Thread: Wattage and amperage confusion

It has a continuous input of 1850w which amounts to approx 8 amps at 230v. The 15a refers to the current drawn with 110v in USA.

BTW 1850w input is at best about 2hp and with losses probably only 1.5hp output.

Originally Posted by lemerv

Does this router work off a regular 10 amp outlet here in Australia?

I would be vary wary (read: wouldn't even think about it) of running any tool designed for a country that uses a different power system. The US has both 120v and 240v domestic supply, but I don't know if their 240v is compatible with our 240v.

A standard Aussie 10A power point can theoretically run a 2400W tool; I know the Festool 2200W router has a standard 10A plug.

Bottom line, don't run a US market tool on our power supply unless you're 100% confident you know what you're doing; if something goes wrong, insurance will probably not cover you.

Originally Posted by Bohdan

It has a continuous input of 1850w which amounts to approx 8 amps at 230v. The 15a refers to the current drawn with 110v in USA.

BTW 1850w input is at best about 2hp and with losses probably only 1.5hp output.

True, that’s input. I misread, thanks for pointing that out. In which case yes I understand there would be losses.

Ive been reading about a Dewalt (2-1/4 HP (maximum motor HP) EVS Fixed Base Router with Soft Start - DW618 | DEWALT) on their US site and wonder how can the two be compared?

The Makita states continuous power input of 1850W (approx 2.5hp), whereas Dewalt states “maximum motor hp” of 2.25hp. So the makita gives the continuous input power, meaning as you say we have to assume losses, etc, which is impossible to know. Dewalt on the other hand gives the max motor power, which in reality I assume it could only deliver for a very short period.

Might be a dumb question but how would I make a apples for apples comparison between to the two? Or is that simply not possible?

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

I would be vary wary (read: wouldn't even think about it) of running any tool designed for a country that uses a different power system. The US has both 120v and 240v domestic supply, but I don't know if their 240v is compatible with our 240v.

A standard Aussie 10A power point can theoretically run a 2400W tool; I know the Festool 2200W router has a standard 10A plug.

Bottom line, don't run a US market tool on our power supply unless you're 100% confident you know what you're doing; if something goes wrong, insurance will probably not cover you.

I would only ever buy the Australian stocked item. I only referred to the US site as the Aussie makita site didn’t list any specs on the motor amperage.

The other thing to consider is the hertz. US (and Canada) have 60hz, whereas most of the rest of the world use 50hz, so your motor will run at 5/6th of the speed indicated on the American market tool.

My brother-in-law used to buy US tools, and has a 230>120v transformer to run them off. I don't think he's had any problems - but modern tools with electronics may object to the lower frequency.

Probably not worth the hassle and risk - but it's your call.

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by lemerv

Might be a dumb question but how would I make a apples for apples comparison between to the two? Or is that simply not possible?

If you're trying to figure out which one give you more usable power, it probably doesn't matter much unless you plan to run really massive bits; I used to push a 3/4" roundover bit through US White Oak in a single pass with a 1700W Hitachi and was never lacking power.

The USA also run 60Hz in Aus we run 50Hz so the motor in America spins faster. Or another way a 240 volt 60Hz USA motor will run slower in Australia due to 50Hz so will have a better duty cycle, will last longer.

however it will be easier for you to ignore the overseas websites and compare the models that dewalt/makita list on the Australian sites. Any electrical equipment sold in Australia has to meet aus standards and needs an approval number supplied by a certified test lab. This is why dewalt/makita Australia will bring in only one model as it can be cost prohibitive to test many models and supply warranty.

cheers

The short answer to compatibility with American machines and Australian machines is that they are not compatible at least not without a suitable transformer. American generators spin at 3600rpm giving 60Hz compared to Australian generators spinning at 3000rpm giving 50Hz.

The ability to run any machine on a 10amp plug is fine in theory, but in practice it will depend on how far you are from the incoming power board. As you get further away from your power source the less likely you are to to run a large machine successfully. For example a long extension cord will significantly reduce your ability to run the machine. It may start easily enough, but with a large bit in place and a deep cut it may well trip your circuit breaker as it goes into the overload zone.

I have a 2HP (1500W) air compressor that is used a long way from the our power board and is also on an extension cord. It will not start at all if it has any significant air in the tank and trips the in line circuit breakers. It has to be empty (ie: no load) and not too cold for a successful start.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

If you're trying to figure out which one give you more usable power, it probably doesn't matter much unless you plan to run really massive bits; I used to push a 3/4" roundover bit through US White Oak in a single pass with a 1700W Hitachi and was never lacking power.

Thanks yes I was trying to understand power comparison. Ideally I’m trying to figure out what a “mid-range” router (power-wise) in Aus is. The advice I’ve found is most suggest to start with something mid-range as it will do what a trim router can - albeit more awkwardly - but you won’t be limited on heavier jobs when needed. Then when budget allows, invest in a dedicated trim router and table router if needed.

