zero tolerance inserts (and mobile bases)

**Arron** · 16th November 2003, 10:21 PM

Hi, anyone make their own tablesaw zero gap inserts (zero tolerance insert). What did you make it out of and how does it perform. I want to do it right as I dont want anything dangerous happening.

Also, just a tip. Like most weekend warriors I use the garage as a workshop. I keep the machinery pressed hard against the wall, and when I need to use them I drive the car out and wheel the chosen tool into the centre of the room. I have castors on the bottom of the drill press, jointer, linisher, router table etc. The castors have never really work well. They wobble, dont feel positive, every now and then one gets stuck in a groove in the concrete floor and sometimes they just break up at their weak point which is the metal riser. Mobile bases would be good but with these things now costing $125 each (plus you supply the wood) I have been looking around for a substitute. In Bunnings I found some 'furniture movers' designed for whitegoods. They are low, flat things with sets of four wheels under each corner. They are designed for weights of up to 1100kg (from memory) so no problem with heavy weight.

I find these things slide the machine very nicely and feel positive. They arent troubled by a rutted floor because the four wheels per corner means that there are always plenty of wheels on the flat. Of course they have no locking mechanism so you have to wedge the tool if you are exerting sideways pressure in use. Best part is they are $35, although they are also in Kmart where they might be cheaper.

I still dont think I'll be putting one under the table saw though - they could easily stand the weight but I'd want to be more sure the thing cant move around once I start using it.

Arron

**Dean** · 16th November 2003, 10:33 PM

All metal mobile base $75
GPW

Mobile Base (needs hardwood) $59
GPW

**rodm** · 17th November 2003, 01:02 AM

Arron
I made my insert from Jarrah. First I run it through the thicknesser then ripped it to width on the table saw. Use your existing insert as a template and finish the rounded ends with the bandsaw and disc sander. Lower the blade and put your insert in place. Clamp a board across the top of your table saw including the insert. On with the saw and raise the blade to the highest position. I finished the insert with varnish on both sides to help stabilise the wood. Worked for me and no fear of injury as you are well clear while cutting the blade slot.

cheers,
Rod

**derekcohen** · 17th November 2003, 05:01 AM

Arron

I have made inserts from both plywood and MDF. They have both worked well. The prime criteria to be met is stability and flatness. For this reason I have tended to avoid solid wood (although I note that Rod has been successful in this regard).

An alternate method to Rod's: Cut out the shape about 1/8" oversize (jig saw, bandsaw). Use a hot glue gun to temporarily stick the metal insert to the Ply/MDF. Then use a router with flush cutting bit to trim it to exact size.

Drill for and add Set screws for height adjustment.

Theoretically you need to make a different insert for each blade you will use on the saw table but in practice I have not found any problems if the kerfs are slightly different.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**Arron** · 17th November 2003, 09:02 AM

Guys, how does your dust extraction work with these inserts in place. Do you suck up the dust from above (say with a modified safety guard), or does it follow the sawblade down and get extracted from below ?

Arron

**ozwinner** · 17th November 2003, 04:02 PM

Hi Arron
I made a simular insert from 8mm perspex, same method, lower blade etc, I just routed the edges to the required thickness.
Dust extraction is improved, most of it follows the blade down.
Cheers, Allan

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