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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Atherton tableland
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    Question Tyres for bandsaw portamill "little ripper"

    My first post. Good to meet everyone.

    I have recently bought this second hand bandsaw.

    Can anyone advise the best place for blades? The length is 3045mm and 50mm wide. I am cutting mainly hardwoods blue gum and northern grey box.

    Can anyone advise on the wheel tyres? Can you buy crowned tyres, as the wheels are flat? Again they are metric 400mm (15.6556 inches I believe). The width are 50mm (2 inches).

    Any additional tips for this machine would be very appreciated (I'm a novice when it comes to working with timber)

    Current use is to cut flitches only (I am building two log cottages) to give a flat face (avg 60 to 70mm).

    Thanks
    Last edited by lambertod; 18th July 2013 at 08:07 AM. Reason: correction

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Emerald, Qld
    Age
    56
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    103

    Default

    Welcome to Forum, I am guessing the Machine you have is the One made in Coluondra by Dinasaw Industries. I knew a bloke that had one of these years Ago. My understanding is that they used a 2" Stellite tipped blade, Maybe someone else on the Forum may have more Info on them. From What I remember the had an alloy wheel without a tyre, The Alignment was adjusted so that the Teeth were just proud of the wheel, Similar to the Laidlaw Bushmill. I get my Bands from Henry Brothers in NSW. Any chance you can post a couple of photos of yours.
    Henry Brothers541 Old Hawkesbury Road,Vineyard, NSW, 2765, Australia Phone: 2 9627 5486
    Cheers,
    Jon

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    ACT
    Age
    84
    Posts
    2,578

    Default

    Hi,
    Welcome to the forum.
    Just a little point, I think you have the point in the wrong place for your blade length.
    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Busselton, WA
    Posts
    708

    Default

    Show us a pic of what you have and I can help out

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Atherton tableland
    Posts
    24

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by newjon View Post
    Welcome to Forum, I am guessing the Machine you have is the One made in Coluondra by Dinasaw Industries. I knew a bloke that had one of these years Ago. My understanding is that they used a 2" Stellite tipped blade, Maybe someone else on the Forum may have more Info on them. From What I remember the had an alloy wheel without a tyre, The Alignment was adjusted so that the Teeth were just proud of the wheel, Similar to the Laidlaw Bushmill. I get my Bands from Henry Brothers in NSW. Any chance you can post a couple of photos of yours.
    Henry Brothers541 Old Hawkesbury Road,Vineyard, NSW, 2765, Australia Phone: 2 9627 5486
    Cheers,
    Jon
    Thanks Jon,

    Yes, that's right made in Coluondra. At this stage I've ordered 3 TCB 2" x 1 TPI Supply 2" x 1 TPI x 3040 mm Simmonds Redstreak Timber Cutting Bi-Metal Bandsaw Blade @ $95 each (Henry brothers $126). I've seen another little ripper locally and it also has wheel tyres.

    I will take some photos and post later today.

    Thanks

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Atherton tableland
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    24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by A Duke View Post
    Hi,
    Welcome to the forum.
    Just a little point, I think you have the point in the wrong place for your blade length.
    Regards
    Thanks Duke

  8. #7
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    Jul 2013
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    Atherton tableland
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    Default

    Sorry about the photo quality (only photo I had on computer). I will take some more photos and post later.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #8
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    Jul 2013
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    Default

    I think I might try some 1.5" blades in the future there much cheaper. Is that a bad idea?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Busselton, WA
    Posts
    708

    Default

    Cool Never seen one, How many HP are driving this puppy? How big are the wheels again by the way? never had a lot of luck with bi metal blades or stellite tip for that matter. Just good ol hardened steel with the teeth set to my liking. The area with a bandsaw blade to experiment with in our hardwoods is tooth pitch. I use 4 degree teeth on all hardwoods now and won't be tempted on anything else?

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Age
    62
    Posts
    2,236

    Default

    For the size of log (they look like old telephone poles) you have there you could even go smaller 1" or 1 1/4" width of blade, I'd stay with 1tpi, if you were doing wide stuff the 2" gives you less blade deflection problems, if the logs are dry the carbide tip blade will work well and last longer, they will also cut green stuff as well but but sap/resin buildup on the blade seems to be more of a pain, although if you are only cutting hardwoods may not be much of an issue, if you run water/detergent coolant on the blade the buildup can be reduced and some blade brushes are a good idea if only to polish/clean the blade, if you don't use the machine for a time make sure you dry the blade cos you don't want rust creating pits which then give weak points and lead to blade breaking and that's not a nice moment if your in the zone and a blade suddenly goes bang, completely spoils the moment, the blade will start to jump forward every revolution if it's opened up a crack in the gullet so keep an eye on it, check your blade by slowly rotating and eyeballing it and let a finger nail drag along the blade which will catch on a crack if starting.

    The bimetal blade can be sharpened as can the CT, my local saw doc will only do the bimetal, he just touches the tips of the teeth and doesn't do the gullet, I had one guy sharpen them, he also reshaped the gullet in the process with IMO a far too course wheel and left multiple initiation points for cracks to start not a good thing, in green timber the bimetal also will give good perfomance and to my thinking due to the set on the teeth less issues with sap/resin buildup

    It looks like some rubber has come off one of those wheels, there are places that will re-rubber tyres and they should be able grind a crown into the rubber.

