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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default AnyTips for milling ironbark??

    Let me know what's best to put on end of logs to reduce cracking? I heard roof sealant not bad??
    Will be receiving iron bark logs soon any tips for milling it with an Alaskan mill using Husq 395.
    Thinking maybe be bigger saw?? more$$$$, not sure..

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Dorrigo
    Posts
    457

    Default

    There is a commercial product available for timber sealing. Pretty sure it's from caltex and is called Timber Seal. Costs about $70 for a 20ltr drum.
    The Husky should handle the iron bark but get it cut sooner rather than later.
    Cheers
    Steve.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    hard yakka cutting that stuff even when its green.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Gatton, Qld
    Age
    48
    Posts
    3,064

    Default

    Morgan, it'll be really hard to stop ironbark cut ends from splitting. I've had ironbark which I've docked at one end, ran a tape over, marked my distance with paint and made the second cut, gone back to the first cut and it already had a star shaped split. Nothing will be able to stop splitting that quick. If you can, get the logs cut over length, this will allow you to dock any bad splits from it. Once they are boards, the splitting will be much smaller/shorter

    As for cutting - your 395 will be good enough for it, but like Steve said, once the ironbark starts drying out, it'll get much harder on the saw, all saws like it green.

    Hope it helps. let us know how you go - post some pics
    I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
    Allan.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Pimpama
    Age
    54
    Posts
    118

    Default

    Another tip for cutting iron bark (and other trees with rough bark that dust and grit can hide in) is to remove the bark before you cut the log. This will hopefully help your chains last longer between sharpenings. Cutting green as also mentioned will make life easier.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,795

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    This stuff, like most hard eucalyptii, case hardens pretty quickly so the end of the log you first plunge your chain into seriously blunts the chain just as you are getting started on a log. What I do, even on fairly green logs is dock an inch or so of the ends of the log just before I mill it. Chain sharpness lasts a bit longer that way.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Busselton, WA
    Posts
    708

    Default cutting ironbark

    Totally agree with BobL,over here in WA the equivalent eucalypt would be wandoo, to cut this with my bandsaw I have to take 3 inches off the leading end or my blades will dive at the start of each cut. Debarking is a big thing to, and even then pressure cleaning logs can also help.Another good tip for blade and band mill owners to is to put dish washing liquid in your water bottle with such dense, sappy eucalypts. With a chain mill dont be afraid of spraying diesel on your chain before each cut, helps to slow sap build up. ALL THE BEST ON OZ DAY, Nev

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, Brisbane
    Posts
    5,800

    Default

    you shouldn't have any problems milling Ironbark(depending on the type). it mills better than most of the hardwoods round here even thow it is so hard.

    ya shouldn't have any problems with sap buildup nothing like in spotty or blue gum.

    it defiately needs barking or you will never get threw it.

    www.carlweiss.com.au
    Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
    8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.

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