Thread: My Alaskan chainsaw mill.......

G'day Martrix

It's a solid nose bar, there is really no advantage on having a sprocket on slabbing bars as there is normally a lot of wear on the main part of the bar and they are replaced fairly regularly.

And a solid nose bar is also use in an area where there is a lot of abrasive conditions that would quickly ruin bearings of sprocket-nose bars.

Hi Martrix (and djs),
Good job on the mills .... such a simple thing isn't it, without threaded adjustment and rollers.
I've just scored a nice cypress log (not the local Callitris) and I think now is the time to knock together a mill like this one of Stu's for my Stihl. A couple of questions though, does the mill only attach to the bar by clamping action, no through bolts to mount it? And although you've proved it, is there no need to go into fitting rollers that ride along the top?
I'll keep the aux oiler in mind too.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

A couple of questions though, does the mill only attach to the bar by clamping action, no through bolts to mount it?

Yes, just clamping action.
When I first started thinking about making one, I thought it would definitely need bolts through the bar, but after using the clamping method it is strong as and does not even hint at moving.
Plus, I think the steel that the bars are made from is not mild steel and would take some effort to drill through....No need.

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

And although you've proved it, is there no need to go into fitting rollers that ride along the top?
I'll keep the aux oiler in mind too.

Cheers,

I don't think rollers would help significantly and it slides along quite easily as it is.
Definitely do the aux oiler. I sliced up another redgum log the other day, and instead of pulling the saw out to get the oil going again, I would just pause and drizzle oil on with a bottle close at hand and then continue on.

G'day Andy

I have holes in my bar for the attachment as mine is 1.5mts (the cut that is, actual bar is about 1.8mts) long and it's needs to be fairly rigid and it's tensioned differently to a normal chainsaw setup.

For a small to midsized chainsaw the clamping setup is quite sufficient.

If you need to drill some holes in your bar, use a masonry drill bit with plenty of lube.

Add more info

The vibrations of the chainsaw is enough to allow the milling jig to travel

Martrix,

What size SHS did you use? Looks like maybe 30mm?

For those of you contemplating chainsaw mills, I've just spent a couple of days cruising on the following sites related to Milling.

Lots of interesting posts including rollermatics (http://www.arboristsite.com/attachme...&d=1157922662), auto feeds and many other variations of Alaskans
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=62

Lotsa hard core Okie type (and an Aussie I know) posting here.
http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/milling/
The photos are only accessible if you register - bummer! and the site is a bit of PITA to use but there appears to be a lot of useful info and interesting saw designs buried in there.

I must have spent 5-6 hours so far and am still learning heaps.

Thanks guys
That simplifies things, so I'm going to get stuck into it next week. And Bob for the links I'll check them out too.
Flying up to Blackwater for a couple of days, so no chance of getting a start now, but maybe I'll be able to find a local timber sample!

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

Thanks guys
That simplifies things, so I'm going to get stuck into it next week. And Bob for the links I'll check them out too.
Flying up to Blackwater for a couple of days, so no chance of getting a start now, but maybe I'll be able to find a local timber sample!

Cheers,

Andy,

I found some metal tubing in the scraps bin at work so if my shoulder is up to it I might have a go myself.

Definitely check those sites out, you will get so many ideas. Just ran across this one a gravity driven chainsaw mill. http://www.arboristsite.com/attachme...7&d=1164068854


Cheers

Originally Posted by Dean

Martrix,

What size SHS did you use? Looks like maybe 30mm?

Hi Dean, it is all 20mm x 20mm x 1.6mm SHS ( I just worked out what that means Square Hollow Section and Rectangle Hollow Section for anyone else ) except for the uprights with the securing bolts which are 25mm to allow the 20mm to slide through.

Ive had a few requests, so I will try and do a quick drawing with dimensions in SketchUp in the next few days.

Originally Posted by martrix

Ive had a few requests, so I will try and do a quick drawing with dimensions in SketchUp in the next few days.

Thanks for the info mate. Yeah a dimensioned drawing would be great )

Originally Posted by martrix

( I just worked out what that means Square Hollow Section and Rectangle Hollow Section for anyone else )

Apparently RHS = Rounded Hollow Steel. The "Rectangle" bit is supposed to be a modification of the actual name simply because of its shape??

But really.. who cares anyway

Well today I finished off my copy of the Stu Ablett (nee Martrix ) chainsaw mill.

Im fitting it to a 20" 50cc chinese ebay chainsaw (which was actually pretty cheap!).

Funny thing is that Martrix says he gets 300mm working range with his 14" bar and I measured only 350" with my 20" bar... hmm maybe I stuffed it

Will post pics tomorrow. Currently the gold paint is drying on the frame, and it looks like a million dollar chainsaw mill (except for some dodgy welding here and there). The 4yo wanted it painted and he chose gold spray paint

Now just gotta find a rip chain and it will get its first workout!

I started mine today but didn't get past cutting up the SHS and a couple of chookpoop welding runs (haven't done any welding in ages) before my shoulder gave out, now I'm typing this one handed! All I'll say about it is I've gone in for a couple of mods but I'll wait and see how it ends up before posting details.

Cheers

Originally Posted by Dean

Well today I finished off my copy of the Stu Ablett (nee Martrix ) chainsaw mill.

Im fitting it to a 20" 50cc chinese ebay chainsaw (which was actually pretty cheap!).

Funny thing is that Martrix says he gets 300mm working range with his 14" bar and I measured only 350" with my 20" bar... hmm maybe I stuffed it

I checked mine again and yes it can do 295mm. I managed to get the upright in between the spikes.

Let me know how those chainsaws go, I have been watching them too. How much, $150?.....ballpark maybe? I look forward to seeing 'Goldmember' in action!

Here are the belated drawings. Let me know if there is some detail missing.