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Thread: 090 oiler

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default 090 oiler

    Been lurking for a while and was eventually inspired to hunt down an 090 av to mill up some peppemint gum and pin oak that came down in my yard. Just some observations on milling my first small log as I probably don't intend to cut anything over about 1 metre diameter, but you never know.
    1. Even though I love the saw which was a one owner before me, it is a beast and quite taxing to lug around and I reckon for what I need I could have got away with a 90/100 cc saw. Saying that, it just cruises through 700 mm of log like it's on a warm up jog and once it's on the log the added weight isn't a factor, in fact I think it's helpful in keeping the whole process steady and smooth partcularly with the winch I added to the mill, the issue I'm having is oil flow, using maybe 2 tanks plus to a tank of fuel. The manual is telling me to adjust the control bolt clockwise to slow down the flow, what it doesn't tell me is which side of the saw to do the adjustment from, meaning it could be one way or the other depending on which side of the saw you're standing on, anyone have any clues? The way I read it the bolt needs to screw "in" to increase flow and obviously screw "out" to decrease flow. I have tried turning it both ways and nothing seems to change. If I can get my oil consumption down a bit it'll make the whole process a little less costly because at $40 per 5 litres of stihl synthetic I can't see the value.
    2. I purchased a holzfforma mill off ebay. I still think it is a good buy but be prepared for issues. Probably about the 4th cut I made, the cast bracket broke half way through the cut, trouble was I hadn't realised and ended up with 2 mangled slabs ie that vary in thickness from one end to the other on one side. I manufactured a replacement out of 50 x 25 steel tube which so far seems to be holding up. I'm not surprised I had this problem as there is approx. 20 kg of vibrating powerhead on that bracket and imo you would need a lot heavier casting to compensate for that. The saw came with a 900mm hard nose bar which seems to work ok and I also made an oiler for the toe end of the bar which basically just drips onto the junction between bar and chain, my biggest problem being that I keep forgetting to turn it off but guess I will get used to it over time. I'm thinking about running straight canola oil out of the supplementary tank only, some thought on this would be appreciated
    3. All in all I'm having some fun but unsure how long the novelty will last. I'm hoping to mill up some 8m beams for a shed out of one of the gums that came down and am curious to see what a pin oak looks like all cleaned up, if someone has any idea about the oiler problem it would be more than helpful cheers Chris

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaser View Post
    Been lurking for a while and was eventually inspired to hunt down an 090 av to mill up some peppemint gum and pin oak that came down in my yard. Just some observations on milling my first small log as I probably don't intend to cut anything over about 1 metre diameter, but you never know.
    1. Even though I love the saw which was a one owner before me, it is a beast and quite taxing to lug around and I reckon for what I need I could have got away with a 90/100 cc saw. Saying that, it just cruises through 700 mm of log like it's on a warm up jog and once it's on the log the added weight isn't a factor, in fact I think it's helpful in keeping the whole process steady and smooth partcularly with the winch I added to the mill.
    If you put your log on a slope you won't need a winch .


    the issue I'm having is oil flow, using maybe 2 tanks plus to a tank of fuel. The manual is telling me to adjust the control bolt clockwise to slow down the flow, what it doesn't tell me is which side of the saw to do the adjustment from, meaning it could be one way or the other depending on which side of the saw you're standing on, anyone have any clues? The way I read it the bolt needs to screw "in" to increase flow and obviously screw "out" to decrease flow. I have tried turning it both ways and nothing seems to change. If I can get my oil consumption down a bit it'll make the whole process a little less costly because at $40 per 5 litres of stihl synthetic I can't see the value.
    To give you an idea of oil consumption he 090 has a relatively small oil tank (0.53L) compared to the 880s 0.7L and I run my 880 with a oil/mix set at one for one.

    That oil consumption does seem a little high. It sounds like your oiler might be stuck on fully open - you might need to clean it out. Most of that oil is also going to flung off the bar nose before it even gets to the cutting side. Your auxliiary oil tank will provide much more efficient and effective oiling with about half the amount of oil from the 090 should normally be using.

    RE; Oil cost. You don't need to use branded B&C oil but you should also not use rubbish, like used engine oil. Besides being toxic used engine oil make a horrible mess. Find an oil recycler in you area and get them to make a up a B&C brew for you. Its just mineral oil with a tackifier added. My Trunk Blu supplier (I think they are Aussie wide) supplies me with 20L for $50 and he adds and extra shot of tackifier to it at no charge.

    2. I purchased a holzfforma mill off ebay. I still think it is a good buy but be prepared for issues. Probably about the 4th cut I made, the cast bracket broke half way through the cut, trouble was I hadn't realised and ended up with 2 mangled slabs ie that vary in thickness from one end to the other on one side. I manufactured a replacement out of 50 x 25 steel tube which so far seems to be holding up. I'm not surprised I had this problem as there is approx. 20 kg of vibrating powerhead on that bracket and imo you would need a lot heavier casting to compensate for that. The saw came with a 900mm hard nose bar which seems to work ok and I also made an oiler for the toe end of the bar which basically just drips onto the junction between bar and chain, my biggest problem being that I keep forgetting to turn it off but guess I will get used to it over time. I'm thinking about running straight canola oil out of the supplementary tank only, some thought on this would be appreciated.
    I hooked the aux oil tap up to a bicycle gear change cable and routed the cable over to the operators side. It stares at me right in teh face and much easier to turn off. Especially if you have to stop mid cut to do something.


    3. All in all I'm having some fun but unsure how long the novelty will last. I'm hoping to mill up some 8m beams for a shed out of one of the gums that came down and am curious to see what a pin oak looks like all cleaned up, if someone has any idea about the oiler problem it would be more than helpful cheers Chris
    It took me 4 CSMa, 10 chainsaws and 8 years to get over the hump especially after the Tree lopper fella I work with bought a nice little 36"/27HP BS mill that I can play with anytime I like in exchange for me sharpening the BS blades which I quite enjoy. I still crank up the BSMs for nature playground and park furniture work which the BSM can't do or bigger logs.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    If you put your log on a slope you won't need a winch .To give you an idea of oil consumption he 090 has a relatively small oil tank (0.53L) compared to the 880s 0.7L and I run my 880 with a oil/mix set at one for one..
    Yeah I have seen that amazing pic of your rig self feeding it's way down what looks like a redgum log, amazing stuff. My sharpening skills aint that good yet. I feel the winch gives me some control over feed rate which allows me time to keep the rig squared up on the log.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    That oil consumption does seem a little high. It sounds like your oiler might be stuck on fully open - you might need to clean it out. Most of that oil is also going to flung off the bar nose before it even gets to the cutting side. Your auxliiary oil tank will provide much more efficient and effective oiling with about half the amount of oil from the 090 should normally be using.

    Yeah you could be right, I better get used to tearing things down and putting them back together

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Find an oil recycler in you area and get them to make a up a B&C brew for you. Its just mineral oil with a tackifier added. My Trunk Blu supplier (I think they are Aussie wide) supplies me with 20L for $50 and he adds and extra shot of tackifier to it at no charge.I hooked the aux oil tap up to a bicycle gear change cable and routed the cable over to the operators side. It stares at me right in teh face and much easier to turn off. Especially if you have to stop mid cut to do something.
    great tips thanks I'll see what I can find.


    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Tree lopper fella I work with bought a nice little 36"/27HP BS mill that I can play with anytime
    I wish

    thanks BobL regards Chris

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,794

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    Sorry that should have been TruBluoil
    See
    Chain & Bar Oil Archives - Tru Blu Oil

    I buy it in 20L drums and on sell it to my mates in 5L lots.

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