Is this the 260mm?

Yes it is. There has only been one time where i wished i had a larger depth of cut. I was making a workbench and didn't have enough cut depth to cut through the legs, i just finished the cut with flush cut hand saw. Takes a few minutes per leg.
Yes i could have gotten 300mm saw, but my table saw is also 10" and i'm definitely not replacing that anytime soon and i like the fact that i can swap the blades around if needed.

Here are my thoughts.
All Mitre Saws that I have used, Makita, Hitachi and Bosch all required "tune up" before usig them. There are some good videos online on how to do this. Most SCMS have deflection so choosing one will the minimal amount is a good place to start. Some mitre saws have a single one piece fence which if requires tuning may cause difficulty in getting it square. Not everyone needs the largest capacity saw also, so choosing one that suits your needs may very well reduce your cost of purchase also.
Most mitre saws have poor dust extraction so this should also be a factor in purchasing one that has a better dust picki=up should also be a consideration, but be prepared to either add another external dust extraction such as from a dust extractor and or build a shroud to minimise dust.

IMO, here are the saws that I have found meet some of the criteria
An older Hitachi C10 FS or FSB Made in Japan, the later ones with a redesigned handle though are prone to cracking. These saws are known for their ability to cut square and have a long life. Typically a lot of these found their way into the building industry and have had a hard life but they are robust and provide good service.
I currently have a Bosch 12" non glide SCMS and it is good and able to be tweaked, dust extraction is not great but I have a 150mm dedicated outlet as well as the factory outlet connected.
I saw a very good condition smaller versoin of the Festool Kapex just in your budget on Gumtree bit I am unsure as to where you are located. The larger version in an earlier interation apparently had an issue which has been rectified in either warranty or the newer model.

Finally, as SCMS are notorious for dust, collection via a vaccuum or DE is a must. Most vacuums with an Aux on can only handle around 1200watts, so choosing a SCMS in that power range might be a consideration.

I would ncourage you to go and check out the various models of SCMS, chenck for blade deflection, ability to zero out the fence ect. Keep an eye out for good used SCMS also, you might come across one that is in VGC. Keep us updated as to your purchase also!
Regards Tony

Originally Posted by MarkvH

Sliding compund mitre saw. I don't necessarily need the sliding part just yet but I don't want to be limited in the future. Hoping this is a one time purchase and I can get quite a few years out of it. Thanks for the info. The Makita and the Bosch (both the ones you've mentioned) are the front runners.

Is yours the 305mm? sounds like you're very happy with it. The Bosch I think is the one I'm leaning towards. You would have payed about $1200 or so?

Yes mine is the 305mm.
The price two years ago was $1099 but I got it while Bosch had a deal that gave the purchaser $200 worth of other Bosch products free. I got a 100T Negative raked tooth blade cuts Al tube and bar really nicely, A beaut Bosch Glue Gun (my old Ozito had finally carked it) and a bunch of cutting discs etc.