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Thread: Bridge Timbers

  1. #16
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    Hi InterTD6,
    Thanks for the info, sounds like you know a little about the saw .. any ideas if I can still get blades and where ? The secondary blade looks as though it should have replaceable teeth in it (has none now) the main blade I have is a 50 tooth which cuts OK but looking around to see if there is anything else available. The largest diameter I could fit in would be 780mm.
    Cheers
    Bob.

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  3. #17
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    Bob, I can only say specifics on Lucas blades, but you might be able to try central saws (03) 5443 1877 give them your detaisl regarding the blade and I'm sure they will have something to suit.

    Worth a try
    I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
    Allan.

  4. #18
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    Thanks Sigidi,
    I will give them a go. I reckon once I get myself sorted I am going to need somewhere that can sharpen etc as well so I am guessing they will do the lot.
    cant wait to get ome and get cutting !

  5. #19
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    I dont know too much about your saw specifically, but can see by the design,blade diameter & the engine that it was a safer replacement for the hargen type mill, which claimed many lives. SAWTEC in coffs harbour can manufacture blades for all types of milling equipement, so they might be able to source the original specs for the blades you require.
    regards inter

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by InterTD6 View Post
    which claimed many lives
    Hi Inter ...... thanks for thip on where to get the blades, any tips on where to get some cheap life insurance !!

  7. #21
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    Ironbark Bob, can't promise I'll know all the answers for you, but you'll get a heck of a lot of info from the forum here in general.

    There are a few things to think about with respect to sawing.

    First and foremost is what is the board to be used for? This will determine how much spring and/or bow it will be acceptable for the piece of timber to have, thereby governing a lot where and how it can be cut from your beams.

    Then some things/projects require the timber to be QS (quarter sawn) or BS (backsawn) for example decking needs to be BS or it will split everywhere the nails get driven through it and then nothing holds the deck board down anymore. More often than not cabinet timber is better if QS as over time it is more stable.

    With these two in mind that will go a long way to dictating what is the best way to cut the boards you want, at least you are starting with square pieces of timber rather than round logs, that's a bit of a bonus huh?
    I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
    Allan.

  8. #22
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    Hi Sig, yeah gotta lot to learn thats for sure. This is my first go at sawying, have tapped up quite a few bits of furniture but always with wood from the store.
    My uncle works for the railways and that is how I ended up with these beams. Probably sounds a bit dumb but there is something more romantic about sawying the timber and then cabinet making with it, seems more complete.
    I looked around for someone to do the job for me, got some infof rom the Lucas guys at the Sydney woodworking show. Contacted the local Lucas sawyer here in Sydney but he wanted to buy the beams from me rather than cut ... not what I wanted then came across this saw (will put up some pics next week) and it seemed like a good idea, I love a new toy.
    It seems from what people have told me I have a reasonable stack of timber with some good potential and dont want to stuff it up, actually seems like it might be like feeding strawberrys to a pig at this stage.
    I really appreciate all the info so far and, without becoming a pain, want to keep on asking questions as I go. Understand it is hard without pics and as I say will get to that as soon as I get home.

  9. #23
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    Well made it home and here are some pics of the saw. I only have the two blades that are seen in the pictures. The one that is sitting on the saw (without the gaurd on) is a 780mm.
    The piece of finished timber just has some Cabots clear on it, beatiful grain.

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