Thread: Chainsaw sharpening

Originally Posted by Barry_White

Just a few other comments because I didn't have time to add any more because SWMBO had dinner on the table and she gets agro if I don't come straight away and I will get punished.

I use this out when getting firewood and when the chain gets worn down about half way I put it on the 240 volt electric one to get all the teeth equal again or if I have hit the Granite soil, because that really takes the edge off a chain.

BW I am thinking that part of the problem I have is I have been just sharpening up the chain with the file and although the teeth seem sharp and straight I use the saw and find it tracks straight off line and then jambs as it is trying to cut ä "U" and then the bar gets stuck.

Does the 240V sharpener you use fix the blade so it will then track straight? Is the type the same as David G has? What is the price of these?

I find the file is fine for touch up and perhaps properly tuned so will be the dremel type with one of those industrial diamond bits instead of the stones.

I need something that I can use at home to get the chain into good shape before I head out west - I am now accumulating some spare chains and can find the time at home to prepare as my trips are only once or twice a year.

Thanks for the feedback guys lots of great info here. No wonder this is called the brains trust - very diverse ways and many have merit.

As for using the dremel type and finding it takes too much off when I used mine I just did two gentle strokes and this worked fine - but with oversized stone - what a disaster - but out in the bush i had nothing else and just hacked up the chain in order to get some kind of cutting edge - oh well one for experience. That was two trips ago - this time I just used a file - it got me by but as I said I found the saw wasn't tracking straight and I want to fix this now.

Originally Posted by Dean

Let me correct that. The speed range is actually 200 - 5000 RPM

Does this have the little threaded end that fits into a dremel type attachment that i can use in the granberg sharpener?

Originally Posted by TEEJAY

BW I am thinking that part of the problem I have is I have been just sharpening up the chain with the file and although the teeth seem sharp and straight I use the saw and find it tracks straight off line and then jambs as it is trying to cut ä "U" and then the bar gets stuck.

Does the 240V sharpener you use fix the blade so it will then track straight? Is the type the same as David G has? What is the price of these?

I find the file is fine for touch up and perhaps properly tuned so will be the dremel type with one of those industrial diamond bits instead of the stones.

I need something that I can use at home to get the chain into good shape before I head out west - I am now accumulating some spare chains and can find the time at home to prepare as my trips are only once or twice a year.

Thanks for the feedback guys lots of great info here. No wonder this is called the brains trust - very diverse ways and many have merit.

As for using the dremel type and finding it takes too much off when I used mine I just did two gentle strokes and this worked fine - but with oversized stone - what a disaster - but out in the bush i had nothing else and just hacked up the chain in order to get some kind of cutting edge - oh well one for experience. That was two trips ago - this time I just used a file - it got me by but as I said I found the saw wasn't tracking straight and I want to fix this now.

Teejay

Not the same brand as DavidG but works on the same principle.

I had bought a new chain and I cut up a very big log that was full of dirt carried into it by the ants and by the time i had finished cutting it the chain was very blunt. I tried sharpening it with the hand jig but I ended up getting the teeth uneven and it ended up like you said cutting in a curve and jambing the saw.

I put it on the 240 volt sharpener and evened up all the teeth and hey presto it was just like a new one.

If you have a heap of chains it would be ideal for what you want to do. The best part about it is that it levels all the teeth up and this is the sort of thing the chainsaw shops use.

The most important thing with chainsaw chains is that every tooth has to be exactly the same. Not just in the length of the tooth but also all the angles have to be the same.

The trouble with the Dremel one is that you are I imagine are sighting the angles and eventually they will all start to vary. That is why you need a jig.

The 240 volt one I have is an Oregon.

See the pic.

Hi
I only use a file now and do it in the vise. I take at least 4 sharp chains with me in the bush as I can not get a good result with the chain on the bar. The rotary tools sharpen ok but take too much off ans shorten the life of the chain. On the anual service of the saw I get the chains sharpened at the shop to even up the teeth. I have had some rather poor jobs done at some sharpening services over the years. I have scribed lines on top of the vice so I can see the file is at the correct angle. I stop cutting as soon as the chain starts to loose performance and put on a sharp one so they only need about 2 file strokes per tooth. It is also important to square up the edge of the bar with a stone from time to time to keep the cut strait. Most saw manuals show how to do this.
For me the file works as good as anything and is the method I have settled with after trying most of the rest. One last tip is to have a spare sharp file as a file only lasts so long. Toss it when it is not cutting like it should.

