If it came from Lucas, it'll be Oregon.
Bought some from them myself this week and it was Oregon and for as long as I've know, they've only ever sold Oregon chain
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If it came from Lucas, it'll be Oregon.
Bought some from them myself this week and it was Oregon and for as long as I've know, they've only ever sold Oregon chain
yeah 27RX is oregon designation
Oregon eh, I guess that is why it is cheap? :D
I have not tested 404 chains but of the 3 (Stihl, Oregon and Carlton), 3/8 chains I tested with the hardenss tester at work (over 100 measurements) Oregon was consistently softer than the other two.
I don't have any 404 Gb - I'll have to get me some and test the 404s
I have to admit my next chains will be from Sawchain here on the forum. I don't do a huge amount of slabbing so I go through a chain a year at the moment, but once the house is done that'll change. I have a pile of 'slab' logs up the front which Wifey will want me to 'clean up' so the slabber will be getting a workout.
From everything I've heard and read here on the forum sawchain's Carlton chain seems to be a great chain and I'm willing to give it a whirl.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobL
As stated earlier it was Oregon
Allan you and anyone else is welcome to have a Oregan 27RX from me if you want.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigidi
It is 9.90 per chain foot + postage. just work it out yourself.
There has not been one comment regarding the other picture i put up i thought it would surely have got some opinions??
Cheers
Attachment 108996
Why do you think it should have David?
Just the comments in previous posts regarding file size, angles, rakers etc i thought surely someone here would "know better" than the manufacturer.Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ's Timber
Cheers
Hey David,
I have the Oregon Maintenance and safety manual - around 70 pages of info on chain - it's bloody handy to have as you can check up stuff like the specs on chain, bar numbers, chain numbers, definitions etc. Here's a screen shot showing part of the page for 27RX...
Attachment 108998
Where ya making comment on the warnings for 27RX? I've never used it hand held, only on my Lucas slabber. I'd advocate making skip chains for chainsaws, but not 27RX for chainsaws
What do you reckon?
Allan i cant see the difference between a lucas mill and a alaskin mill - it is only the pawerhead that varies.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigidi
I have made up a 27RX for my alaskin mill. I had a 27RA skip tooth chain that i used on the 44 inch bar, for that big Silky in Queensland and found it bogged the saw down so i have now got the 27RX - i havent used it yet but wouldnt bother if the log wasnt at least 700mm diameter. For smaller than that i can use the 36 inch bar and 3/8 chain 27RA, the saw pulls that easily in dry Blackwood so cant see any reason to go with less teeth.
I also do cross cut work with the 36inch bar and 27RA 3/8 chain - cuts really well for falling trees etc.
Cheers
You're right about an Alaskan and a Lucas, basically the same animal just different legs.
I have to admit the few times I've used the 27RX on smaller logs for slabbing, it seems to muck around a bit due to the lower number of teeth - seems to 'hit' backward and forward on a smaller log as there seems to be one set of teeth engaged at a time.
I've not used it on my husky as the only time I have it is in lengths made for the slabber so I then would have to get the shop to break it and re join a smaller loop to suit my 372 - too much hassle. Just easier for me to use crosscut chain on the husky.
You think it has the difficulties mentioned in the manual for use on a chainsaw? admittedly kickback potential is large if someone is trying to do a mortise or something with plunge cuts, but you think the warning is more a liability covering statement?
I would not use or recommend anyone else to use any skip tooth chain if 2 or more sets of teeth were not in the log at the same time. You are right it is just asking for trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigidi
The idea of skip tooth is to save horsepower so the motor doesnt bog down - smaler logs shouldnt need skip tooth chain for this reason.
Cheers
I disagree with one piece of the Oregon data. They only provide one raker height of 0.030. What this does as the chain wears is to make the chain cut at an decreasing cutting angle till the chain eventually makes more dust than chips and starts to cut very slowly so users will throw their chains away too early and buy new ones. The raker depth should be increased to maintain a constant cutting angle not a constant raker depth. By the time a 404 cutter is nearly worn out it would not be unreasonable to see a 0.060" raker depth.Quote:
Originally Posted by Calm
The other reason they probably do this is it is probably too tricky to explain this to the average user and some idiot will try and make the rakers 0.060 when the chain is new and then wonder why his saw doesn't cut or injure themselves in the process.
BTW I thought there should be 3 skip teeth in a log at any one time?
The .030" depth gauge height is from the cutter down to the depth gauge ( raker ), so as the tooth is worn away from filing so should the depth gauge be reduced by filing, so the cutter is at its optimum .030" max' cut.
regards inter
Sure I understand that, but that is still not providing optimum cutting. What cuts the wood is an optimum cutting angle not a fixed raker depth, even if it is relative to the top of the cutter.Quote:
Originally Posted by InterTD6
Think of a chisel cutting across the grain. If the chisel is too steep it will not cut because it is trying to take too deep a cut. Likewise If it is too shallow you will make less chips and more powder.
To maintain optimum chip making the cutting angle is what is important. So as the gullet is filed out the distance between the cutter and the raker increases. To maintain a constant raker angle the rakers should be dropped even further than 0.030 below the cutters.
This has been discussed and debated ad nauseum here and on the Arboriste Site. The people who really understand how chain really works know all about this. The Carlton chain book describes this briefly and the explain how to cope with this using their filoplate. I set my rakers with a digital vernier caliper.
Stihl and Oregon are interested in selling chain so they won't tell you this.