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  1. #1
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    Feb 2009
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    Tasmania
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    Default Chainsaw Carriage Mill Build with 4-Stroke Engine - Questions

    I've been going through the process of collecting parts for a sawmill that I have wanted to build for a while. I have a Granberg style mill that I haven't used much, but I wanted to make a more stable platform with some more power. I have some steel U channel for some tracks, enough for about 6m and it should be pretty solid once it's braced and mounted on some sleepers. I have some machinery to be able to move logs and slabs so I might be able to save the back a bit. That also means that portability is not a priority. The plan is to make the track about 1.5m wide, but I'll probably only run a 42" bar for starters unless I can get a longer one cheap . I have a 16" circular saw bench that I am adapting to use to break down slabs if required rather than use a chainsaw mill, but that's another thread completely.

    The engine I have is a Kawasaki 23HP vertical shaft that I will use to spin a jack shaft attached to the chain sprocket. That's where my indecision comes in, that age old question of whether to run 3/8 or 404 chain and what sprocket to use. It seems that most people who use a chainsaw sprocket instead of a processor one, end up welding a sprocket rim to the end of the shaft. Just thinking out loud here, but it seems that a processor style sprocket with a keyway makes more sense in both ease of securing it and in increasing chain speed a bit. Those processor sprockets seem to all be for 404 chain or bigger, so I want to know some opinions on whether using 404 chain over 3/8 would be an advantage or not. I haven't ever broken any chains, so I don't know what they can take as far as horse power etc. I have also never operated a saw with 404 chain.

    The pictures are of the latest Blackwood to fall across the fence. Well half of it anyway as the other half is still standing. The butt section is about 1.2m across and 2.5m long while the main barrel is about 1m in diameter and 5.2m long. There's also a heap of branches etc that are 40-50cm in diameter, so It should yield some nice timber.

    Any advice or suggestions etc would be greatly appreciated.

    Simon


    279682487_5135158976522190_7455429129794349988_n.jpg279534532_1187073048813014_4818552723156713254_n.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Given you are using a 23HP engine that will place a considerable strain on any chain. If you were to use too small a chain with motor it will stretch the chain - this means it will eventually no long ride safely on the sprockets and either keep jumping sprockets and eventually it will break. In that case I would stick with 404 chain.


    FWIW 3/8 chain does not have that much a smaller a kerf than 404 chain. To gain a significant reduction in kerf size you would have to go to the next size down chain but a 23HP chain will destroy that chain.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Default

    Thanks BobL, that's the sort of stuff I need to know. I did originally plan to use a Tecumseh 11 or 12 HP engine off an Ariens ride-on mower until the Kawasaki came up. I thought that the power would be a bit of overkill compared to something like the Lucas alternative that uses a 16HP engine I think. Exactly how much overkill isn't something you know about until you test it out I suppose. If I plan for it, I could probably swap the engine for something else if the Kawasaki turns out to be too much.

    Anyway, I'll hunt down some 404 sized parts. I read some of your past posts about the difference between the kerf sizes of various chains and it seems like any extra loss would be minimal and I have the Alaskan mill that I can run a thinner chain on for the smaller diameter stuff. Thanks again.

    Simon

  5. #4
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    The Kawasaki with a 404 chain and lowered rakers should really chew though the wood although finish may not be so good.

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