Thread: My Alaskan chainsaw mill.......

Large blocks of wood (set lengthwise BTW) with cant hook sounds like the simplest. But ratcheting the cant hook at that large a diameter would be somewhat scary, even with a shallow slope. Also quite tedious for the movement you desire. If you can get under the log, wrap a chain around it; lower leg of chain runs uphill to a ground anchor or auxiliary tree; upper leg of chain attached to a stout vehicle, which then backs downhill. Unfortunately, the upper leg of chain needs to be twice the amount of travel; might not have enough room. I've pulled a couple trees down (incomplete felling cut) where the tree was originally leaning the wrong way. Use two come-alongs, and leapfrog along the upper chain, re-attaching to the vehicle or another auxiliary tree as you go. ("Another auxiliary tree" could actually be the same tree, now that I think about it.)

Joe

Slope is 1:15 - some neighbors lawn (can't afford to tear it up too much) then footpath.

Someone at work suggested a beefy pallet trolley ?

All in all an interesting problem.

Originally Posted by BobL

It appears that's what happened to the little McCulloch of mine that died on the weekend. Because I was cutting such hard wood I was manually pumping a fair bit of oil onto the bar. Half way through a cut it let out a long jet of smoke from the clutch and then "Clunk" it went dead.

When I started to take the thing apart I noticed a couple of table spoons of black oily sawdust inside the clutch. I'm starting to think because I had the good Peltor ear muffs on I didn't notice the clutch slipping and possibly even free reving for too long. Anyway a full breakdown will tell.

And here's the problem. Looks like it dropped a little end bearing. Ugly Huh!

Looks like it's time to retire it to the graveyard Bob

yeouch!....she had a good life.

Here ya go if your game........parts, parts and more parts.

Got a start on slabbing with my new jig and it works very well , some pictures of it in action here

Here are some pics of my auxiliary oiler. Very simple, but works well enough. $7 worth of irrigation fittings.

Pity Ive got no working saws now.


Here is 4 minutes of your life you will never get back. My Chinese toy broke not long after doing the movie.

Alaskan Chainsaw video

Looked good Martrix, after you flipped the slab it looked like you might be getting too much oil out of the AUX oiler

Thanks for the vid, Tim, interesting viewing

Thanks Matrix, great to watch.

Have you worked what that cut cost per inch?

Are you going to fix the CS or are you going for a bigger one?

Originally Posted by djstimber

If you need to drill some holes in your bar, use a masonry drill bit with plenty of lube.

Hi DJ, is that because the tips are carbide?

I guess you need to also grind a cutting edge on them?

Originally Posted by Big Shed

Thanks Matrix, great to watch.

Have you worked what that cut cost per inch?

Are you going to fix the CS or are you going for a bigger one?

The electric has gone in for a second repair.

Got it back the first time after the drive part was replaced. Used it for about 5 minutes and the frigging chain fell off. The chain drive sprocket removed itself.
It is held on by a washer and a cir-clip and neither could be found anywhere and there wasn't any metal fillings or anything.

I'm assuming the dipsh!t that fixed it left the washer and the clip off, or didnt get the clip seated properly. I only used the saw in one spot, and could not find it any where on the ground. The chain under tension was holding the sprocket on. As soon as the saw was used on its side for a bit, it vibrated its self off.

Originally Posted by martrix

Hi DJ, is that because the tips are carbide?

I guess you need to also grind a cutting edge on them?

Yes that is correct. All you need to do is grind them at the same angle that they are now, you just need to get rid of the slightly radius edge on the cutting face.

If you've got some cutting fluid that will do the job beautifully. If you don't have any I will drop some into you next week if you need some, as I have heaps of it here.

Guys, somewhere on Arborist.com I came across this but cannot find the reference so I sketched it up (pardon the crappy use of SKUP). Its basically a bolt with a hole down the long axis bolted to just near the rim of the bar. The oil tube is connected to the bolt and a short hole is drilled in the bar channel to intersect with the bolt. Oil comes out of this short hole into the channel under the chain. It's supposed to put the oil more where it is needed and there is less wear and tear on teh chain and bar. Less oil flung all over the place as well.

Cheers

Originally Posted by BobL

Guys, somewhere on Arborist.com I came across this but cannot find the reference so I sketched it up (pardon the crappy use of SKUP). Its basically a bolt with a hole down the long axis bolted to just near the rim of the bar. The oil tube is connected to the bolt and a short hole is drilled in the bar channel to intersect with the bolt. Oil comes out of this short hole into the channel under the chain. It's supposed to put the oil more where it is needed and there is less wear and tear on teh chain and bar. Less oil flung all over the place as well.

Cheers

Gday Bob, that is a good solution for an Aux oiler. So good I might just nick it. ....or something like it.

Ive decided I will make a new mill now I know what is required and what works. Will accommodate a 36" bar.

Still undecided as to whether to go for solid nose or sprocket. Apparently solid takes away some power and is harder on the chain, but unless you are burying the chain in dirt, sprocket is much better for power and the life of chain?

..Actually, now I think about (again ) a solid nose would be better for adding things like the oiler and bolting the mill to, as well as probably being cheaper?........cripes, now I'm thinking a solid nose bar with a mill bolted to it would have to be more durable than a riveted sprocket nose?