Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 29
Thread: Saw versus saw
-
19th December 2005, 11:32 PM #1
Saw versus saw
I recently got my hands on a bowsaw, out of the US (despite their refusal to sell to anyone out of the "Land of the Free etc"). It cost about $US60 including 4 assorted blades. I saw a video by some WW luminary extolling the virtues of these tools, so had to have one.
In the following piccies, I tried it out against ( respectively and in order):
A standard panel saw
A tenon saw
A Jap backsaw
The 28" bowsaw.
I tried these saws on both hard wood and Oregan, cross cut and rip. The results exactly mirrrored the old stager's results!
Naturally the longer the blade, the more teeth in action on any one stroke, but I used exactly 10 strokes for the test. No unkind comments about the lack of verticality please, I was concentrating on getting an equal stroke.
NB; 1,2,3 and 4 correspond the list of saws above.
My only comment would be that the 28" bowsaw is a bit too long and heavy, maybe about 20" would be more manageable - but it does cut quick and fine.
The pictures should give enough detail regarding TPI and kerf.Last edited by Bodgy; 20th December 2005 at 12:13 AM. Reason: no piccies
Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
-
19th December 2005 11:32 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
20th December 2005, 08:11 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2003
- Location
- Central Coast, NSW
- Posts
- 3,330
Where did you buy it ?
Your saw looks like an Ulmia. I've been wanting one of those for a while but havent seen them for sale. I have heard the factory in Germany has closed down - though I am not sure it is true. Can you tell me where you bought it please.
I guess the old bloke you are talking about is the recently departed Tage Fride. I understand he used bow saws for everything - even cutting dovetails - and so do most of his students.
thanks
Arron
-
20th December 2005, 09:42 AM #3
Arron
I got it from www.traditionalwoodworking.com
Problem is they refuse to ship out of US. I got a friend to collect who was in US. The blades are German, William Fisch or something (I'll check later today).
If you could get the blades, it would be easy to make- see Andy Macs post. You can import blades but the freight from Germany is ludicrous.Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
-
20th December 2005, 09:48 AM #4
Correction, this is the URL for the bowsaw (framesaw):
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...p?cPath=37_126Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
-
20th December 2005, 10:14 AM #5
I wonder how bandsaw blades would go?
They are easy to drill a hole in the ends and the frames aren't too hard to make......... what do you thnik?- Wood Borer
-
20th December 2005, 10:22 AM #6
bow saw blade
Originally Posted by Arron
Lo and behold they have an online catalog .In the past they shipped down under.I wonder if a piece of bandsaw blade would work,anyone know?
http://www.frogwoodtools.com/Catalog/49.htm
Let us know how you get on .Regards, Belaforge
-
20th December 2005, 11:05 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2003
- Location
- Central Coast, NSW
- Posts
- 3,330
Re bow saws made from band saw blades
In the past, I've made lots of bow saw using blades made from bandsaws. My experience is that they are typical of so many home-made tools - you make them and think they are wonderful till you use the real thing - then you realise you didnt get it quite right. The bandsaw blades are very narrow so the most you will ever have is a 'scroll bow saw' or 'turning saw' - which is OK for doing tight curves but pretty hopeless as a utility saw and not the sort of thing you would cut dovetails with. Also the teeth on the blandsaw blades are stamped out in such a way that they usually pull to one side or the other. Another problem is they are wretchedly hard to start - at least the coarser ones are. I guess they are made to be used by machine and not by hand - so why would we expect too much out of them.
I attach a photo of some I have made. I have made a number as gifts - I guess they are unlikely to ever be used anyway.
I went through a period of using my bandsaw-blade-bowsaws as utility saws for when I needed a quick but not particularly accurate cut - as there is no doubt they do cut very fast. The problem is you have to detension them after every use and thus it is really more time consuming then a regular saw. I would still like one with a decent, wide, controllable blade - Tage Fride cant be wrong.
