Thread: CCA treated drying sticks?

When in doubt, dont use them. there are two things I dont do be it that the timber is going into my kilns or the shed. I would never use green sticks and I would not even use sticks that are wet, I keep mine in the shed. Take a look at the timber you have just cut after a few days and see if ther is any sign of mould developing ong the sapwood. If so use dry sticks not of the same species. Over here in WA marri and sheoak can be notorious for stick stain if your not careful. Ive even copped stick stain from some reused sticks that had been sprayed with borax inthe previous pack of flooring I used them in.

Sticker stain usually goes about 10 to 15mm deep.
So if you get it on both faces, then the board will be worthless as each face has stain.
AS2796 does not allow sticker stain on any exposed face in any grade.
So you can imagine the amount of T&G flooring we send to the chipper when we get sticker stain.

Wow thats deep and a big problem. I'm surprised. Next time you're thinking of chipping some I'd like to get some - you guessed it - to cut up for drying sticks!

what if u used little bits like pyramds?

or aluminium angel on cornerways.

Aluminium angle would work I'd say...not game to buy enough to try it though...

Ali (or steel) angle is a no go.
Due to the weight of the wood on the upper layers pressing down, the lower rows get grooves in them from the sharp edges of the angle.
So, you get wood with grooves that is just as bad as stickerstain. Wood no good.

trevor i like the part where your quoting the AS code. anyway down here where its cold and raining, i try and use same species stickers. if i run out the first thing i go for is the treated stickers. from what i've seen (very little) the sticker or timber with the least amount of tannins in it is more preferred. southern mahogany (E.botryoides) is by far the worst eucalypt i have ever incountered for stain, sends everything black within a few days. anyway thats my 2 cents.