Thread: alaskan small log mill

I might be wrong, but isn't Weisy talking about aligning the saw at the start of the cut? He wants more support at the beginning of the cut, meaning more length on the front of the mill?




Looks like you got home safely Bobl without the mind numbing conversation of the Weagles in your ear?

you got it matrix i was thinking of putting the piece right threw and about 4" farther out the front.

yeah, I was thinking you could just screw a board onto the mill to give you some extra length at the front. The only disadvantage of that is that you wont be able to see the bar anymore.

Maybe someone else has a bright idea to give you more length at the front without obscuring the bar?

Originally Posted by martrix

Looks like you got home safely Bobl without the mind numbing conversation of the Weagles in your ear?

Cheers Martrix, No Eagles, just the Richmond boys, One of them had some er . . .. "interesting pictures" on their laptops.

maby i could use perspex

the only problem with screwing something to the underside of the jig is that it would put the depth markings out.

Could you replace the top piece with a bigger bit and attach a bit of tubing the some thickness as the rails to it. That way you don't affect the height settings. Even run a longer one from on top to stiffen the whole lot up.

Weisbyboy, I am at a loss to understand the problem. I can understand what you are describing, but it does not relate to my experience. For the second cut you just rest the front bar on the flat surface left by the previous cut. If you are concerned about having the chain point either slightly up or down at the start of the cut, the centre cross piece at the end of the perspect, if resting on the flat surface, rectifies this problem. It is just a matter of starting the cut. It will be level and parallel to the previous cut. Maybe a photo of you starting the cut may help.

yes bob my problem is that it is hard to keep the bar level at the start of the cut as there is nothing supporting the rear guide rail.
but maybe i joust need to have another go at it will try again on Tuesday when i get back home.

Originally Posted by weisyboy

yes bob my problem is that it is hard to keep the bar level at the start of the cut as there is nothing supporting the rear guide rail.
but maybe i joust need to have another go at it will try again on Tuesday when i get back home.

I see your perceived problem. I assume you perform the first cut with a set of rails or a straight board or something level - lets call it "x" - it's the green thing in my picture. "x" can be arranged to overhang the front of the log by sufficient so both CS mill rails are supported in the right position and you just slide it into the log.

The second and subsequent cuts can be done without "x" but if "x" is thin enough you can use "x" for every cut since it smooths out the defects in the previous . Some people always use "x" all the time.

Here are some good shots showing some nice rails.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=36470


Cheers

BobL, I have been following that thread. Have you seen similar material in Aus. Beats the hell out of starting the cut with 4x2s.

thats what i did but i used my 2x4 s instead of those uni-struts or whatever their called any one know where i can get some

Originally Posted by BobL

Good one Weisy,




Cheers

that bar hasnt been used much

Here you go Weisy, get in contact with the distributor for someone local to you. Be warned though it's not cheap stuff

An alternative I have been exploring is something called door track available at steel dealers. It comes in various grades from 1 - 1.6mm thick and costs a bit less than unistrut (the 1mm $12/m) but it was still not what you would call cheap. I have seen it on special for a lot less - DANG - I should have bought it then. As one would nominally need 2 lengths of say 3 or 4 metres which works out for $70 -$100. At that point I personally would be looking around for second hand stuff or even a second hand Al ladder.

A cheaper alternative for short logs is something like slotted angle which you can pick up 2m lengths for about $10.

Fortunately for me I have just "picked up" a dozen old steel bookshelf frames made of 19mm SHS. The frames are welded up up in the shape of a ladder, a hacksaw and a couple of hours with a welder should create something interesting.

RE: Bar not used much.
Dead right - it hasn't been used at all! I'm still finishing the mill. Everytime I talk to BIL we come up with a new mod! Right now I'm rebuilding the cams to make them a bit stronger and adding 2 new cams to the adjustment capability. As I like building tools I don't mind doing this but it frustrates a few people I know who want to "go mill logs"!

Cheers