Thread: www show buy

Back to the original question regarding the saw, there was a thread last year asking the exact same question.

I am sure you did a search and read this before you posted your question, but in case you didn't:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=38422

[edit: sorry, that's the wrong thread, but I can't find the one I remember... still looking. Search on 2325]

The conclusion is that the 10hb is superior to the 2325, but at almost twice the price you have to decide if it worth it.

cheers

I still haven't found that original thread, so if I can try remember the general jist...

The thread was about the effort required to set up and tune an MJ-2325 before using it.
The thread had a long description about tuning the tables (which had some pitting in the castings), squaring the blade, aligning the belts, fine tuning the fence, etc etc. This was contrasted against the 10-HB, which was virtually ready out of the box.

The point was the 2325 was cheaper, but needed a whole lot of "fixing" once you got it home. For a few hundred dollars more you got a saw that didn't need fixing at all.
It convinced me that when I retire the Triton in about 12 months (once we move to the new house), I should get the 10HB.

(If anyone else can find that original thread it would be appreciated.)
John.

Don't know about the thread either, but when I got my 2325 from H&F there was precious little tuning I needed to do. The table was flat as long as I bolted the wings on flat. The blade was dead parallel with the mitre gauge slots (whatever they're called). I needed to tweak the blade adjustment slightly to get it at 90 degrees to the table when the indicator said so, and I did adjust the fence a touch to get it square. All up, less than an hour.

I guess it depends where you get it and I may have been fortunate. I remember being surprised that it needed so little tuning after reading some of the posts on that type of saw.

No idea if this is approved practice, but it seems ok to me.

A mate had a similar problem 15amp table saw no 15 amp point in shed cheapest option was to have a 15 amp power point put right next to the power board. Most boards have spare capacity after all.

Then buy a 15 amp extension cord and run that to the shed.

As I understand it (informed by tame sparkie mate, who did mine) a 15amp power point must be a single point on it's own cable with the approved and appropriately rated cable and power point etc.

Oh yes and I can tell you as I have worked as an insurance claims assessor (shame on me I know) that they would frown very deeply on any claim associated with a fire or another damage resulting from the use of unapproved equipment. Namely a 15 amp device plugged into a 10 service.

Dave

Well done to Woodcutta and Blackout for correcting the earlier simlified power rating formula. I was reading through this thread and wondering if anyone would pickup on these two easily overlooked, but very important, facts.

Peter
Electrical Engineer

I got the TS and it's running on 10 amp fine, but I'll install the 15 amp outlet once i get the dust collector.

cheers!!!!!

Originally Posted by John G

I still haven't found that original thread, so if I can try remember the general jist...

The thread was about the effort required to set up and tune an MJ-2325 before using it.
The thread had a long description about tuning the tables (which had some pitting in the castings), squaring the blade, aligning the belts, fine tuning the fence, etc etc. This was contrasted against the 10-HB, which was virtually ready out of the box.

The point was the 2325 was cheaper, but needed a whole lot of "fixing" once you got it home. For a few hundred dollars more you got a saw that didn't need fixing at all.
It convinced me that when I retire the Triton in about 12 months (once we move to the new house), I should get the 10HB.

(If anyone else can find that original thread it would be appreciated.)
John.

This 'un http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=19390

There is also the question of using a dado head... which apparently you can't. If you bought the saw and the tables etc are OK, maybe the bad batch explanation was correct.

Originally Posted by haosiliu235

... I'll install the 15 amp outlet once i get the dust collector ...

Are you mad?

You've already got neighbour problems with your table saw. Add a dust collector and they're going to burn your house down.