Thread: chainsaw chain availability

Pretty much anyone that can make you a chain should be able to regrind to your requirements.

Hello shedbound, Wow that was quick. I did grind a smaller chain back with reasonable results on my little electric sharpener but thought it would waste less tooth length if I could get one off the shelf. I took the smaller chain back
to 0 deg. I would also like to get something that would allow me to take the rakers down to 35 thou. rather than
doing it by eye. (old eyes)

regards Flicker

You don't need to take the top plate filing angle back to 10º immediately, just do it over successive sharpenings.
A 10º top plate filing angle is supposed to give a better finish but I can generate just as goo a finish with a 25º chain as a 10º chain.
The key is to operate the saw is a smooth constant pressure fashion and not to see-saw the CS down the log.
The way to get constant pressure on the saw is to use your legs and knees press on the wrap handle rather than pushing with arms/shoulders.
stance2.jpg
Placing the log on a slope means the weight of the mill will provide some constant downward pressure.
The more slope you can place the log on the more self generated downward pressure is generated but you don't need much slope
stance1.jpg


In terms of rakers it is much better to use a constant raker-cutter-wood angle than a constant raker depth.
cutterangle.jpg
A simple way to generate a constant angle is to use a fixed gullet width to raker depth ratio.
Most new 3/8 chain has a 0.25" gullet and a 0.025" raker depth (ie a 10:1) ratio
To maintain the same ratio, when the chain wears and the gullet is 0.50" the rakers should be 0.050"

I do this using a Digital Angle Finder (DAF).
rakersetting.m4v - YouTube
Of course I do not do this every time I file tetheh rakers but rather I do it once and then swipe the rakers after every 3-4 times I touch up the cutters.
Then at the end of the milling day I might just check a couple of rakers and if they are way out I use the DAF and reset them again.

This method will keep you chain cutting like new until the cutters start to break off.

Hello Bob L, thanks very much for detailed information,pictures and link.
You may have gleemed that I'm a novice even if 70+. I've made only 1 slab todate and found working on my knees a bit too much. I had thought of putting something like a mower handle on it so I could stand but think I'll adopt your system.
I will be reading and rereading your post to gain as much detail as I can.

I had found getting the second cut the most difficult part and have a question if I might.

Do you use your ladder on successive cuts or only on the first ?

I like your adjustable ladder and your system will save me making an extended throttle system.

Many Thanks.

Flicker

SAM_0433.jpgSAM_0435.jpgSAM_0432.jpg
this is my little setup, if you can get any ideas that may help, made from an old bike and a few other bits and pieces
this log I had to halve manually to get in the mill, I agree with Bob I also take the angle back gradually to get the most from a chain.

Originally Posted by flicker

Hello Bob L, thanks very much for detailed information,pictures and link.
You may have gleemed that I'm a novice even if 70+. I've made only 1 slab todate and found working on my knees a bit too much. I had thought of putting something like a mower handle on it so I could stand but think I'll adopt your system.
I will be reading and rereading your post to gain as much detail as I can.

Well you struck the laziest chainsaw miller I know and I have done heaps of testing to minimize the effort needed to extract timber out of logs.

If you want a broad intro to Chainsaw milling have a read of this website.
http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/
The first sticky is Chainsaw Milling 101 - lots of good pics and ideas there.

I had found getting the second cut the most difficult part and have a question if I might.
Do you use your ladder on successive cuts or only on the first ?

I have used other peoples ladders but I use a set of log rails made out of unistrut held together with all thread.
Yes I use them for every cut, as it enables me to continually remove twist from slabs.

I like your adjustable ladder and your system will save me making an extended throttle system.

Outboard throttles don't need to be fancy. When I mill with my smaller Stihl 441 I start and stop the saw manually but otherwise slip a cable tie loop over the trigger and just run it WOT - it works pretty well. I have a tacho on my saw and adjust the revs using pressure on the saw with my legs

Thanks shedbound and bob L.

regards Flickerl

Hello fella's I got myself a D.A.F. sharpened the saw and set the rakers on one chain (firewood saw).

I'd like confirmation of my math, does the angle remain at about 5 deg. regardless of the state of wear ?

Regards Flicker.

I'll try and show the firewood saw.

I would use a bit more than 5º for the raker angle.

I'd start at 6º and see how you go.

If the saw is too grabby go back to 5.5º. If you can still handle it take it up further to 6.5 or maybe even 7º.

Once you find a raker angle that works for you then you can stick with that angle regardless of the state of wear of the chain.

The cutters will eventually look a little odd because the rakers are so low but the chain will continue to cut right up until the cutters are so short one or two will break off under load - then that is the end of that chain.

BTW in North American Softwoods some guys are using 7.5º, the saw is grabby as hell but they cuts like a hot knife thru warm butter

Originally Posted by flicker

Hello fella's I got myself a D.A.F. sharpened the saw and set the rakers on one chain (firewood saw).

I'd like confirmation of my math, does the angle remain at about 5 deg. regardless of the state of wear ?

Regards Flicker.

I'll try and show the firewood saw.

I was sure I posted on this already?!?!?!

I suggested you contact forum member "sawchain" I get my saw chains and slabbing chains from him, does a good price

Hello Sigidi, No that was someone else, I did see your post though.The other chap was talking of "rolls" of chain.

I'm taking smaller steps.


Regards flicker

Originally Posted by flicker

Hello Sigidi, No that was someone else, I did see your post though.The other chap was talking of "rolls" of chain.

I'm taking smaller steps.


Regards flicker

Aha, sometimes posts blend into the fog in my brain Sawchain will do loops for you too, I don't buy rolls usually I get 5-6 loops at a time and they aresent in one of those post bags - less then $10 Aust wide I think or not much more

Originally Posted by flicker

Hello All, I would like to try cutting a slab or 2 and cannot find the chain I want.

3/8" pitch 84 links 0.063"

I would like to get one with 10 Deg or less as I don't want to file the tooth away to get the angle.

Can anyone advise where these migh be purchased in Australia.

Regards flicker.

I have both 3/8x063 & 3/8x058 10° ripping chain in stock, PM me. .... Laurie

(not to hijack the thread but...) G'day laurie!! how the heck are ya mate? pleased to see you still lurking around