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Thread: Saw chain advise
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4th October 2017, 08:49 PM #16New Member
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You are correct the 10 degree I use is the top plate angle. But also the other 10 degree on the rackers I use is like the brown line on your diagram. I just tilt my grinder to 10 and use a flat stone. I always take a dull chain off and replace with a sharp one. For sure that's a PITA. I probably should try hand sharpening on the bar and see how that works for me. I've sharpen lots of chain saw chains on the bar but not sure how I would do sideways on the mill.
Thanks for the advise I might go ahead and order the Wixey and see how it works. I'm all in for improvement.
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4th October 2017, 09:45 PM #17.
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Just so as you are sure
The red, blue, green and brown lines all have the same "raker angle" because they have the same maximum height of the raker.
What they have different is different "raker top angles" which is different to "Raker angle
This is "raker angle". It's determined by the "raker depth" (below the cutter) and the gullet width.
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 6.40.54 pm.png
It is possible to have 2º "raker angle" and 20º "raker top angle" and the saw would just make dust - not chips.
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5th October 2017, 09:02 PM #18New Member
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I just order the Wixey, going to give it a try. thanks
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7th October 2017, 08:25 AM #19Senior Member
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Just turn the mill and chainsaw onto it's side like you would do for normal cross cutting with a chainsaw and sharpen it that way with the hand file. I prefer hand sharpening over machine grinding as I find that I can get the chain to stay sharper for longer that with the grinder.
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7th October 2017, 08:10 PM #20New Member
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Be a little hard to turn Turbo saw on it's side
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7th October 2017, 09:16 PM #21.
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Tipping the mill over on its side is one thing, but finding a suitable surface at the right height do that so chains can be touched up is another.
For a while I used a couple of trestles but balancing the mill on these was not easy.
Bobsold-tressles.jpg
So I made up a custom lowish height trestle table to sit the mill on while I touch up the chain.
folded.jpg
The top of the table has 3 B&C lube drum lids screwed into the top into which mill feet can sit.
The mill feet also keep the B&C out of the dirt when it's on the ground.
The mill feet sit inside these lids so the saw can be, fuelled, warmed up , cooled dow and even tuned, while on top of the table and it won't rattle its way off the top
Table2.jpg
Table3.jpg
To sharpen I tip the mill over and clamp a mill rail to the edge of the table to stop it moving while its being touched up.
Note the long horizontal handle on the mill, it's higher up than regular mills, if that handle is too low down it interferes with chain touching up access.
I can even sit down on a plastic chair and sharpen with this setup.
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