In Aus, it seems we have trim routers (700-900 watt range) and then it jumps to the 1600-1900 watt range. After that comes the 2400 watt router, like the Triton and round body motors for tables.

Is the 1600-1900 watts range considered “mid-range” in terms of power?

As well as the 2400W which is mounted in a table, I have a Triton 1010W router. I bought it a few years ago and haven't seen it available in local stores for a few but I have been them on ebay available from the UK.

Triton Compact Precision Plunge Router 1010W - JOF001 | eBay

The power requirements will be identical to AUS - just change the plug.

BTW have never had to take the 2400W router out of the table to do a job the 1010W couldn't do.

Originally Posted by Wrongwayfirst

The USA also run 60Hz in Aus we run 50Hz so the motor in America spins faster. Or another way a 240 volt 60Hz USA motor will run slower in Australia due to 50Hz so will have a better duty cycle, will last longer.

A tool fitted with a universal electric motor (i.e. one with brushes) will run at the same speed for every frequency, even DC. The only motors that are frequency sensitive are induction motors and these are rarely used on portable tools, though they can be found on most larger sawbenches.

Originally Posted by lemerv

Thanks yes I was trying to understand power comparison. Ideally I’m trying to figure out what a “mid-range” router (power-wise) in Aus is. The advice I’ve found is most suggest to start with something mid-range as it will do what a trim router can - albeit more awkwardly - but you won’t be limited on heavier jobs when needed. Then when budget allows, invest in a dedicated trim router and table router if needed.

In Aus, it seems we have trim routers (700-900 watt range) and then it jumps to the 1600-1900 watt range. After that comes the 2400 watt router, like the Triton and round body motors for tables.

Is the 1600-1900 watts range considered “mid-range” in terms of power?

perhaps the "best" source for understanding what a mid-range router is, is to look at the range of Festool routers -- please don't think I'm encouraging you to buy one, just look at the specs for the four routers Festool supplies in the AUS market to give you an idea.

First off is Festool's "trimmer" -- less than 500 W -- as supplied it is a true trimmer. Makita also make a trimmer with similar power output 530W.

Makita also make a 750W router -- it takes 1/4" bits. It is really a small router, rather than a "trimmer".

then there's Festool's 1010 router -- around 1000 W -- takes 1/4" and 8 mm bits. The router has enough power for most "normal" applications. I'd describe this as a "mid-range" router. Makita makes a router in this power class described as a 3/8" router -- 3/8" means it will also take 1/4" and 8 mm shank bits. And "Good luck" when trying to source 3/8" shank bits!

followed by Festool's 1400 router -- around 1400 W -- tales 1/4", 8mm and 1/2" bits. Variable speed, works well with bits up to around 2-1/2" -- I'd describe this as a "large" router. Makita make a slightly more powerful router RP1800 (described as 1850 W) that also takes 1/2" bits.

lastly the Festool 2200 -- 2200 W, variable speed. Equivalent to the Makita 2301, I'm not sure about other brands. A router this size will drive the largest router bits (3-1/2" dia) available -- I'd describe it as a "very large, very powerful router". Until you really know what you are doing, don't buy one.


my 2 cents?
if this will be your first router buy one in the 750 - 1100W class.
It will have more than enough power for "normal" use. But also buy an 8mm collet for it so you can work with the 8 mm Leigh dovetail bits.

Large routers in the 1400 to 1800 W class are probably too powerful for most of the uses you are likely to want to do.

Originally Posted by ian

my 2 cents?
if this will be your first router buy one in the 750 - 1100W class.
It will have more than enough power for "normal" use. But also buy an 8mm collet for it so you can work with the 8 mm Leigh dovetail bits.

Large routers in the 1400 to 1800 W class are probably too powerful for most of the uses you are likely to want to do.

This was very helpful, thanks. Sounds like 1100W is sufficient for most applications. The only thing I’m wondering is router bit cost. Ideally, I’d like to buy quality (ie probably expensive) bits as I need them. If I get a router now that takes 1/2” bits then I can also use these on a table router (which I’ll probably get one day). If not, then I guess I’d have to potentially double up on bits down the line? Or am I overthinking it?

IMO, if it can't take 1/2" shank bits, don't buy it; you can always get reducer collets or sleeves, you can't make them bigger. 1/4" and 1/2" are the 2 most common shank sizes by a LONG way and anything other than them is going to be either hard to find, expensive, or both. My 1700W served double duty as both hand held and table mounted.

We exclusively used Carbitool (now owned by Sutton) bits at my old work, except for a few giant bits for the CNC, and they're fantastic. Also made in Melbourne, so supporting a local business.