Thread: Drying Red Gum

Definitely let it dry completely before cutting to size.

For something like a guitar I would seal the entire surface with end-check not paint as it can get into the cracks and then you have to cut all cracks out.

I make my own end-check out of parafin (candle) wax and turps, melt the wax and add 4 parts turps and then paint it on warm.

Ideally it should be painted on within minutes of it being milled.

Your time line is pretty right. The slower it dries the better. I dry a lot of Sydney bluegum. 6-12months air dry then slow kiln then air dry for another 3months depending on season. Its a bit of mucking about but the end result is worth the trouble. Very stable and hardly any down grade.

Thanks Rusty and Bob,
Thanks also for the end check tip Bob.

I made a type of end check up a few months back ,First time I have tried it and did not know what to use, it was just a 20 lt drum with the top cut off, 20mm melted beeswax in the bottom, I was dipping the ends of 1000 x 100 x 4 Blackwood in .

A strong beeswax smell was rising.

I looked up and I had two highly alert bees in the work shop checking me out from a distance of about 600 mm each, they were doing high revs [ wings] and zig zaging adjusting viewing positions.
No great shock , I like them.
Pick them up all the time and would go out of my way to help one,


Parafin is possibly cheaper than beeswax as well ? I dont know,
But will give it a try.


Rob

Hi there guys.

I use Caltex Timber sealer, about $100 for a 20ltr drum. Have been using it for about 15 years with no problems, even for musical instrument billets. I have a couple of large quarter sawn, highly figured redgum billets that have been milled for 10 years plus if you want to experiment on the resawing. Also have some musical instrument grade true fiddleback redgum in 200mm wide boards, 27 and 40mm thick, quarter sawn, milled 2009.

If you are resawing specifically for guitars, you may choose to cut 27-30mm boards, as this will provide two clean sets, allowing for sanding, etc. This will reduce your drying time to 1 1/2 years.

The slower you dry the timber, the better the result generally, but you are correct on your estimations.

Feel free to give me a PM if you interested or want any more info.
Cheers
James

Originally Posted by auscab

Thanks Rusty and Bob,
Thanks also for the end check tip Bob.
Parafin is possibly cheaper than beeswax as well ? I dont know,
But will give it a try.

Unless you can find a private source of beeswax, paraffin wax is much cheaper.