Thread: new 25" sthil bar

have contacted origan and GB directly to see what they recon.

can i get a bar specialy made?

if so who by?

Originally Posted by weisyboy

as i say i have a full 25' roll of skip chain for a .058 grove so i need a bar that will fit it otherwide its 500 buck down the drain.

25ft for $500 sounds like a lot are you sure you don't mean 100ft ?

it wasnt 100ft.

it may have been a bit less than 500 i got a few other bits aswell.

it is origan 3/8 skip chain

Have you tried looking at the Oregon Chain and bar selector website at
http://www.oregonchain.com/commonpgm...Y&usertype=PRO

?

This web page interactivelt steps you through the make, bar length, chain size etc of your saw. You may at least be able to pick up the Blade part number to suit you.

Originally Posted by weisyboy

as i say i have a full 25' roll of skip chain for a .058 grove so i need a bar that will fit it otherwide its 500 buck down the drain.

Well clown , actually no you didnt mention anywhere in the thread that you bought a 25' roll of chain , I cant beleive you were dumb enough to pay $500 for a $120 dollar roll of chain . I was only making a sugestion and provided a link to some good reading , but if this is the way you treat people , no wonder they didnt give you your money back , if this the sort of person you realy are , you can shove it.

Let's leave the personal stuff out of it ok? Best to walk away if something annoys you rather than let the pixels rile you up.

A quick read of the rules may help. (Not aimed at anyone specifically)

Originally Posted by matildasmate

Well clown , actually no you didnt mention anywhere in the thread that you bought a 25' roll of chain , I cant beleive you were dumb enough to pay $500 for a $120 dollar roll of chain . I was only making a sugestion and provided a link to some good reading , but if this is the way you treat people , no wonder they didnt give you your money back , if this the sort of person you realy are , you can shove it.

sorry if you took my post the rong way but i was not having a go at you i am infact angry with myself for not checking out the chain better befor i purchsed it.

i may have to re sell it and get the right chain if i cant get the bar made or one to fit. $500 included a few other bits and peices including set of files, set of dimond stones, depth gauge, and some oil.

if you can get the rolls for $120 can you please let me know where as i have been quoted between $300 and $500 by the places round here.

the link you gave me was great i have added it to my favorites for further reading. thanks.

sorry for the mis understanding.

Originally Posted by BobL

Have you tried looking at the Oregon Chain and bar selector website at
http://www.oregonchain.com/commonpgm...Y&usertype=PRO

?

This web page interactivelt steps you through the make, bar length, chain size etc of your saw. You may at least be able to pick up the Blade part number to suit you.

.that is a handy little tool. it is favorited to. but i dosent \sean to have a .058 option only .063 and .050?

i have been told that the chain is .058 but it dosent seam to say anyware what it is?

maby i will have to check the chain again.

Try Laurie , there's a pdf price list I posted to this thread mate . Hey sorry for being such a wanker mate . The price of the chain was actually about $137.50 + $10.00 postage roughly going by the pdf price list . Not sure how to say this , Just slap me around the head if it sound's like crap , but it seem's a little strange that in Australia , at least on this site , a lot of bloke's seem to use skip chain , but from what I have read on the other site , the Arboristsite (http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=62) that I am also a member of , which has member's from all over the world USA , CAN , Aus , Brit and so on , they mainly use full comp chain and only use Skip chain , either when using long bar's (5' - 6' or longer and then , only when not enough horse power available)or on smaller saw's which cant handle all the cutter's , due to lack of horse power , full comp chain , if you have the power , it cut's faster . Cheer's mate hope this is of some use to you . MM

i cut hardwood mainly and find that skip chain cuts at least twice as fast as regular chain and i do not have to push it.

no other countries have wood anyware neer as hard as ours normal chain dose cut well in soft woods and leaves you with a better finish.

the idea of skip chain as i understand it is that it has more time to clear the chips and so dosenot get cloged up or boged down.

Originally Posted by weisyboy

i cut hardwood mainly and find that skip chain cuts at least twice as fast as regular chain and i do not have to push it.

no other countries have wood anyware neer as hard as ours normal chain dose cut well in soft woods and leaves you with a better finish.

the idea of skip chain as i understand it is that it has more time to clear the chips and so dosenot get cloged up or boged down.

Actually , Africa has the hardest known timber in the world that I know of , being Ebony , there are also a quite a few other timber's around the world of comparable hardness to our's , although we tend to have more of them .

Originally Posted by matildasmate

Actually , Africa has the hardest known timber in the world that I know of , being Ebony , there are also a quite a few other timber's around the world of comparable hardness to our's , although we tend to have more of them .

Hardness is only one of a number of factors that determines how difficult a timber is to cut with a CS. Ebony is very hard but when it finally gives way it chips relatively easily into a powder and comes quite cleanly out of the kerf. More fibrous and resinous timbers like tuart may not be as hard as ebony but are a right royal PITA since its gums up the chain something horrible and this can slow you right down maybe far more than a harder wood. I haven't tried tuart out with my water cooling chain washing setup but I'd be keen to see if makes a difference.

Originally Posted by weisyboy

i cut hardwood mainly and find that skip chain cuts at least twice as fast as regular chain and i do not have to push it.

no other countries have wood anyware neer as hard as ours normal chain dose cut well in soft woods and leaves you with a better finish.

the idea of skip chain as i understand it is that it has more time to clear the chips and so dosenot get cloged up or boged down.

Sound's interesting mate . I have read a fare bit about skip chain even used it myself . Cheer's MM

Originally Posted by BobL

Hardness is only one of a number of factors that determines how difficult a timber is to cut with a CS. Ebony is very hard but when it finally gives way it chips relatively easily into a powder and comes quite cleanly out of the kerf. More fibrous and resinous timbers like tuart may not be as hard as ebony but are a right royal PITA since its gums up the chain something horrible and this can slow you right down maybe far more than a harder wood. I haven't tried tuart out with my water cooling chain washing setup but I'd be keen to see if makes a difference.

Yes that's true Bob , there are a lot of other factor's , even some soft wood's , are no doubt difficult to mill , but the point I was trying to make , is the fact that there are many timber's in many country's that are just as hard and difficult to mill . But we seem to have a lot of them here . If anyone in there travel's come's across , any info on cornuta Yate hardness , can you let me know thank's . I have a book on tree's and it say's , Cornuta Yate is one of the hardest timber's in the world , buggered if I can find this info , I can get a lot of other info on it , but not hardness , it is a exstremly hard Western Australian hardwood . I have some log's here . Cheer's MM