Thread: Chainsawmill running really hot :-(

Funny you should mention that because there are three that I am currently chasing.

Originally Posted by Travis Edwards

Don't know what that pine is only one I know of used for sleepers is Ponderosa pine, But douglas fir (oregon) is generally heavier. 950 kg per cube is about 100kg per cube heavier than Jarrah and 200 to 300 kg heavier per cube than tassie oak or mountain ash.

I don't know where you are getting your data from but air dried Douglas fir density in all the literature I have looked up is around 520 kg/m^3, construction grade radiata is similar at around 480-590, whereas Jarrah is around 820.

Originally Posted by BobL

I don't know where you are getting your data from but air dried Douglas fir density in all the literature I have looked up is around 520 kg/m^3, construction grade radiata is similar at around 480-590, whereas Jarrah is around 820.

I think I can translate that. 820kg/m3 for Jarrah is about 100kg/m3 less than 950kg/m3 for the pine whose name I can't remember from north america. Since the species that get sold as Tassie oak range between ~ 620-750kg/m3 they would be 200 to 300kg/m3 lighter than whatever this pine is that I read about.

Travis has only heard of one pine that they use for sleepers that being Ponderosa pine which is around ADD 400kg/m3 which is considerably less than Oeregon at ~520kg/m3.

Does that make sense?

I've been trying to find the name of that pine and have not had any luck so far but I have found that a lot of the Northern American pines get used or at least have been used as sleepers but they all the ones that I have found so far need to be treated against rot and termites. I'm not sure at what latitudes the have to stop treating for termites I would have thought that the colder temperatures would have done them in. Having said that, knowing the natural world I wouldn't be too surprised to find them in New York State or even Canada.

They say there is no such thing as a stupid question so I ask that you remember that when I ask.....

Sprockets have to match the pitch of the chain that they drive but you don't get sprockets to suit different gauges of chain, right?

The reason that I ask is that I use to have a stack of 3/8 58 gauge chain which is why I got the 60" 58 gauge bar for my mill. This is also why I had the .404 sprocket on my 076 changed to a 3/8 sprocket. With the 076 I got two bars that are 63 gauge bars. Can I get some 3/8 63 gauge chain for my shorter bars and run it with the same sprocket that I use on the 60" 58 gauge bar?

If I have to I will buy a new shorter 58 gauge bar and chain to suit but if I could use the bars I already have and just get some more chain that would suit the budget better.

Originally Posted by weaver

They say there is no such thing as a stupid question so I ask that you remember that when I ask.....

Sprockets have to match the pitch of the chain that they drive but you don't get sprockets to suit different gauges of chain, right?

The reason that I ask is that I use to have a stack of 3/8 58 gauge chain which is why I got the 60" 58 gauge bar for my mill. This is also why I had the .404 sprocket on my 076 changed to a 3/8 sprocket. With the 076 I got two bars that are 63 gauge bars. Can I get some 3/8 63 gauge chain for my shorter bars and run it with the same sprocket that I use on the 60" 58 gauge bar?

If I have to I will buy a new shorter 58 gauge bar and chain to suit but if I could use the bars I already have and just get some more chain that would suit the budget better.

It is generally possible to run the same sprocket for both 63 thou and 58 thou, but what you would probably be better off doing is running a different sprocket or run 404 on the smaller 63 thou bars as that is what they probably originally ran. It shouldnt be that hard to change sprockets and sprockets are a ship load cheaper than bars.

If you read the stihl manual it recommends that the sprocket be replaced with every second chain that you replace and it recommends that you run two chains per sprocket alternately. Personally in my kit I always have a couple of spare sprockets, only takes about 5 minutes to swap them, and I generally toss them when wear gets to about 0.5 mm deep unless I have a still serviceable chain which has been running on that sprocket then that chain and sprocket live their lives out together and the new chains get a new sprocket to run on. But my saw runs an inboard clutch so it is easy to replace the sprocket.

Originally Posted by BobL

I don't know where you are getting your data from but air dried Douglas fir density in all the literature I have looked up is around 520 kg/m^3, construction grade radiata is similar at around 480-590, whereas Jarrah is around 820.

Weaver understood what I was saying Bob and re explained it well.

Originally Posted by Travis Edwards

It shouldnt be that hard to change sprockets and sprockets are a ship load cheaper than bars.

Yes it should be easy but since the clutch nut comes off so easy it is locktighted on. Makes chainging it a little harder.

Originally Posted by weaver

Yes it should be easy but since the clutch nut comes off so easy it is locktighted on. Makes chainging it a little harder.

There are different types of lock tite some will Quite easily resist the amount of vibration you would experience but still be removeable. something I use a lot actually is araldite, it works well and if you want to remove it at any stage you just heat it up to release it, generally a kettle of hot water will do it.better than using something you cannot release when you do have to change a clutch or a sprocket and permanently damaging the crank of your saw.