Thread: Vertical Panel Saw

John,

My project has gone through a long period of design to get to this stage.

I originally thought about sliding the vertical section complete with saw along horizontally using T-track at both the top and bottom rather than sliding the sheet. I even made up a miniature model ( without saw ) to try it out.

I found that the sliding movement was eratic and not smoothly and the vertical frame kept moving out of square. Whilst that could be fixed by welding the frame, it would have to be made out of steel and thus would be too heavy for the aluminum T-track.

So I looked for the other option of sliding the sheets. All the commercial models I've seen do this as well by turning the saw 90 %. Rather than complicate the saw plate I'll make the plate square so it can be lifted out and re-inserted back horizontally.

I also looked into using the Triton saw plate and track but couldn't get the track in long enough sections so I'm using clear perspex. In line with the saw blade I'll score a groove in the perspex and paint a line in this groove so that it will be easy the set the saw to the line to be cut.

Again KISS in action.

Peter.

Peter,

I've been thinking along exactly the same sort of lines as yourself and will be interested to see your results. I too have a double garage, but only half of it is my "workshop"; the other half belongs to the car. However, the far wall by the car seems to be entirely suitable for a vertical panel saw.

As I'm in the process of upgrading my WC2000 and sliding extension table to a cabinet saw and often cut up full panel sheets now I can see the need for a vertical panel saw.

Are you considering making yours totally vertical when in operation or sloping back a little as in many of the vertical panel saw designs?

In my own preliminary thoughts I was thinking of having the whole panel somehow fold out from the wall at the bottom when required for use and then let it lie flat when not. Just enough to assist the panels overcoming the tendency to follow their gravitational instincts to topple off the whole jig. Otherwise some sort of hold downs will be required which might hinder the horizontal rolling process. Additionally as there is limited space by the car I was thinking the saw vertical sliding arrangement should possibly be removable also.

If you want to use the triton carrage you can make the rails by machining the channel form some rectangular section.
This can be done verrry carefully on the table saw using an aluminium blade and serious holddowns.

When I graduated from the WC2000 to the Supersaw, I decided that my best option for cutting down panels was the EZ Smart Guide system. I can't think of any advantage or capability that a wall panel saw would have over this clever system - the only exception to that being space.

If you don't have the space in or outside your shop (the EZ set-up is portable) to lay a panel of whatever given size flat, then the EZ system is probably not the solution... although, I'm sure an inventive mind could find a way to use the system with a panel supported vertically - quite possibly with less time and trouble and less expense too.

Rod

Bewdynewk, I like the look of the EZ system but I don't like the price tag. As a saw guide it doesn't offer enough advantages over the simple wooden circular saw guide like this one
http://benchnotes.com/Skillsaw%20Gui..._guide_boa.htm

$300 compared to $30? Add a T channel or two and you're able to get close to the full functionality of the EZ system.

The main reason I'm looking at the vertical panel saw is to quickly and easily do square cuts and to do them with repeated accuracy.

One of the added advantages of a VPS is it can also double as a frame for sheet storage. if you can store 4 or 5 full sheets of MDF there as well it becomes more useful. I think in terms of man handling full sheets around on your own and then cutting them, a vertical saw does provide some advantages. But yes you are right, there are many ways to skin a cat.

I located my copy of FWW's "making and modifying machines" with a 2 page article on a shopbuilt panel saw Pages 30 & 31.
If you need a copy drop me a pm with your email address and I will scan and email a copy to you.

Originally Posted by Tonz

As I'm in the process of upgrading my WC2000 and sliding extension table to a cabinet saw and often cut up full panel sheets now I can see the need for a vertical panel saw.

I would like to point out that the Triton sliding extension table can easily be fixed and used with a TS including working and measuring from the extension table fence. If details are required let me know. I've decided that the space needed in the shop to store the extension table can be used better. However not having to move large sheets into the shop is the main reason.

Originally Posted by Tonz

Are you considering making yours totally vertical when in operation or sloping back a little as in many of the vertical panel saw designs?

Yes, it will be on a slight angle. Just found the jig I need to cut the tapers which is a preliminary step.

Originally Posted by Tonz

In my own preliminary thoughts I was thinking of having the whole panel somehow fold out from the wall at the bottom when required for use and then let it lie flat when not. Just enough to assist the panels overcoming the tendency to follow their gravitational instincts to topple off the whole jig. Otherwise some sort of hold downs will be required which might hinder the horizontal rolling process. Additionally as there is limited space by the car I was thinking the saw vertical sliding arrangement should possibly be removable also.

Making it folding is much more difficult to make. Maybe a folding cutting table as per Bitingmidge is the way to go then. The guiding channels for the saw plate will be fixed but the saw blade will be removable. If the rails need to be removable more chances of errors are introduced.

Originally Posted by Soundman

If you want to use the triton carrage you can make the rails by machining the channel from some rectangular section.

The Triton saw carriage from the MK3 can be used as it is square, but you need to drill very accurate holes to fix the special type of runners to the other sides, but the saw carriage of the WC 2000 can not be used. Also the channel is a special type. Hence the need to make your own.


When I start to build it I'll do a detailed picture post as I go along.


Peter.

For any one interested I have a copy of Rocklers Panel Saw which I purchased and runs with DeltaCad. If you haven't got DeltaCad you can download a thirty day trial and print out all the drawings.

If you want a copy send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will zip it up.

DeltaCad can be accessed here.

http://www.deltacad.com/

Barry,
what's "Panel Saw", is it an optimizing program?

Mick

Mick

It's a set of drawings to build a verticle panel saw. You need DeltaCad to open them.

Okay Barry, Thanks, but no thanks

Mick

I don't know if this link has been mentioned earlier in the thread, but I came across it while earning UBeaut 2c for today!

http://www.sawtrax.com/Page2.html

Seems there's a bit of thought fodder on the site if interested.

Cheers,

P

This all sounds like an awful lot of work and "suck-it-and-see" trial to me. One of the main reasons I purchased the Festool Basis table saw system is I can (quickly) remove the saw and use their excellent guide-rail system to cut down panels with the same accuracy as any table saw then go back to the table (quickly replacing the saw without having to fiddle around resetting the accuracy) and start working on the smaller pieces.

I did see a simple set of racks which hang from rafters to hold the panel (nearly) vertically whilst using the guide system, but I can't recall where. I plan to give these a try when I eventually get my next workshop (just in the process of getting the new house built, so some things have to wait!).

I will say I am most impressed with some of the devices you guys have come up with. Beautiful work!

Cheers,