    I think Nifty is refering to the tooth angle, the woodmasterB and CT are about 10° which when straight out of the box and nice and sharp and depending how the BS is tuned the 10° can cause the blade to bite into the wood too much and drag itself off the wheels or drag the wood into the blade, less of an issue with larger lumps of wood tho, you may have to set the wheel alignment such that the blade is riding on the rear blade bearing/bush for a time until a you get a little bit of tooth dulling which may take a few cuts.

    Hope that is of some help


    Pete

  12. #11
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    Jul 2013
    Location
    Atherton tableland
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by nifty View Post
    Cool Never seen one, How many HP are driving this puppy? How big are the wheels again by the way? never had a lot of luck with bi metal blades or stellite tip for that matter. Just good ol hardened steel with the teeth set to my liking. The area with a bandsaw blade to experiment with in our hardwoods is tooth pitch. I use 4 degree teeth on all hardwoods now and won't be tempted on anything else?
    Thanks Nifty,

    The wheels are 400mm and run by 5.5hp honda. It's been serviced whilst I'm looking for tyres.

  13. #12
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    Jul 2013
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by pjt View Post
    For the size of log (they look like old telephone poles) you have there you could even go smaller 1" or 1 1/4" width of blade, I'd stay with 1tpi, if you were doing wide stuff the 2" gives you less blade deflection problems, if the logs are dry the carbide tip blade will work well and last longer, they will also cut green stuff as well but but sap/resin buildup on the blade seems to be more of a pain, although if you are only cutting hardwoods may not be much of an issue, if you run water/detergent coolant on the blade the buildup can be reduced and some blade brushes are a good idea if only to polish/clean the blade, if you don't use the machine for a time make sure you dry the blade cos you don't want rust creating pits which then give weak points and lead to blade breaking and that's not a nice moment if your in the zone and a blade suddenly goes bang, completely spoils the moment, the blade will start to jump forward every revolution if it's opened up a crack in the gullet so keep an eye on it, check your blade by slowly rotating and eyeballing it and let a finger nail drag along the blade which will catch on a crack if starting.

    The bimetal blade can be sharpened as can the CT, my local saw doc will only do the bimetal, he just touches the tips of the teeth and doesn't do the gullet, I had one guy sharpen them, he also reshaped the gullet in the process with IMO a far too course wheel and left multiple initiation points for cracks to start not a good thing, in green timber the bimetal also will give good perfomance and to my thinking due to the set on the teeth less issues with sap/resin buildup

    It looks like some rubber has come off one of those wheels, there are places that will re-rubber tyres and they should be able grind a crown into the rubber.

    I think Nifty is refering to the tooth angle, the woodmasterB and CT are about 10° which when straight out of the box and nice and sharp and depending how the BS is tuned the 10° can cause the blade to bite into the wood too much and drag itself off the wheels or drag the wood into the blade, less of an issue with larger lumps of wood tho, you may have to set the wheel alignment such that the blade is riding on the rear blade bearing/bush for a time until a you get a little bit of tooth dulling which may take a few cuts.

    Hope that is of some help


    Pete
    Thanks Pete

    Useful tips

    I'm cutting mainly northern grey box and blue gum. Some lemon scented and bloodwood. I will probably avoid the bloodwood after your tips.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    warragul, victoria australia
    Posts
    1,098

    Default Tyres

    ask bushmiller I think he had one. I have the plans somewhere for that particular mill and it does not have "TYRES" the wheels are machined to a step on the rearward side and the tension is what gives the required grip to drive. Also they are not crowned and should not be for a band of that width crowning is for wider bands (6 inch and wider) where the blade has "tension" hammered or rolled into it to keep the cutting edge tight.
    Travis

    *EDIT* sorry just got the photos up and it does look like they are rubber lagged however I would still say that crowning is unnecessary
    I am told that sharpening handsaws is a dying art.... this must mean I am an artisan.

    Get your handsaws sharpened properly to the highest possible standard, the only way they should be done, BY HAND, BY ME!!! I only accept perfection in any saw I sharpen.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Edwards View Post
    ask bushmiller I think he had one. I have the plans somewhere for that particular mill and it does not have "TYRES" the wheels are machined to a step on the rearward side and the tension is what gives the required grip to drive. "Also they are not crowned" and should not be for a band of that width crowning is for wider bands (6 inch and wider) where the blade has "tension" hammered or rolled into it to keep the cutting edge tight.
    Travis

    *EDIT* sorry just got the photos up and it does look like they are rubber lagged however I would still say that crowning is unnecessary
    Thanks Travis,

    I tracked down the guy that use to make these and advised that the tyres should be crowned. I also recently spoke to a local guy who has one of these and his tyres are crowned.

    Olly

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Atherton tableland
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by newjon View Post
    Welcome to Forum, I am guessing the Machine you have is the One made in Coluondra by Dinasaw Industries. I knew a bloke that had one of these years Ago. My understanding is that they used a 2" Stellite tipped blade, Maybe someone else on the Forum may have more Info on them. From What I remember the had an alloy wheel without a tyre, The Alignment was adjusted so that the Teeth were just proud of the wheel, Similar to the Laidlaw Bushmill. I get my Bands from Henry Brothers in NSW. Any chance you can post a couple of photos of yours.
    Henry Brothers541 Old Hawkesbury Road,Vineyard, NSW, 2765, Australia Phone: 2 9627 5486
    Cheers,
    Jon
    I have posted photos, see above.

    Cheers,

    Olly

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