Regards
John

TJ, when you say that your saw is cutting off line, how much of the teeth is left?

Done at the mill we have found that once you have used roughly 1/2 to 2/3 of the teeth on the slabber with the skip tooth, the cut starts to wander regardless of what it was sharpened on.

The interesting thing to notice with this is that it only happens with hardwood but not softwood.

One other point that hasn't been mentioned is that another thing that can cause a chain to cut in a circle and jamb is as the teeth are worn down the rakers also need to be filed down.

There is a guage that is available to check the height of the rakers. For this you need a good fine tooth file made especially for this and should be available at any good chainsaw shop.

Originally Posted by djstimber

TJ, when you say that your saw is cutting off line, how much of the teeth is left?

Done at the mill we have found that once you have used roughly 1/2 to 2/3 of the teeth on the slabber with the skip tooth, the cut starts to wander regardless of what it was sharpened on.

The interesting thing to notice with this is that it only happens with hardwood but not softwood.

Good question DJ - without a doubt the skip-tooth slabber I have is stuffed the cutting of a backyard mango a little while back completed stuffed it - nine nails in one slab - a 8mm coach bolt in another - but yes I did push it one more trip out west - this chain is worn out. i have one more spare of this size for slabbing and will get another new one. This one is worn but still slabs okay with a bit of a shudder as the occassional crap tooth bites in. This chain has about 11 links between each cutting tooth so even on the 56"bar there are only about 20 cutting teeth.

The chain that is tracking badly is the chain on the small 36" bar for cross-cutting. I can't even cross cut a small branch or lop a tree as it cuts badly off track. Quickly enough but no direction. There is plenty of life left in this chain.

Before I went away they were supposed to sharpen both chains at service but only did the slabbing chain = so the other chain is the one I had problems with on the smaller bar.

Got out west lined up my redgum and scratched the surface and then smoke - WOW.

Yes I know these shouldn't be allowed to get this blunt but cutting the mango into the root system and then dirt - that day wasn't a pretty day in slabbing.

I am looking at getting another cross cut chain and another slabbing chain so should have two good one's of each for next trip - and one emergency slabbing chain (the one I use now ) it's worn out and done it's day. Just it was brand new before meeting the mango so I had to get one more day from it before retiring it - poor thing - what a day - must have cut through one bolt and about 40-50 nails (some big nails) - criminal - no more suburban backyard trees for me.

Thanks for your reply BW - what sorta money are these 240V one's and where?

Araloon the only problem i have with the file approach is getting them all even to fix the tracking with a file. You can get them sharp and at the right angle but not all even relative to one another that the 240V machines do. Once they are damaged or have uneven wear is there no other way than one of these 240V systems?

If you are cutting out in the bush (or anywhere really) you should learn to sharpen correctly with a hand file. Although you should carry spare chains, to run them till they are blunt and change over is false economy, you can sharpen a chain in the time it takes to change one over and tension it correctly. The time that you are spending cutting with a dull chain is destroying the chain and bar. Ideally you would have a selection of chains both chisel and chipper depending on the conditions and wood.
The cutting teeth should not be allowed to get dull or blunt in the first place, it's better to file a little, often. The best indication is the chips the chain is producuing, as soon as there is a hint a of dust, run the file over the chain. Get yourself a wood vice, a 6" shifter, file guide kit either stihl or oregon etc and have a handful of files (of the appropriate diameter), these are a consumable item, don't perservere with a "blunt" file but do rotate them in the guide as you use them to ensure you get the best use out of them. And remember, files are directional, apply pressure on the stroke, lift away from the tooth on the return otherwise you lay the teeth over and wreck the file.
The first thing to do when sharpening is to inspect the chain, looking for things such as broken or missing teeth, rivets, tie straps etc. Ensure the chain is correctly tensioned (do not re tension a hot chain). On a semi regular basis, you should go along with your little shifter (bush micrometer) and check that all the cutting teeth are the same length, if not find the shortest and take the time to file them all back to this length, this is not as hard as it sounds. Why is this important? Cutting teeth are ramped to allow the heel to kick slightly without lifting the leading edge out of the timber. As the tooth gets shorter it gets lower. If teeth are different heights, they are not all doing their share of the work. This is why the bar will sometimes "steer" to the left or right (one of many reasons it happens). Teeth are alternated left/right, if the teeth on the left or right are sharper or taller, they are the dominant cutting edge and will pull to that side. After sharpening is completed, we must go through with a flat file and our guide and check that all the depth gauges are the same/correct height for the same reason.
How often you sharpen and how many strokes of the file are required will depend on the conditions and the wood, Ideally tho, you should only need around 4 - 6 strokes per tooth to "keep it sharp". If you have the correct guide for the chain, the guide will set your face angle for you. Some chains require a slight tilt of the file, some don't. Check that when the file is against the cutting teeth, it makes contact all the way along the tooth, some people tend to drop the heel as they stroke, losing contact with all but the point and tend to round the tooth or wonder why it feels sharp, but doesn't hold an edge for too long. Remember, you are filing up into the tooth, not down into the gullet, the pressure should be pulling the file up and back to you (slightly). File all left (or right) teeth first from the inside of the tooth to the outside, hop onto the other side of the bar and file all the opposite teeth. You will hear/feel the file if you are doing it correctly. It's like playing pool, just let your arm swing on the elbow/shoulder, don't push the whole arm or you will get off line. Once done, as I said, now check your depth gauges for height.

