Thread: Finally a topic I know something about

back in england - years ago - me and the missus did home brewing seriously...
made wines too - elderberry was the best... picked the elderberries from the banks of the river wear in the shadow of Penshaw Monument...
high tannin content... brilliant wine...
peach and banana wine - excellent: banana wine clears superbly...

beers: used to malt our own local-grown barley and wheat...
made our own Guiness a few times... roast the barley and wheat first, then crack it, then 'must' it... got close...

most unusual was "Cock-Ale" - basic barley and wheat brew, bottom-brew yeast... then add RAW chicken neck (suspended in brew on string)... Old Friar recipe) - seems the proteins from the chicken acts on the yeast to aid brewing... Only tried this once... It brewed out ok... bottled ok... tasted ok... and we're still alive...

Nowadays, we still brew - but only from kits... nothing adventurous...
favourite is cider...
that's what I'm (hic) on tonight (hic)....
Cheers
jedo

Can Tooheys Old kit
750g DME
750g LME
Safale yeast
tatsinger (sp) hops

Comes out a beautiful deep burgundy with a nice mouthfeel, soft with a nice spicy finish, matures within 2 weeks after secondary and is drinkable, better after two months, do not refrigerate as it kills the subtle flavours.

Another is the Cervesa kit with the juice of 3 lemons added, takes a while to mature but is a nice thirst killer on a hot day, use the recommended brewing sugar on the pack, #2 for memory.

Good on ya Iain.

Originally Posted by BrissyBrew

First of all if you want a true lager finish your better off using a liquid yeast. However true german larger yeast is comming soon as a dry alternative but currently not avaialbe in Australia. However fermentation at lower temperatures is necessary, even for dried but that depends on the strain. I am not sure what black rock use in there kits, it is most likely repackaged danstar Saflarger but I am unsure on this issue. The DME is ok just boil it up and it should be fine. Yeast profile is important for lager's crisp clean flavour profile. Temperature control for fermentation is also as important as the stain of yeast you use.

SAFLAGER W-34/70 is a pretty good dry german lager yeast.

4 kg Vienna
1 kg Pilsner
250g caramalt
250g wheat
500g melanoiden

40g Spalter @ start of boil
25 g of tettnang @45min

Wyeast 2206

What do you think?

H.

Originally Posted by BrissyBrew

Temperature control for fermentation is also as important as the stain of yeast you use.

I know it is difficult to answer without knowing the yeast but if I use the yeast that came with the Blackrock Larger what temp should I be brewing at?

Originally Posted by Sir Stinkalot

I know it is difficult to answer without knowing the yeast but if I use the yeast that came with the Blackrock Larger what temp should I be brewing at?

I would say 18 to 20, generally the kits get packed with an Ale type yeast which prefers warmer temps. I do have a friend who likes his fermentation to go quick and he ferments at 25, but this can give you some interesting flavours.

For a larger I would try and keep the temps as low as possible even if using the Kit Yeast, probably wouldn't go above 18.

H.

Originally Posted by himzol

25 g of tettnang @45min



H.

Thanks, always bugger up the spelling of those hops, originally used as a preservative for those who are interested in HB, never intended as a flavouring or bittering agent.
If you want bitter though, try Pride of Ringwood, that is super bitter ++++++

Originally Posted by Iain

Thanks, always bugger up the spelling of those hops, originally used as a preservative for those who are interested in HB, never intended as a flavouring or bittering agent.
If you want bitter though, try Pride of Ringwood, that is super bitter ++++++

Yeah, I'm mainly using it for aroma in this instance. was going to add it at flame out but thought what the hey see if it does add anything to the spalter.

Love the POR, use it quite a bit in what I refer to as aussie amber, POR and Nottingham ale yeast...mmmmmmm

H.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Any?

OK then, what smart-asre came up with the idea of calling the science of brewing zymurgy? And why?

Zymurgy or zymology is the study of the chemistry involved in the fermentation process. It was originally used to describe the science involved in these processes, but it has become a term to describe the brewing of alcoholic beverages. A zymurgist is the person who studies zymurgy.
Zymurgy is the name of a home brewers magazine, and can be found in the names of organizations involved in brewing alcohol.
Louis Pasteur was the first zymologist, when in 1857 he connected yeast to fermentation. Pasteur originally defined fermentation as "respiration without air". The German Edward Buchner, winner of the 1907 Nobel Prize in chemistry, later determined that fermentation was actually caused by a yeast secretion that he termed zymase.

Here's my beer fridge.

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

Good on ya Frank.

Can you make or tell me how to make anything as good as Tooheys Old?

simple answer get a Tooheys old kit (1kg) use a can of liquid dark malt (1.5 kg) mix together in fermenter add the supplied yeast and close lid
7-10 days later bottle with your usual sugar or carb drops cap and leave for couple months
refrigerate and drink cold
I never brew using sugar always malt seems to produce a quality beer every time and holds a nice head as well.
I gave up making brews from scratch in the late 70's to time consuming plus the kits where getting better.
Another one to try is Canadian Blonde and 1 kilo honey (blended is ok) for a subtle brew with a hint of honey
Pete (the mad brewer)

Thanks Pete, more food for thought.

Looks a lot like mine Pete, try the hops at the end (pellets) and the Safale, makes for some subtle differences.