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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    NC USA
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    70
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    5

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    You are correct the 10 degree I use is the top plate angle. But also the other 10 degree on the rackers I use is like the brown line on your diagram. I just tilt my grinder to 10 and use a flat stone. I always take a dull chain off and replace with a sharp one. For sure that's a PITA. I probably should try hand sharpening on the bar and see how that works for me. I've sharpen lots of chain saw chains on the bar but not sure how I would do sideways on the mill.
    Thanks for the advise I might go ahead and order the Wixey and see how it works. I'm all in for improvement.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,792

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    Quote Originally Posted by xlogger View Post
    You are correct the 10 degree I use is the top plate angle. But also the other 10 degree on the rackers I use is like the brown line on your diagram.
    Just so as you are sure
    The red, blue, green and brown lines all have the same "raker angle" because they have the same maximum height of the raker.

    Saw chain advise-raker2009-jpg

    What they have different is different "raker top angles" which is different to "Raker angle

    This is "raker angle". It's determined by the "raker depth" (below the cutter) and the gullet width.

    Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 6.40.54 pm.png

    It is possible to have 2º "raker angle" and 20º "raker top angle" and the saw would just make dust - not chips.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    NC USA
    Age
    70
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I just order the Wixey, going to give it a try. thanks

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Cherrybrook,NSW
    Posts
    344

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    Just turn the mill and chainsaw onto it's side like you would do for normal cross cutting with a chainsaw and sharpen it that way with the hand file. I prefer hand sharpening over machine grinding as I find that I can get the chain to stay sharper for longer that with the grinder.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    NC USA
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    70
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    Default

    Be a little hard to turn Turbo saw on it's side

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,792

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    Tipping the mill over on its side is one thing, but finding a suitable surface at the right height do that so chains can be touched up is another.
    For a while I used a couple of trestles but balancing the mill on these was not easy.
    Bobsold-tressles.jpg

    So I made up a custom lowish height trestle table to sit the mill on while I touch up the chain.

    folded.jpg

    The top of the table has 3 B&C lube drum lids screwed into the top into which mill feet can sit.
    The mill feet also keep the B&C out of the dirt when it's on the ground.
    The mill feet sit inside these lids so the saw can be, fuelled, warmed up , cooled dow and even tuned, while on top of the table and it won't rattle its way off the top

    Table2.jpg

    Table3.jpg

    To sharpen I tip the mill over and clamp a mill rail to the edge of the table to stop it moving while its being touched up.
    Note the long horizontal handle on the mill, it's higher up than regular mills, if that handle is too low down it interferes with chain touching up access.
    I can even sit down on a plastic chair and sharpen with this setup.

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