Now go home and throw out that electric grinder (just joking). They are useful for re setting the teeth periodically but should be used with care, chainsaw shops love em because they chew away a chain fast and you will need to replce them more often. They need to be set at the correct angles obviously and apply very little pressure or you will overheat the teeth quickly and you won't be able to keep an edge (no different to your chisels etc)

I hope that's helpful and sorry it's so long winded but there are a host of variables that can frustrate people when trying to care for their chain.

Bob K

Originally Posted by Barry_White

One other point that hasn't been mentioned is that another thing that can cause a chain to cut in a circle and jamb is as the teeth are worn down the rakers also need to be filed down.

There is a guage that is available to check the height of the rakers. For this you need a good fine tooth file made especially for this and should be available at any good chainsaw shop.

Hmmm - no I haven't been filing down the rackers - should look more closely into this.

The chain is in good condition and has a lt of life left in it though - but will get a guage for this and a file and investigate - thanks again

Originally Posted by TEEJAY

Yes I know these shouldn't be allowed to get this blunt but cutting the mango into the root system and then dirt - that day wasn't a pretty day in slabbing.

TJ, if you are cutting down into roots etc, you might want to consider tungsten tipped chains or even tungsten impregnated chains. I've used both these for various applications. They are expensive to buy, you have to take them to a specialist to get sharpened, they can lose a tip or two if the suddenly strike something but if your going into remote areas and boring down into dirt and roots, they are worth considering for reliability.

Bob K

Bob K,

A lot of good stuff there thanks.

Yes you are right frequent touch ups are the go - but my last day at a mango had the saw blunt and the demel with the wrong size stone (sold to me by the saw shop as the perfect stone) that did more damage than good.

I attempted to rectify this with a professional shapening before the trip - but they didn't touch it (same saw shop - dopey junior given the job). Hence i was in the bush with a blunt saw - sharpened it with file - nice and sharp but wouldn't cut straight.

So here I am trying to get to goods on how to get it right myself before next trip and more than happy to touch up on site with gentle dremel or file - and yes I took 8 files with me and wire brushed the chain clean before sharpening to make the file work best - it do too. But sharp and not straight.

Originally Posted by notenoughtoys

TJ, if you are cutting down into roots etc, you might want to consider tungsten tipped chains or even tungsten impregnated chains. I've used both these for various applications. They are expensive to buy, you have to take them to a specialist to get sharpened, they can lose a tip or two if the suddenly strike something but if your going into remote areas and boring down into dirt and roots, they are worth considering for reliability.

Bob K

Thanks Bob, but I get access to great timber out west and will happy leave backyard stuff to others.

What happening to your finger? - wasn't sharpening a chainsaw was it?

Originally Posted by TEEJAY

What happening to your finger? - wasn't sharpening a chainsaw was it?

Nope, not my finger, I just thought it would be an amusing avatar for a woodies forum.

" There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness" "

He He, my next ddor neighbour has one (a yard full) of those garden trains, I think he has fallen over that line poor bugger