Thread: Clamping bar tip / new chain break-in

Originally Posted by RedShirtGuy

I'm making an alaskan mill and I'm not sure about a couple of things, and not being particularly familiar with chainsaws, forgive me if these questions are a little newbyish.

Absolutely no problem

The bar (factory) on my Husky 570 has a sprocket in the tip with what seem like studs/dots ever so slightly protruding from both sides of the bar that I guess hold it in place. Is it ok to clamp on those dots or is it going to put pressure on the sprocket?

I wouldn't clamp on a protrusion like those rivets without some sort of corresponding dimple on the clamp face as the saw/mill vibrations may vibrate the clamp off the rivets. By the time you dimple the face clamps you might be touching the bar and put pressure on the sprocket - this is not good.

Have you seen this post? It lists 8 nose holding options. Option numbers 4, 5 7 and 8 are safest.

It also looks like the tip is removable/replaceable. Should I be getting myself a one piece bar instead? (Which might be on the cards anyway for some more length) If I have to clamp on a "clear" piece of the bar I'm going to lose quite a few inches.

Solid nose bars reduce the amount of power going into cutting the wood.

[/QUOTE]As for a new ripping chain; should it be broken in and stretched before I start milling or is it just a case of checking it more often during the early cuts as usual? [/QUOTE]
Yes to the latter.

Thanks for the good advice BobL. That link was quite useful. (Tip to self: use the forum search function more often )

Until I get a new bar I'm thinking I might go with option #7 although #5 (maybe with a tight recess of #4) gives me warm fuzzy feelings of extra safety, and I'm not too fussed about the ease of changing/sharpening chains without pulling everything apart.

Given that my tip is replaceable I might brave drilling through the center of the dimpled area so I can do #5 and if I muck it up I can fix it cheaply (I hope). Is that doable, would you suggest it and is there an appropriate hole/bolt diameter I should aim for? I'll research a bit more and try and find myself some details on the sprocket design to make sure it's got a clear area in the center to do that.

Not sure if you understand but the sprocket in the end of the bar carries the chain around the corner and reduces friction getting the chain around the end. This in turn saves power to drive it - so that is why BobL said you are better with one than without one. If you are pushing the nose of the bar through posts or similar then you need a bar without one.

The method you suggested is exactly how my Alaskin mill attaches to the bar. I clamp it on top of the rivets (tight) and it has never moved yet in the last 12 months since i changed from before the sprocket to on top of the rivets. I use no method of locating to stop it slipping off. Like you i want to get the maximum out of the bar and i now run a 36 or 44 inch bar on a 660 saw.

Hope that helps and enjoy your slabbing.

Cheers

Originally Posted by RedShirtGuy

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Given that my tip is replaceable I might brave drilling through the center of the dimpled area so I can do #5 and if I muck it up I can fix it cheaply (I hope). Is that doable, would you suggest it and is there an appropriate hole/bolt diameter I should aim for? I'll research a bit more and try and find myself some details on the sprocket design to make sure it's got a clear area in the center to do that.

Do a search for drill chainsaw bars and you should pick up something. I use 1/4" High tensile steel bolts, some guys use 3/8"

RE: Sprocket design. If it has rivets it will be clear to drill in the middle.