Arron
-
20th December 2005, 11:34 AM #8GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2003
- Location
- Central Coast, NSW
- Posts
- 3,330
Clarification
Sorry, just reread my post and realised I was waffling on somewhat. So here is a clarification. You can make a mediocre bow saw out of a bandsaw blade - but you can make a much better one by buying a specialised blade made for the purpose.
Arron
-
20th December 2005, 11:57 AM #9
Thanks for posting the test Bodgy. That is a nice looking saw, but part of me says its like comparing oranges to apples! Are these saws meant to do the same task? I guess with a wider blade like that the bowsaw is meant for a straight cut, and would confirm Arron's point. The saws that I have made (using bandsaw stock) certainly aren't intended for straight cuts, I look at them as robust coping saws, something I reach for instead of turning on the bandsaw, with the added advantage of doubling as a pruning saw when working with branches for rustic work. In that, the blades are as good, if not better, than the one that came standard with the smaller Marples bowsaw. Obviously they are not the same as this (Ulmia?)wide version, and I have heard that the set on bandsaw stock is too wide and allows the blade to wander off track.
BTW thanks for the photos of your home made saws Arraon, as usual very nice looking tools! As for comparing home made tools to commercial ones you are probably right, its the satisfaction that adds to their utility. But occasionally you can have a win!!
Cheers,Andy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
-
20th December 2005, 01:52 PM #10Sorry, just reread my post and realised I was waffling on somewhat. So here is a clarification. You can make a mediocre bow saw out of a bandsaw blade - but you can make a much better one by buying a specialised blade made for the purpose.
I'm with Bodgy - its just that he was smart enough to go buy one; instead of realising he should have bought one 1/2 way through. Sigh.
-
20th December 2005, 10:02 PM #11
Andy, Yes the saw i have, or rather the blades, are made for straight cuts. And, with my limited experience, are magnificent for that. You have illustrated my problem with using bandsaw blades - the width. If you start a straight cut with the bowsaw straight, it stays straight and cuts very quickly with a v narrow kerf.
The reason I went hunting for this was a video out of the library by some US, ex Scandinavian, WW notary. I saw him use his bowsaws for all saw tasks, cut off, dovetails, tenons etc. He was so quick and accurate I almost got a boner.
You are correct that the tension and de-tension is a pain, but, I would suggest, less than that involved with the trad string winder.
The proof of the pudding etc., is that I always reach for it first. I'm in Europe in January and will try and get a smaller one and extra blades from the Krauts.
Clint, mate! No one has ever accused me of being smart before. I don't know what to say. Seriously, I harboured substantial doubts re re-birthing a bandsaw blade. If I can find some blades, I'll make a smaller saw myself, but with a threaded rod as a tensioner - not string (l though I admire Andy's fondness for tradition) nor wire (as with my current model)
In summary, best thing since sliced bread.
Incidentally, I grabbed the wrong end and discovered I had a back-cut saw too. Worked just as well and easier to start.Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
-
20th December 2005, 10:13 PM #12Originally Posted by BodgyIf you never made a mistake, you never made anything!
-
20th December 2005, 10:17 PM #13
Shed, I'd be guessing, but its a hard, light coloured, dense timber with extremely fine grain. I think that Beech was the go. Andy Mac should know.
Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
-
20th December 2005, 10:20 PM #14Originally Posted by BodgyIf you never made a mistake, you never made anything!
-
20th December 2005, 10:23 PM #15
Just a thought, but has anyone used those blades that at used in hand mitre saws? They are wide enough and come in a variety of TPI.
I've been meaning to make a bowsaw out of one for a while...You can never have enough planes, that is why Mr Stanley invented the 1/2s
Similar Threads
-
Bandsaw versus Table Saw
By rhook in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 8Last Post: 18th September 2009, 08:38 AM -
Triton Versus Table Saws
By Graham Sands in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 5Last Post: 10th June 2005, 02:05 PM -
Carba-Tec BS1400 versus SW1401
By AlexE in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 7Last Post: 4th January 2004, 05:03 PM -
Woodies versus Lowlife
By John Saxton in forum ANNOUNCEMENTSReplies: 5Last Post: 19th April 2001, 03:42 PM